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Advice/discussion needed: DTTs. re-gear also?


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Register to remove these ads. It's free! Originally Posted by u2slow Can't even really compare the 5 and 6 speed. ...

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Old 01-12-2018, 08:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by u2slow View Post
Can't even really compare the 5 and 6 speed. A 5-4 downshift on the 5spd is like a 6-4 shift on the 6.

A gear change that makes 1st gear redundant seems a waste.
well.....
I was working on an idea on how to make it so I could safely start off in 2nd gear instead of first, and either swap in the 5.01 1st gear ratio or get a trans with it already installed, along with some other changes. Basically, make it a 5spd with a LO gear for towing take off or plowing w/o using 4LO. 4.10 was definitely in the cards for that. I forget... did 4.56 gears fit in the pumpkins? I never ran the numbers for that.

ETA: looks like i'm SOL for 4.56 in the stock D30A up front. Rear can do it.

Anyone have a power band chart for the motor itself? I'm curious on something.
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Last edited by sota; 01-12-2018 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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If taking 1st gear out of the picture for regular driving....might as well go to 4.10. I believe 4.56+ ratios are why JBA made the steel D30 diff.

I have fullsize trucks for chores.
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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It was just a crazy thought/idea I had at one time, and mentally kick around ever so often. If I ever found myself in possession of a spare NSG370 trans, time on my hands, and a beer or 3 to have someone "hold" I'd considered tearing one down and measuring some things to see if certain "ideas" were possible.

U2 is right though, a 6-5 downshift is damn near worthless most of the time, as it's only a 500rpm jump up if you're lucky, and usually by the time you realize you need the downshift it's too late so it's a 6-4 (engine note isn't as noticeable in this thing.) 6-4 happens a lot for me, and in general I find i'm skipping a lot of gears frequently. 3-6 and 4-6 occur a lot on the back roads when going from a stop. I get the feeling that something between 5 and 6 would be the better choice for a top gear in terms of engine speed, especially on the highway. I know, lots of random thoughts.

Still looking like 3.73 is the answer/compromise.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by sota View Post

U2 is right though, a 6-5 downshift is damn near worthless most of the time, as it's only a 500rpm jump up if you're lucky...
No - wrong idea. You're downshifting too late and missing the whole benefit of the close ratios. IMO, the best way to drive this trans is to realize you have two usable gears for any road speed. One for power, one for cruise.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by u2slow View Post
No - wrong idea. You're downshifting too late and missing the whole benefit of the close ratios. IMO, the best way to drive this trans is to realize you have two usable gears for any road speed. One for power, one for cruise.
My old brain just can't handle that, what with driving up to 5 different vehicles (4 of them stick) in a given day at times. I know i'm downshifting too late, since I'm not getting the "signals" i'm used to to tell me to do so. That also goes with my question of a power band chart for this motor, as the barely 500rpm change between 5 & 6 never seems to be enough, unless you're already up in 6th quite a bit.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
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IMO, powerband starts at 2500rpm. If you roll into a highway grade doing less, you will be downshifting.

The louder muffler I put on gives better feedback on what the engine is doing.
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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all or nothing. 4.10s.

If your doing DTT's, your already replacing carrier. Unless your setting up used 3.73s to save some coin go all out.

If its too low with your current tires, go bigger. 265 something or bust.
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Cardhu View Post

If its too low with your current tires, go bigger.
I like how you think
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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I drove a lot of Italian cars with small engines and powerbands. The trick was to put the tach in the powerband sweetspot and stir the stick to keep it there. Double-clutching and rev-matching allowed for skipping as many downshifts as the road called for.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by turblediesel View Post
I drove a lot of Italian cars with small engines and powerbands. The trick was to put the tach in the powerband sweetspot and stir the stick to keep it there. Double-clutching and rev-matching allowed for skipping as many downshifts as the road called for.
pretty much how i've driven every car I've ever owned.

problem with this thing is, with the )$(#$)#($ drive by wire I can't ever tell if I'm in/out of the power band, or if the computer is just being a twat. sometimes it goes like stink, other times not.

and cardhu... raises an interesting point
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  • MOABs with Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain Adventure With Kevlar 245/70R16
  • JBA UCA 4.5
  • OME 790/948/90009/N32
  • Western Suburbanite 7'4" plow
  • DetoursUSA Backbone
  • HF 12k# winch
WTB: project liberty near N.NJ. stick shift, 4x4, working motor optional, CHEAP
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