I've replaced the cam and crank sensor I have a 02 liberty with the 3.5 I have no voltage to the coils even when cranking it did have a 20 am fuse for the fuel pump that it blew i replaced now it won't kick on again the othef symptoms I was told about was the vehicle had all the gauges jumping around till you hit the breaks and the head lights would dim so the guy put a new alternator on it had it running then the battery started smoking so he pulled the positive off went to go put it in gear and the engine stoped now it has no voltage going to the coils and the fuel pump won't cycle the new parts on vehicle are cam and crank sensors altinator radiator and fan it's a nice vehicle just getting aggravated and never worked on one pz help
2002 jeep 3.7 v6 no fuel pump on no spark
- Thread starter Killerer
- Start date
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Billwill
Full Access Member
Sounds like you may have multiple problems now!
Firstly are you sure you have the correct alternator fitted?
The KJ alternator does not have the Voltage regulator built into the Alternator but is regulated from outside by the Power Control Module (PCM).
Secondly the battery may now be fried if it started smoking.
Then there should be thick Dark Green or Red wire coming from the large lug on the alternator....this has a built-in "fusable link" which is like a fuse and could have blown while the battery was being cooked.
So assuming you have a nice new battery correctly fitted....you need a cheap Digital Multimeter, set it to DC volts and with one lead (Black) touching chassis or the negative post on the battery you should get + 12 volts shown when the other lead (Red) is placed
on the Red post of the Battery and on the large connecting lug on the alternator....if the voltage is not on this alternator lug then the Fusable Link is blown and your Alternator cannot charge the battery.
Now when you turn the ignition ON the panel lights should briefly light up then most of the warning lights should go out...oil pressure light only goes out after engine runs.
With ignition ON...put your Meter leads across the fuel pump....should show +12 volts as you turn the ignition ON.....Black wire is Ground (Black meter lead) and Dark Green/White is + 12 volts (Red meter lead). If this voltage is not there then move your Black meter lead to a clean chassis point to see if maybe your Fuel pump is not getting Ground. check #24 20 A in the fuse box under the hood and fuse #15 10 A on the fuse panel inside the cabin. Also try swap over the "Fuel Pump Relay" in the box under the hood with an identical one nearby.
Let us know the results of the above actions and we can take it from there.
Firstly are you sure you have the correct alternator fitted?
The KJ alternator does not have the Voltage regulator built into the Alternator but is regulated from outside by the Power Control Module (PCM).
Secondly the battery may now be fried if it started smoking.
Then there should be thick Dark Green or Red wire coming from the large lug on the alternator....this has a built-in "fusable link" which is like a fuse and could have blown while the battery was being cooked.
So assuming you have a nice new battery correctly fitted....you need a cheap Digital Multimeter, set it to DC volts and with one lead (Black) touching chassis or the negative post on the battery you should get + 12 volts shown when the other lead (Red) is placed
on the Red post of the Battery and on the large connecting lug on the alternator....if the voltage is not on this alternator lug then the Fusable Link is blown and your Alternator cannot charge the battery.
Now when you turn the ignition ON the panel lights should briefly light up then most of the warning lights should go out...oil pressure light only goes out after engine runs.
With ignition ON...put your Meter leads across the fuel pump....should show +12 volts as you turn the ignition ON.....Black wire is Ground (Black meter lead) and Dark Green/White is + 12 volts (Red meter lead). If this voltage is not there then move your Black meter lead to a clean chassis point to see if maybe your Fuel pump is not getting Ground. check #24 20 A in the fuse box under the hood and fuse #15 10 A on the fuse panel inside the cabin. Also try swap over the "Fuel Pump Relay" in the box under the hood with an identical one nearby.
Let us know the results of the above actions and we can take it from there.
You should do just that.
Here's why it matters; IF WE CAN'T UNDERSTAND YOU THEN WE CANNOT HELP YOU.
As you've typed it, that's mostly an incoherent ramble of words.
Start with what Bill recommended, you're going to need a multimeter to test voltage and continuity; it'll be your most used tool for this.
Do you have the ability or someone who can scan the PCM for engine diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's)?
