fastcarsspeed
Full Access Member
Ok so it is a 42RLE but what is the difference between 3 or 4 wire versions? I am noticing a difference in cost is the reason I am asking. Looks like the 4 wire is in more abundance and cheaper lol.
05 stuck in reverse
- Thread starter fastcarsspeed
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
JeepinJarhead03
Full Access Member
it should have a mil code if the transmission itself bound up at anypoint, its 1776
the crd's have a 545RFE which is basically a 45RFE with an additional OD. otherwise, pan, filters etc are identical to the 45RFE your bolt counts correct
45RFE was used in gas KJ's up until the 3rd month of production for the 2003 model IIRC then was phased out for 42RLE
it sounds like the shifter interlock/brake interlock cable(s) bound up and in jamming around with it the prev. owner bound up the key as well instead of taking the fascia off of the shifter and releasing the interlock for the shifter, putting it in park, then releasing the interlock for the key and getting them back into alignment they just jacked around with it till they got the key out heh
stumpr does a decent job of explaining both systems here's a video he did when his did it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDH91kEbl4I&t=301s
the crd's have a 545RFE which is basically a 45RFE with an additional OD. otherwise, pan, filters etc are identical to the 45RFE your bolt counts correct
45RFE was used in gas KJ's up until the 3rd month of production for the 2003 model IIRC then was phased out for 42RLE
it sounds like the shifter interlock/brake interlock cable(s) bound up and in jamming around with it the prev. owner bound up the key as well instead of taking the fascia off of the shifter and releasing the interlock for the shifter, putting it in park, then releasing the interlock for the key and getting them back into alignment they just jacked around with it till they got the key out heh
stumpr does a decent job of explaining both systems here's a video he did when his did it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDH91kEbl4I&t=301s
JeepinJarhead03
Full Access Member
as for the 3 wire vs 4 wire , the 4 wire is the VLP that came in 2006
look on the drivers side of the transmission, do you see 3 wires, or is there 4
laying looking dead at the side of the drivers side of the transmission, youll see the shift cable linkage, going left to right, looks kind of like a window strut on your back glass
call that the horizion, there will be
a plug above the horizon to the left (cigar diameter black plug - straight in)
a plug above the horizion to the right (cigar diameter black plug - straight in)
a plug below the horizion center (usually yellowish/bright color connector with safety catch orange plugged straight down)
that's a 3 wire non-vlp 42RLE for 2005 and prior
look on the drivers side of the transmission, do you see 3 wires, or is there 4
laying looking dead at the side of the drivers side of the transmission, youll see the shift cable linkage, going left to right, looks kind of like a window strut on your back glass
call that the horizion, there will be
a plug above the horizon to the left (cigar diameter black plug - straight in)
a plug above the horizion to the right (cigar diameter black plug - straight in)
a plug below the horizion center (usually yellowish/bright color connector with safety catch orange plugged straight down)
that's a 3 wire non-vlp 42RLE for 2005 and prior
Last edited:
JeepinJarhead03
Full Access Member
being a 2005 i feel very safe saying that's exactly what youll see on the drivers side of the transmission, being a non - vlp (3 wire) 42RLE
and jeep can always run the vin for you and double.triple check or you can take photos and post for quadrouple check
and jeep can always run the vin for you and double.triple check or you can take photos and post for quadrouple check
fastcarsspeed
Full Access Member
Wow thanks for the information. I am thinking the same thing. There are no Cells as I was able to jack the rear end up and start it jumping the starter relay. It is at the top of a very steep driveway so my concern is the old guy just put it in park and then set the e brake which can put an awful lot of strain on a transmission. Are there any solenoids that would lock it into gear based off of the interlock and the brake? My plan is below.
1. Check the Transfer Case Cable and get it hooked back up and in 2wd.
2. Change out the interlock switch.
3. Try to get this thing in park or neutral if possible after this.
I know that when I press the brake pedal the interlock actuates. Again I didn't get a ton of time to mess with it so that is my plan for Saturday. Fun thing is going to get this on the tow dolly and down the driveway and then switch out and hook up the jeep to the rear wheels and tow it 5 miles home.
1. Check the Transfer Case Cable and get it hooked back up and in 2wd.
2. Change out the interlock switch.
3. Try to get this thing in park or neutral if possible after this.
I know that when I press the brake pedal the interlock actuates. Again I didn't get a ton of time to mess with it so that is my plan for Saturday. Fun thing is going to get this on the tow dolly and down the driveway and then switch out and hook up the jeep to the rear wheels and tow it 5 miles home.
JeepinJarhead03
Full Access Member
all the interlocks and preventatives besides monitoring of the position of the lever non-obstructively is done at the brake, ignition switch and shift lever inside the vehicle,
there's no referees i guess you could say to prevent manual movement of the linkage under the vehicle with the cable detached
once the shifter / switch are operating correctly you can hook the linkage back up and should be golden
just a matter of figuring out if its the interlock bound up at the shifter and whether its a result of the ignition interlock, or if the shifter cable/assembly itself is damaged in someway, either way even if you were to junkyard part the entire cable/shifter lever etc i cant see it running you more than 100-200 tops
i've basically swam my way through fixing the ones i've done, like a stubborn 1 legged dog in a pond , i dont like dealin with that garbage, id rather the transmission itself blow its guts all over the road
there's no referees i guess you could say to prevent manual movement of the linkage under the vehicle with the cable detached
once the shifter / switch are operating correctly you can hook the linkage back up and should be golden
just a matter of figuring out if its the interlock bound up at the shifter and whether its a result of the ignition interlock, or if the shifter cable/assembly itself is damaged in someway, either way even if you were to junkyard part the entire cable/shifter lever etc i cant see it running you more than 100-200 tops
i've basically swam my way through fixing the ones i've done, like a stubborn 1 legged dog in a pond , i dont like dealin with that garbage, id rather the transmission itself blow its guts all over the road
Last edited:
If the transfer case selector isn't working properly in the passenger compartment, you can always disconnect the cable from the lever on the t-case itself, then manually move it into neutral. that will disconnect the transmission and allow you to tow the vehicle in whatever manner you deem necessary. unless of course the t-case is also fubar'ed. then your best bet is to pull the rear driveshaft and tow it with the front wheels on a dolly.
fastcarsspeed
Full Access Member
Tried that. First disconnected at the shifter and it would not budge so then went under and disconnected the cable from the trans and it will not budge. Maybe the Valve Body is messed up? No clue but this is going to be a fun one. First on my list is ignition and then the tranfer case cable to make sure it is in 2wd then it is the shifter linkage.
turblediesel
memberable
Many years ago the auto shift lever on my Ford wouldn't move so I dropped the pan and found it had broken a band. The piece that engaged the band didn't have anything holding it in place so it dropped into the shift mechanism jamming it. Took out that piece and the short broken end of the band and everything worked fine except no second gear. Rebuilt it much later.
Maybe you've got loose parts inside doing the same thing. Odd that you can't get neutral out of the trans AND the t-case. Maybe your hill is putting too much tension on the driveline for it to disengage.
Be careful and chock it well while you're under there wiggling things. Don't get run over!
Maybe you've got loose parts inside doing the same thing. Odd that you can't get neutral out of the trans AND the t-case. Maybe your hill is putting too much tension on the driveline for it to disengage.
Be careful and chock it well while you're under there wiggling things. Don't get run over!
fastcarsspeed
Full Access Member
Well thought I would provide an update. Went and took the Tow Dolly over to pick up the jeep today. First we jacked it up and I went to work on the transfer case cable issue. Just as expected the grommet and cable were off. So put the cable on and the transfer case shifts ok. No joy on the transmission still. It is definitely hurt. So we pulled the rear driveshaft and put her on the tow dolly to get it home.
One other thing we noticed is the brake pedal is very spongy and does seem to hold pressure so we may need to add a master cylinder to the list. Tomorrow we will get her jacked up and drop the transpan and see what is up with the transmission.
One other thing we noticed is the brake pedal is very spongy and does seem to hold pressure so we may need to add a master cylinder to the list. Tomorrow we will get her jacked up and drop the transpan and see what is up with the transmission.
fastcarsspeed
Full Access Member
Here she is in all her dirty glory. Took the seats out to clean the floor and also clean the front seats as they are pretty rough. The transfer case seems to be functioning as it is supposed to. However the Trans will still not shift out Reverse/Park. Dropped the pan and the fluid did not look bad and nothing really on the magnet. With both driveshafts out we are going to need to do the UJoints on the rear at the very least and need to look at the front closer to make sure it is ok.
Tomorrow morning going to try to get the valvebody out as that is where I am thinking we have some issues. Either with the Shift Pawl or the Shift Solenoid something is not happy I feel. I think at that point if we don't find the culprit we will move on to a second hand Trans.
Tomorrow morning going to try to get the valvebody out as that is where I am thinking we have some issues. Either with the Shift Pawl or the Shift Solenoid something is not happy I feel. I think at that point if we don't find the culprit we will move on to a second hand Trans.
Attachments
screw cleaning that. just buy a new carpet.
02-07 Jeep Liberty Carpet Passenger Area 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
http://www.ebay.com/itm/for-2002-07...ash=item4861313499:g:8IAAAOSwHjNV-V5v&vxp=mtr
02-07 Jeep Liberty Carpet Passenger Area 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
http://www.ebay.com/itm/for-2002-07...ash=item4861313499:g:8IAAAOSwHjNV-V5v&vxp=mtr
Last edited:
fastcarsspeed
Full Access Member
Yeah I think I am going to check with the junkyard this week to make a package deal on a trans, front seats and carpet. If seat color is different then the rear too.
Had to pry the valve body out as the shifter arm was seized in the housing. Not feeling very safe just throwing a new/remaned valve body in it so going to find a decent mileage trans to drop back in it.
Had to pry the valve body out as the shifter arm was seized in the housing. Not feeling very safe just throwing a new/remaned valve body in it so going to find a decent mileage trans to drop back in it.
Similar threads
Members online
No members online now.