Where are the motor mounts?

Scottm2010

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So I did some searching, but couldn't find any information.

So.... Could someone post a picture and circle (or do whatever) where the motor mounts are located? Thanks!
 

tjkj2002

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Make sure you look for cracks like the below................

You must be registered for see images attach


Only get OEM mounts,trust me on that one as I had to spend over 4 hours changing the trans/t-case mount because USAFCOP stole my OEM one and replaced it with a cheap aftermarket one that did not last(long story).
 

SAString

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Replacing the mounts, Motor mounts and trans mount.

I've ordered the two engine mounts (motor mounts) and the transmission (transfer case) mount. Should I replace them all at once? I thought I would start with the Trans mount first, but worry that lifting the engine for the engine mounts would stress the trans mount? Maybe doing the engine mounts first is advised?
 
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JasonJ

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I've ordered the two engine mounts (motor mounts) and the transmission (transfer case) mount. Should I replace them all at once? I thought I would start with the Trans mount first, but worry that lifting the engine for the engine mounts would stress the trans mount? Maybe doing the engine mounts first us advised?

If you have the time, and you're already under there... why only do 1/3-2/3 of the job? If you're buying them all, replace them all. Ya gotta do it eventually anyhow.
 

SAString

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Thanks Jason. I have all three mounts ready to go. I should have time this weekend. I hope I still have my knuckles for Christmas!
 

JasonJ

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Thanks Jason. I have all three mounts ready to go. I should have time this weekend. I hope I still have my knuckles for Christmas!

Mechanix gloves are your friend! I like the fast fit and the M-pact models. I use the Fast Fits for just everyday casual work gloves as well. $20 well spent.

Also saves your knuckles!
 

SAString

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Engine mounts

Easily replaced my trans mount the weekend before Christmas. But, the engine mounts took Sat, Sun and Mon before new years! Total PITA! I didn't work solid all three days, because you need to be in the right mood, and very tolerant of tight spaces. The passenger side is easier than the driver side since you don't need to remove anything else to get it out (but the Cat would help). The driver side is a different story: Front driveshaft out, Cat out (Pain!) then use every universal imaginable. Maybe a few choice words for Chrysler engineering, but I don't blame them for not knowing people would keep their KJ's for 17 years and 133K miles. Hopefully this is something that only needs being done once. Big difference!, most vibes are gone, idle feels nice now. Smoother everything overall.
 

JasonJ

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Easily replaced my trans mount the weekend before Christmas. But, the engine mounts took Sat, Sun and Mon before new years! Total PITA! I didn't work solid all three days, because you need to be in the right mood, and very tolerant of tight spaces. The passenger side is easier than the driver side since you don't need to remove anything else to get it out (but the Cat would help). The driver side is a different story: Front driveshaft out, Cat out (Pain!) then use every universal imaginable. Maybe a few choice words for Chrysler engineering, but I don't blame them for not knowing people would keep their KJ's for 17 years and 133K miles. Hopefully this is something that only needs being done once. Big difference!, most vibes are gone, idle feels nice now. Smoother everything overall.

Would it have been helpful to have an engine hoist to lift the engine assembly up a few inches after loosening everything?
 

SAString

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Definitely! I did this laying on my back. Jacked up the engine under the oil pan to free the support bolt from the cradles. Too cramped underneath with the jack in the way, so I used a 2x6 between the pan and cross member to hold the engine up in place (perfect fit). Lifting it from above would be better and maybe provide more room, but this worked given I didn't have access to a hoist.
 

JasonJ

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Definitely! I did this laying on my back. Jacked up the engine under the oil pan to free the support bolt from the cradles. Too cramped underneath with the jack in the way, so I used a 2x6 between the pan and cross member to hold the engine up in place (perfect fit). Lifting it from above would be better and maybe provide more room, but this worked given I didn't have access to a hoist.

Good to know, in case I have to do mine. I have a cheap Harbor Freight engine hoist I bought about 15 years ago for $129, it's been the greatest tool I've ever gotten from that store; have done no less than a dozen engine pulls with it without fail.

I get some odd vibration at idle sometimes, and I wonder if it's worn out trans and engine mounts...
 

SAString

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A few extra notes about the Left Engine Mount replacement. I forgot to say the starter was removed (not too hard...be sure your battery is disconnected and be aware of the steel bracket that holds the harness in place). it is essential to remove the Oil Filter to access the front bolts (plus that stupid drain thingy puzzle of death). The two front mounting bolts, which seem totally impossible to reach or see are actually easy to access near the oil filter with an 18" long extension and a universal (15mm).

Plus (you're gunna hate this...) lower the differential. The front shaft Pinion Companion flange is totally in the way. I was tempted to take it off with a 1 1/8" socket but read it needs a puller so decided not to. But, the diff part is not as bad as it seems, only two bolts with welded nuts just behind the axle boots, allows the entire Diff to neatly rotate downward and the companion flange approaches the frame. Rotating the diff made it a cinch! With the area totally open the motor mount came right out (yep it was cracked all around) and the new one went right back in.

Then the fun begins, be sure your cat donut is replaced and the flanges are clean and smooth. My donut gasket literally tore in half like a sliced bagel, stretching the mesh with it, leaving the halves fused to the flanges. Since my heat blanket was disintegrating and the dremel asbestos dust from grinding out the donut was gunna kill me, I just ordered a new cat online. Be sure to buy one with heat shields! Totally worth it but cheaper if you can save your old one. Advised to use a new V-groove flange clamp (debur the flange for flush contact) and be sure to put the clamp back on so that you can properly access the 10mm nut with a ratcheting through-hole wrench (maybe from above looks easier). If it is not tight, you'll have an exhaust leak and noise. Don't confuse your O2 sensors. Once everything was tight and back in place, driving it was noticeably smoother and quieter (seat of the pants observation).

I hope this helps.
 
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SAString

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Picture with the cat and starter removed. Access!

attachment.php



Picture showing the front bolt locations.

attachment.php
 

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Rezfink

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This thread has been the MOST useful to me. I’m actually in the middle of it and got stuck and couldn’t get the motor mount out. (It’s still loosely stuck in the cradle but all bolts romoved).

I’m about to remove front driveshaft and rotate the differential down as you describe. The nuts don’t appear to be welded so I hope I’m taking off the right ones lol. It’s caked with mud right now so I’ll find out soon .

I’m going to attempt to do it without taking off the starter or cat. But I’m prepared to do so if I get stuck again.

Most of the write ups are about CRD/diesel motor mount replacement so again this thread is helping me out!! Thanks.
 

vlad588

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This thread has been the MOST useful to me. I’m actually in the middle of it and got stuck and couldn’t get the motor mount out. (It’s still loosely stuck in the cradle but all bolts romoved).

I’m about to remove front driveshaft and rotate the differential down as you describe. The nuts don’t appear to be welded so I hope I’m taking off the right ones lol. It’s caked with mud right now so I’ll find out soon .

I’m going to attempt to do it without taking off the starter or cat. But I’m prepared to do so if I get stuck again.

Most of the write ups are about CRD/diesel motor mount replacement so again this thread is helping me out!! Thanks.
I’m doing this job right now and i’m stuck exactly where you were. All bolts on the driver mount are removed but i can’t get the mount out, i can move it a little by hitting it with a hammer but it wont come out. So just wondering how you ended up getting yours out?
P.S. I got the diff removed so i have full access to it.
 
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tommudd

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I’m doing this job right now and i’m stuck exactly where you were. All bolts on the driver mount are removed but i can’t get the mount out, i can move it a little by hitting it with a hammer but it wont come out. So just wondering how you ended up getting yours out?
P.S. I got the diff removed so i have full access to it.


Rezfink

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