Rear Tone Ring for ABS Sensor

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wlfpck

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I have a 2006 Jeep liberty in which there is an ABS sensor for each wheel in the rear. My ESP, trac control, and ABS light are all on. I took it to the shop and they scanned it and the code indicated the ABS sensor in the rear passenger side was bad. I replaced that and the lights are still on.

The new code (don't remember what it was) according to the shop indicated that the Tone Ring is damaged/needs to be replaced.

I checked Rockauto and found 2 different tone rings... unfortunately the description is not good enough to determine which I need. And the photo is the generic black and white sketch.

I managed to find the part 04384226 on a Mopar parts site that seems to be the tone ring I need. However, in the parts diagram of the rear axle, it doesn't show where this part would go.

Does anyone know how I go about replacing this? Any photos/youtube videos/guides/etc. would be greatly appreciated.
 

timg

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Did this a month ago when I needed to replace an axle shaft with a pitted bearing surface. I transferred the tone ring from the old axle to the new axle. The tone ring is pressed onto the axle shaft. Before doing this I'd make sure that the tone ring is actually damaged. It's not a 30 minute job, more like a couple of hours. You'll need an axle bearing puller if you're planning to replace the seal and bearing (which I would do if you're going to be pulling the axle).

After securely raising the rear of the jeep, you need to:
1. drain the rear diff oil (remove most of the fluid with a fluid remover through the fill hole if you don't like messy, or just let it fall out when you pull the cover in step 2)
2. pull the diff cover and clean off all the old gasket from the cover and the diff (you're going to need a new gasket or gasket maker to reinstall)
3. remove the pinion shaft retaining bolt and the pinion shaft and keep it in a clean place (careful when removing the retaining bolt because the pinion shaft is heavy and will slide out on it's own if the diff is in the right position, and you don't want it sliding out onto the floor and being damaged)
4. remove rear tire
5. remove rear brake caliper (hang out of the way with a bungee)
6. remove rear brake rotor
7. now you can push the axle in about 1/2 inch (be careful not to damage the abs sensor. the axle shaft can make contact with it when you push in)
8. remove axle c clip inside the diff (it should drop right out, you might spin it around til it does. if it doesn't then the axle isn't pushed in far enough)
9. pull the axle out of the housing (careful with the seal if you plan to reuse it) at this point you should check the surface where the bearing rides. if there is pitting, you should replace the axle. you might even find an axle with the tone ring already pressed (check a wrecking yard). my new axle did not have one.
10. if you're in this far, you may as well replace the bearing and seal (you can get a "repair" bearing that has a bearing sandwiched between two seals, they come as one unit. If you look down the axle housing you'll see a bunch of rust and junk, and the inner seal's job is to keep that stuff out of the new bearing. be sure to use proper grease on the bearing, and a thin coat on the seals will help prevent seal damage)
11. also check the condition of the e brake shoes with the axle off. sometimes the friction surface de-laminates from the shoes and can be left banging around inside the rotor. replace them if needed. this is the best time to do an e-brake service because the axle is out of the way and it will be a million times easier. I'll leave it up to you if you only change one side and not the other, although I don't think it's a good idea to only do one.
12. now, get a propane torch and heat the old tone ring. (Note the position of the ring on the shaft, because you'll want to match the new ring's position to this pretty exactly in terms of how far down it is pressed on.) It should eventually change color, probably will look a little blue greenish. Takes about 20 minutes with a propane torch. heat it evenly all around, and direct the flame at the ring and not the shaft. When it's good and hot, take a pry bar or big screw driver and lever the ring off the shaft all around the circumference until it's free of the shaft and can be pulled off (with pliers cause it's hot!)
13. heat the new tone ring (propane torch or throw it in the oven at 450 for 10-20 minutes)
14. drop the tone ring onto the shaft, and gently tap around the circumference until the position matches that of the old one.
15. spray it down with some wd40 to cool it off. it will shrink fit onto the shaft as it cools
16. reinstall everything in reverse (don't forget the diff oil. two quarts of 75W90 I believe)

hope this helps, and I hope I didn't forget a step :)
Tim
 
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timg

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I'll add to this that, if you've gone through all this trouble to pull one shaft out, you should just pull the other, especially if you're planning to replace the bearing on the one side and you've already rented the bearing puller. Get two bearings and seals, two new e brake service kits and shoes, and just do it all. It will only add maybe an hour to do both sides. Also it's a great time to check the disc brake pads and get new ones in there if needed. If you've never replaced drum brake shoes before, take a picture of the e brakes before you take them apart! It's a good idea to read up on drum brakes before doing this, because they do require adjustment after install to work properly.
 

wlfpck

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@timg

Appreciate the help. This is what I was afraid of. :( Was hoping it was going to be easier to get to or there was a hub I didn't see or something. :(

Unfortunately the HoA is super strict and will not be happy about me doing this kind of work in my driveway. Can't pull it into the garage either since the garage is filled.

I'm thinking maybe it's easier to just start with a new axle shaft? Just press on a new ring, pull old axle, put new one in with new bearings, done?


Seems like autozone has a couple:

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/axle-shaft/dorman-axle-shaft-630-319/312864_0_12552

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain...xle-axle-shaft-21038/434960_0_0?checkfit=true

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/axle-shaft/usa-standard-gear-axle-shaft-35010/471376_510078_6064
 

timg

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If you have the money, I'd replace the axle with new. You'd be able to press the new ring on with the jeep not taken apart, and eliminate pulling off the old ring, saving some time. If you skipped doing the e brakes, I bet you could swap axles in about an hour. If you chocked the wheels, drained your rear diff, took the cover off, and removed the pinion shaft before raising the vehicle, no-one would probably know :). Your jeep would need to be raised with the tire off for the least amount of time possible. Be sure to get your hands on a good axle bearing puller. Trying to use any other kind of puller will frustrate you and waste your time. A bearing puller will pop the bearing put with a few good whacks.

I bought this axle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U90TM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's cheaper than the ones you posted, good reviews and good reputation, and I immediately put 3000 miles on it on a trip to northern canada, with no problems. The bearings and seals I got locally from Napa. I went with the $30 bearings but they have a $10 version, and also the repair bearing I mentioned if you're not able to clean the junk out of your axle housing.
 

timg

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I did forget a step actually...you'll need to install some new lug studs on the new axle!
I do this with a big 1/2 inch washer, a deep impact socket, a standard lug nut (not acorn), and some grease. You need a lug nut that is flat, not tapered or ball, to sit against the washer. I'm sure you see where this is going...

Place the lug in the hole, lubricate the threads and both sides of the washer, place the washer and then the nut on it, and impact it until the stud bottoms out. take the nut and washer off, and repeat. Be sure to clean the grease off the studs when you're done!
 

wlfpck

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@timg Thanks for the help! Will be getting the jeep back up and running this weekend. Going to definitely try and do the ebrake while I'm at it. No sense in not doing it. It's crazy how little support the KJ gets from aftermarket and even by Jeep themselves.

Glad this forum is here. :D
 

wlfpck

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So... wanted to give an update since there's a lot of threads where the OP never responds.

Didn't have time to deal with it due to a couple projects that came up at work so dropped it off at an independent shop. They replaced the ABS sensor again. The lights stayed off but ABS would engage anytime the brakes were used. They replaced the ABS sensor again and it worked. Issues resolved.

Apparently there was a bad batch of ABS sensors? Either way... didn't have to touch the tone ring.
 

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