No personal experience, but I think there's a product called catacleen, or something like that, supposed to actually work. I'm not usually one for the snake oil remedies, but might be worth a try.
If just replacing bearings and not regearing pinion depth should just be put back the same depth as long as it was done correctly in the first place. I'll echo to follow the service manual, and take your time. It's not hard it's a process.
Should be able to just unbolt it from the firewall and move it aside. If that's not enough room keeping the hose higher than the engine once removed from tank should keep the fluid in there. If you're due for a coolant flush might as well, but if not... Don't waste time and money.
Second on...
I have a thread on her titled DIY-PCV-TSB, or something to that effect. It shows how I did it by placing a spring inside the hose so it won't collapse when flexed.
It's a doable job with enough patience and tools. You'll have to pull the carrier which means pulling the axles as well. Resetting the carrier preload also requires a special tool not many have in the garage. I regeared mine in my driveway, but I bought a bunch of tools I may never use again...
It is not. It's very specific in the directions that you should be able to read the read it from the top. The 2 mounts at the body are angled to sit closer to flat.
Pull the diff, and while it's out take a look at engine mounts, rack bushings, and oil pan (if you're in a rust prone area. These things are easier to deal with when the diff is out. Creative steel has your rack and diff bushings.
I'm running nearly the same setup and I don't feel it's too stiff. How long have you had the new setup? Maybe it needs to settle in a bit. Were the suspension components tightened after Jeep was back on its own weight. Having torn bushing on uca will definitely be felt. I'm running the Iron Rock...
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