Jeebus everytime I read this kind of stuff it makes me not want to get a lift.
Rumbling noise and severe vibrations
- Thread starter KCJeep
- Start date
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Jeebus everytime I read this kind of stuff it makes me not want to get a lift.
JeepJeepster
Full Access Member
U joints are probably one of the cheapest drive line components to replace. I would hope for those to go bad before anything else.. Mine are fine with a lift..
ThunderbirdJunkie
Bronze Supporter
ptsb5a
Full Access Member
The last set I bought are greaseable and seem to be wearing much better than the first two sets of sealed u-joints. I pump fresh grease through them after every off road trip and at every oil change.
What has science done. Thomas Dolby would be proud!! Not that he had much to do with u-joints, it was just a cool song I remember from a brit tv show.
What has science done. Thomas Dolby would be proud!! Not that he had much to do with u-joints, it was just a cool song I remember from a brit tv show.
KCJeep
New Member
The vibrations are coming from the rear and the Dealer said that they will go over it again if I bring it back with the rear control arms replaced and it still vibrates like that. They said it is because the rear tires are worn square with the bad bushings causing the up and down motion on the back left arm mount at the axle. I took it to another shop and they said the same thing. They replaced the rear differential pinion seal it was leaking not the front one and they said they did not see anything wrong with it. The two front axle seals were replaced even though only the one on the right was leaking but they did both. I know it does not feel right and they must be missing something for it to be that bad but I let air out of the rear tires and the vibrations are not as harsh as they were. It only happens when braking and cosating not when on the accelerator. The edges of the rear tires are quite knobby and I can see it happening but I just do not feel right about it. I am all about the western states area and do not have all the time in the world to get this done and usually have to wire money to the account as I get paid so the wife can get it done and I know dealers see women as saps so I tell her what she must say and do and to ignore what they suggest or call me while yapping with them or wait till I get to see it.
All I can do is what they said but they also want me to replace the rear tires so that is a lot of money up front with those and arms and will take some time. I got control arms to pick up tomorrow I got a set for 110.00 with 28,000 miles on them. I will fill them with urethane if I can find it and maybe repair the old ones with bushings and resell. There is a lot of up-down movement on the driver side bushing at the axle so wee will see and the dealer just better adhere to their word with the deductible when I get this done and if it still happens.
Are they easy to replace?
ThunderbirdJunkie
Bronze Supporter
Yes.
And if you don't want big dog height that will be easier on parts, don't add extra stuff beyond just OME springs/new shocks. You don't HAVE to be sitting at 24" from the hub to the flare if you don't want to.
And if you don't want big dog height that will be easier on parts, don't add extra stuff beyond just OME springs/new shocks. You don't HAVE to be sitting at 24" from the hub to the flare if you don't want to.
KCJeep
New Member
Did what the dealer said and gotta tell ya, the arms taken off were no worse than the used ones that were put on they had 28,000 miles on them the wrecker said. I got tires put on too and so it went back to the dealer and had her make the supervisor drive it and what do you know he said there is a problem. I personally think it is in the transfer case hearing where the rear shaft is driven from. So it goes back to the dealer Monday and who knows how long they will have it but she gets a rental. No more Chrysler product for me, ever. They way they handled this was bad making me spend money for their satisfaction before they can start troubleshooting a problem they were told about the first time. It was not the trailing arms and it was not the tires and they made me get those replaced in order to proceed. So I will not buy another one of their cars because of this bad service and refusal to listen to what their customers tell them.
tjkj2002
Full Access Member
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Could you find the exact problem yourself? No you couldn't.Certain types of noises and vibs can be very hard to find,and yes they had every right to eliminate possible issues 1st and at your cost since they spotted a issue that could lead to a noise and vibs and that should have been explained to you.You could have several issues and not just one.Being a tech I have to tread lightly with issues like these and must have the customer fix any and all issues that I find that might be causing there issue(only if a fault is found on multiple parts),there is no way around it.
ThunderbirdJunkie
Bronze Supporter
Couldn't have said it better ThunderbirdJunkie's self, Troy.
Would also like to add:
Chrysler dealerships are NOT owned by Chrysler, so don't blame the dealership for any perceived lack of talent, since it is NOT Chrysler's fault, even IF the Chrysler dealership were in the wrong (which they are not).
Would also like to add:
Chrysler dealerships are NOT owned by Chrysler, so don't blame the dealership for any perceived lack of talent, since it is NOT Chrysler's fault, even IF the Chrysler dealership were in the wrong (which they are not).
Even though I don't hate to agree with TJkj on this one, I have to.
It does come down to a process of elimination. Unfortunately with so many parts that wear,after years and mileage, sooner or later you will have one that is not easy to diagnose with a parts junk bin getting larger.
The dealer also could not find what was wrong after 2 free inspections, when it was my lower control arm bushings that was causing the jeep's torque drift. It was only through the forum here, that the problem was identified and repaired.
I also know when I do the lift, I will also have to do the upper ball joint on the rear upper tri-link, and inspect the bushings up there as well.
Hope the dealer is able to help you and finally get to the bottom of it.
Please post back what happens....
It does come down to a process of elimination. Unfortunately with so many parts that wear,after years and mileage, sooner or later you will have one that is not easy to diagnose with a parts junk bin getting larger.
The dealer also could not find what was wrong after 2 free inspections, when it was my lower control arm bushings that was causing the jeep's torque drift. It was only through the forum here, that the problem was identified and repaired.
I also know when I do the lift, I will also have to do the upper ball joint on the rear upper tri-link, and inspect the bushings up there as well.
Hope the dealer is able to help you and finally get to the bottom of it.
Please post back what happens....
bigBlue
Full Access Member
That is exactly what JEEP told me, after I had 3 shops tell me it was bad bearings....THEY WERE ALL WRONG.
bigBlue
Full Access Member
my problem was a bump, bump, bump noise around 45 mph that increased in frequency if i was going faster and was slower if i was going slow (sounded like i had a flat tire or i was riding on the berm off the side of the road). I checked everything, bearings, UCA's, rear bushings...nothin....spent alot of money checking what the dealer and auto shops said was the problem.
Jeep wanted to replace my front hub bearings cause that was 100% the problem (so they said)....it was only gonna cost me $1300.....F-that
So i checked the R CV. I pulled into a wall mart plaza, parked next to a 4x4 liberty, and compared his CV motion to mine (gotta be stealthy). My R CV had much more play, and actually made a knocking sound when i pushed up and down on it.
I replaced the Intermediate axle (eric sells them on this forum) for $72 and put in a remanned CV from Napa for $65 + core charge.
PROBLEM FIXED.....NO MORE KNOCKING NOISE WHEN I BREAK, COAST OR DRIVE
Check the CV's (i'm only stressing this, because i didnt read anywhere on this thread that you actually pulled the CV out of the shaft and checked the grooves on the axle)
Jeep wanted to replace my front hub bearings cause that was 100% the problem (so they said)....it was only gonna cost me $1300.....F-that
So i checked the R CV. I pulled into a wall mart plaza, parked next to a 4x4 liberty, and compared his CV motion to mine (gotta be stealthy). My R CV had much more play, and actually made a knocking sound when i pushed up and down on it.
I replaced the Intermediate axle (eric sells them on this forum) for $72 and put in a remanned CV from Napa for $65 + core charge.
PROBLEM FIXED.....NO MORE KNOCKING NOISE WHEN I BREAK, COAST OR DRIVE
Check the CV's (i'm only stressing this, because i didnt read anywhere on this thread that you actually pulled the CV out of the shaft and checked the grooves on the axle)
BjBnet
Full Access Member
I took my whole front end apart and I have alot of play too on that side especially with the LCA disconnected.
I thought it would cost alot more than that, thanks for keeping us updated!!(bowdown)
KCJeep
New Member
It was the rear universal joints on the rear shaft. I will not accept the "It does come down to a process of elimination." statement when they were right there! They were right at the rear pinion seal and didn't notice it before? They can't be that stupid right? They had to remove the rear shaft to repair the pinion seal so they should have noticed that "bind up" when they were removing and or putting the shaft back on. I told them it was coming from the rear differential area but they they made replace items before they would look at it again. Those items did not need replaced to say it was the universal joints to be right in the area at the first repair. I know what bad control arms would do and not what it was doing but we the customer are always stupid to an elven year certified mechanic. Sorry to say that I work on vehicles and have to with a big truck so I think I have some whits about me to know there is a problem and it is not the damn tires! In any case it is repaired and I did not have to pay a second deductible but I am out almost $300.00 on parts I did not need so I may just sell the railing arms I took off on Ebay or something.
05Sport
Full Access Member
Just had this same exact problem. It was the rear most u-joint. 68.00 replaced as i don't have the time or space to work on it. What an awful sound. Thought i was riding on those rumble strips on the shoulder of the road.
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