which OME spring setup to get...

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sota

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Background:
2007 Liberty, 4x4 stick shift
55k miles on original suspension
245/70R16 Goodyear Wrangler Adventure tires on MOABs
future winch install
future plow install
towing a car trailer occasionally

adding:
detours backbone (40#)
winch (85#)
plow (25# bracket only, 280# total)

I need a little lift to clear the tires... they just BARELY rub.
Based on JUST the items that are intended to be permanent on the jeep, I'll be adding minimum 150# over the front axle it looks like. Using this guide I'm thinking the correct choice is part #2927 for the front springs along with the nitrocharger struts.
What should I pick for the rears though. Should I go with the light or the medium.
 

LibertyTC

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I think you would be fine with the 927's up front & the 948's in the rear.
The plow is going to be the heaviest, I assume it wont be on all the time.
 

tommudd

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Wouldn't use anything less than 948s in the rear
Fronts, plows going to be ******* the 927s , but rest of the time you'll be good
 

sota

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yea I know with the plow plus everything else up there (assuming the winch can stay on at the same time. that's not determined yet) it's a lot of weight and nothing short of a custom set of springs will like it. I'm not planning on plowing whole lots or anything crazy like that... just mine and maybe a couple (dozen? max?) neighbor's driveways for some extra cash. And plowing speed is slow with the chosen plow anyways.

Do you think I might be a candidate for using the 2790 diesel front springs instead? Or would they be too much.
 
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tommudd

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If it were me, I'd almost go for the 790s.
I ran them with just the weight of the ARB up front. Really firm at first ( of course I was running them with gasser Frankelift parts) But overall not a bad ride at all.
 

John3seventeen

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I was thinking the same thing Tom. I know you broke these 790's in but they were never stiff at all with the ARB and I didn't have the Frankenlift parts.
 

sota

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anyone know of the top of their head the front axle weight difference between the v6 and diesel?

I'm '' this close to saying the 790's are the answer for me, since I'm (estimating to be) RIGHT at the listed limit for the 927's.

Also, JBA is pimping his UCAs to go with the OME lift. Should I?
 
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sota

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it's a question of, do I need them to make the OME lift work.
Also, I'm in there, might as well do it all at once. Plus any other suspension freshening as well.
 

John3seventeen

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it's a question of, do I need them to make the OME lift work.
Also, I'm in there, might as well do it all at once. Plus any other suspension freshening as well.

If your going to do a clevis lift and top plate addition with the OME then you will definitely need them. Otherwise they will help with alignment and spring contact as well as enable you to change your upper ball joints without pulling the control arms again.
 

sota

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I'm not going to be lifting beyond the 1.5" the OME kit gives me. Any higher and I won't fit in my garage bay! :D
 

tommudd

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I'm not going to be lifting beyond the 1.5" the OME kit gives me. Any higher and I won't fit in my garage bay! :D

OME gives you more than 1.5 inches, with nothing else you get 2.25-2.5. 1.5 is advertised height to meet Australia's Insurance rules
 

sota

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oh great.
now I have to wait until I get the jeep back before I buy then, so I can measure to make sure I can get in (and out!) of the garage!
 

CzarKJ

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oh great.
now I have to wait until I get the jeep back before I buy then, so I can measure to make sure I can get in (and out!) of the garage!

Sounds like you need two lifts. One for the jeep and one for the garage door frame. Just saying.... :gr_grin:
 

Porkchop

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You can lower the air in the tires to get it in and out. Just saying LOL
 

tommudd

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How tall ( or short) is your garage door ?
Maybe someone with a similar one car measure their door and lift
I know with my lift and 32s I still go in a 7 foot, just barely ( of course with the RL rack I did rub so off it went
 

sota

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I'll be double-checking today, but I though it was a standard 7x9 door.
 

CactusJacked

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I just measured mine for reference. With 3.5" of suspension lift, and 32" tires, I'm at 6'-4.5" to the top of my light bar, which is higher than the factory roof rails. I have a 7' (frame height) garage door, but with the door open it hangs below the frame leaving 6'-8" of actual ground to door clearance. So I have 3.5" of Jeep clearance, and could adjust the door to go higher when open if more was needed.
 
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CzarKJ

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I just measured mine for reference. With 3.5" of suspension lift, and 32" tires, I'm at 6'-4.5" to the top of my light bar, which is higher than the factory roof rails. I have a 7' (frame height) garage door, but with the door open it hangs below the frame leaving 6'-8" of actual ground to door clearance. So I have 3.5" of Jeep clearance, and could adjust the door to go higher when open if more was needed.

I will have to look into getting my garage door to go higher. It does the same thing and hangs down 4 inches. With my antenna I am 6'11" and I have to remove it to go into the garage haha
 

CactusJacked

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I will have to look into getting my garage door to go higher. It does the same thing and hangs down 4 inches. With my antenna I am 6'11" and I have to remove it to go into the garage haha

Garage doors can suffer from spring sag too. ;)
My door has wind-up springs at the header, not the tension/pull springs. I know my door was higher when it was new, but over the years the springs lose some life and they could stand to receive some extra turns on the spring lock hubs to tighten them up/raise the door more. I like having my fingers just where they are, so I don't plan on making that a DIY adjustment.
 
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