Doomed?

[mmc757]

05 Limited...
167K...
F-ing cold outside, just started driving less than 2 minutes prior

Getting on the highway this weekend, accelerating on the ramp, transmission disengages...like it went into neutral.

Coasted to the side, shifted into Park, then back into D again. Engaged normally, no issues since then.

Should I start looking for a new trans now, or chalk it up to cold oil and normal wear and tear?

 

[waywardtravel]

05 Limited...
167K...
F-ing cold outside, just started driving less than 2 minutes prior

Getting on the highway this weekend, accelerating on the ramp, transmission disengages...like it went into neutral.

Coasted to the side, shifted into Park, then back into D again. Engaged normally, no issues since then.

Should I start looking for a new trans now, or chalk it up to cold oil and normal wear and tear?

Last trans service/flush?
My two cents, trans fluid and flush but the cold is making it show it's face.
I'm pretty sure F-ing cold is about 10 below as I haven't been below 65F in about five years and that was F-N cold at that time.

 

[LibertyTC]

When cold out I normally allow jeep to warm up to where the temp is above the one quarter line or around 140 degrees before driving.
Check the ATF+4 transmission fluid level after driving for 30 minutes, in Neutral,level surface. You may be a bit low on fluid?
Next is as stated, when was the ******'s last dealer service??? New fluid and filter may be required.

 

[Dave]

Maybe the cold weather? It is 20 below.

Dave

 

[rockymountain]

Letting it sit and idle doesn't warm up the transmission. As far as the transmission goes it is the same whether you let it warm up or not.

 

[LibertyFever]

I noticed this past weekend that my Libby's transmission wasn't shifting normally. I chalked it up to not being warmed up enough since it was minus 17 C outside. No surprise that it turned over a bit slow but at least the power steering pump didn't howl.

You really know it's cold when your tires develop flat spots on the bottom.

Today it was minus 22 C most of the day. I was smart enough to stay indoors, maybe I will until spring

 

[mmc757]

Thx for the input all.
I tried to just do an oil change on the trans about a month ago but had the wrong filter so still need to redo that again. I guess I should just bite the bullet and spring for the flush.
Havent had a chance to check the level while warm since starting this post, but will check it this afternoon.

Does anyone have knowledge of how shops actually do the flush? I have to assume there is a special attachment that bolts up somehow but Im curious about the specifics.
Not trying to do it myself, as Im sure a massive amount of oil would be necessary, just interested.

 

[diyman]

mmc757

I'm sure i saw a TSB from Chrysler stating that flushes should be avoided. Pan drop is OK.

My two cents, how comes tech screwed up the filter ? First that comes to mind is if they used a VLP filter
on a non VLP 42RLE or vice versa. Not sure if they'd fit/work anyway. Mine is a non VLP.
Sure they used ATF+4 ? O'ring properly changed/installed ? Just wondering...

Electrical issue?

 

[mmc757]

mmc757

I'm sure i saw a TSB from Chrysler stating that flushes should be avoided. Pan drop is OK.

My two cents, how comes tech screwed up the filter ? First that comes to mind is if they used a VLP filter
on a non VLP 42RLE or vice versa. Not sure if they'd fit/work anyway. Mine is a non VLP.
Sure they used ATF+4 ? O'ring properly changed/installed ? Just wondering...

Electrical issue?

Advance Auto sold me the wrong filter. Once I got the pan off, and saw that it was wrong, I didnt have any way to get back to the store to return, so I put the old filter back on again. Not ideal, I know, but I was stuck between a rock and a hard place.
Used ATF+4. Dont remember which brand off the top of my head, but it was on the approved list.
O-ring looked good.

Ill look into the possible TSB and if thats the case then Ill redo the oil change now that I have the right filter and go from there. Been putting it off just due to the busyness of life and the crappy weather.

 

[diyman]

Been there done that.... I know how it feels when your vehicle is disassembled and You need a part :favorites68:

Anyway, if You'll be redoing the job, change the o-ring by installing it correctly flush on the inlet, even if it looks ok.

BTW, I know, I know, it's 'o-ring' not o'ring....there is no such place in Ireland :happy175: rollinglaugh.gif

 

[mmc757]

Plenty of "OH!" rings though!

 

[mmc757]

Update:
I ended up adding another quart of ATF and that seemed to fix it up for a few months, but the problem has returned and seems to be getting worse.
I'm going to get off my A__ and redo the oil change again and get the new filter installed...Hope it works, I'd rather not have to replace the transmission.

 

[fullmetalone]

Why would a flush not be okay? Flush with a filter change would completely change all of the ATF in the transmission...

 

[SabaII]

Why would a flush not be okay? Flush with a filter change would completely change all of the ATF in the transmission...

There is all sorts of info out there on why you should/shouln't completely flush a trans ever. Some people claim it will damage internal components but I personally do not see how as the machines I have seen in use, use no pressure at all. I think it will just always be one of those things that Technician A says its okay and Technician B says its not okay. Personally I have never seen any negative affects. If someone has please post because I would like to hear about it. Also NEVER flush or service a trans that has dark burnt fluid.

 

[fullmetalone]

most auto transmissions that have many miles on them without a fluid change will have very dark/burnt fluid..Many vehicles don't have serviceable filters....

 

[Bulli]

It may be that if you are losing fluid(ATF+4) that your torque converter seal may be leaking. That causes hydrolic pressure drop in the transmission wich plays havoc with the valve body and clutches.
Check for a oil leak between your motor and transmission, and if its red you have a torque converter seal leaking or even a trans pump o-ring.

Does it change gears hard? or flaring between gears?

 

[mmc757]

Dont think I'm losing fluid, I think I just didnt add enough to begin with when I did the initial change.
Once its moving, its fine. Shifts smoothly, all is well. Sometimes when coming to a stop though, it doesnt seem to want to shift from neutral into go. So we step on the gas and dont move. After waiting a few seconds, (and letting off the gas) it kicks hard into gear and goes with a sudden jerk and bang.
Seems to go away once its warmed up.

 

[SabaII]

Dont think I'm losing fluid, I think I just didnt add enough to begin with when I did the initial change.
Once its moving, its fine. Shifts smoothly, all is well. Sometimes when coming to a stop though, it doesnt seem to want to shift from neutral into go. So we step on the gas and dont move. After waiting a few seconds, (and letting off the gas) it kicks hard into gear and goes with a sudden jerk and bang.
Seems to go away once its warmed up.

Yeah thats def not right. Good way to break something else like a u-joint or worse. I would have that checked out. Your just going to add to the problem if that keeps going on.

 

[Bulli]

Dont think I'm losing fluid, I think I just didnt add enough to begin with when I did the initial change.
Once its moving, its fine. Shifts smoothly, all is well. Sometimes when coming to a stop though, it doesnt seem to want to shift from neutral into go. So we step on the gas and dont move. After waiting a few seconds, (and letting off the gas) it kicks hard into gear and goes with a sudden jerk and bang.
Seems to go away once its warmed up.

Mine is doing the exact same thing. We diagnosed it as the transmission pump o-ring and torque converter seal thats leaking.
It all boils down to oil pressure in the valve body and converter.

Please, if you put it in drive and it does not want to pull off, dont keep your foot on the gas. All you do is burning the clutches that does not have enough oil pressure to engage. put the ****** back in park, turn the key off and start the jeep again, 9outa 10 times the transmission then have enough pressure to engage the cluthes.

On the mopar site if you search trans parts they have a very good illustration of the seal, pump and o'ring.

 

[mmc757]

Changed the oil and filter today. So far so good...