Recent content by Verification

Good idea but I don't have anything to make those bends. Would silicone along the bottom to seal it up work to prevent crap from getting trapped after new ones are on?

I will be replacing the rockers soon. Any ideas on how to make them not rot? Horrible original design

It was the driveshaft going into the transfer case not the cv joint half shaft. $500 fix

I just drove to the shop to have them look at it tomorrow. No noise when turning or accelerating but comes on suddenly and increases until I almost stop. This is going slow as it is. The noise sounds like something is going to snap if I keep going. I could say it's like a missing large ball...

I checked every ball joint and bushing. The noise also happens up and down driveway. The cv joint to front diff has play and sounds bad. Not sure why it acted up on mild bumbs though. Going into the shop Friday to have them check it out and order the proper parts. I don't have the proper tools...

I've had this 2002 for a month or so. As far as I remember, it always had a cable stretching ratcheting sound after shifting into drive or reverse. According to many threads on noise, I thought this was normal. The other day, I heard some heavy gear meshing sounds. This seemed to happen over...

Yes 2002. What do you mean by "prelowered build date"? I get 18 3/4" in front and 19" rear mid axle to bottom of wheel well. My suspension must have been done before.

Had these put on today for some off road fun. Didn't get a chance to use them off road yet. Highway, they are quiet and smooth. In town, a bit bouncy. They are 245/70/16's on factory suspension with no rubbing. I would have preferred BFGoodrich KO2's normally but they would have been a tad...

I get 18 3/4" front 19" rear 233000km No Idea if or when it was last done

The rear door rod appears broken at the pivot point near the latch. Probably from the the child being mysteriously re-engaged and buddy pulling too hard. The dash lights might have been a blown fuse which I replaced. Hard to tell until dark. Driver door lock remains a mystery.

2002. Not sure if it matters that much. The wires are impossible to reach from any angle. I did read that aftermarket stereos often don't have the wire to tap into the dash/dimmer. Maybe?? The rear window control is a mystery. I'm going to check out the service manual if it's free.

Transplanted a stereo system with amp and sub. My luck started with drilling through the firewall. I thought I was certain where the bit was going to end up. Saw sparks and Jeep couldn't start. Narrowed it down to changing the ignition fuse under the hood. The wires under the brake booster are...

Yeah, that's what I did. Any tips to making threading wire through the back grommets easier? Nothing easy about running new wires. I don't have to remove the seatbelt torx to access the wires, do I?

Thanks. It's the infinity speakers with the small amp built on. Jeep is a 2002 Liberty. I was hoping someone has done the splicing successfully. I went ahead and ran new wires to the front doors and hope its easier doing the back. I'm installing an Mtx x504 with 200w, a cheap Chinese made deck...

I've been through many google pages for an answer of how to manually jumper the amp wires. I can't even reach the door grommet hole for a new wire. There must be a way to jumper the factory amp wires so the speakers work. This happened on the right side and want to do the same on the left...