Hopefully this is the final Update. Everything was with the ASD, which can lead you in many directions since it controls so much. So finally this AM with a fresh charge on the battery, I was able to Jump pins on ASD Pin 87 and Pin 30, turn key totally started first time Woohoo, this proved everything down stream injectors, engine and as I knew cam timing and crank timing were good, felt good to hear the engine start. So from there it lead to wire, broke or corroded, or the key ignition switch being broke turning enough to start but not enough to push the pin to signal the PCM to pass power on the ASD. So at this point I had already looked a fuses, and the wiring underneath the fuse box . Decided to look at wiring again one more time.
The ASD Relay is all the way at the drivers side upper corner which is pain to tilt up. All looks good, tilt little hire there it was one plug looked little dusty I didn't see before, that's when I cut the electrical tape a little more and tilted up the fuse box gently, and touched the wire with my test light (battery was disconnected) sure enough the wire moved to easy looked up in there with my head light on, and sure enough it was broke right at the compression of the connector. Only one I can see that looks like that strange.
Used some compressed air to blow it out the slot, wire is nice an long as was looped around so I shouldn't have to add to it. Getting the connector out with out the proper tool a bit challenging, finally got it out with my small poker enough to release the lock and popped out the bottom.
Now the hard part is to is to find the proper blade connector, these things look stainless, and they have the divot to lock in when pushed in, hopefully I didn't f'up the lock and it locks in. Found a Dorman 85377 kit with 2 of each size blades, actually say's it for ford the largest one looked like it might work but may be to narrow, so I didn't get it it was $12 I would only use one size if it worked. I have wire blades the blue yellow and red ones, so not over paying for one unless its the correct one. If anyone knows where to get the ones for Jeep let me know. I think it's a Metri-Pack 630 female. Worst case scenero I make the wire long for slack, make the top side hole little larger and fish it through to put it on the relay manually then let it drop down in, I know it's backwoods way, but if the lock that holds it is craped out, not really looking at buying a whole fuse box to replace one bad slot. Metri-Packs are on Amazon if I get it and it works, I'll post here.
Lessons Learned:
1. The engine management systems can cause lots of issues, so right tools to drill down saves problems/time, in the past I would probably replace sensors, with right scanner to rule those out, let me move on.
2. When checking fuses, check them one at a time front to back up and down, if I would caught this the first time I had opened up bottom of the fuse box, I would of saved time. It was hard to see and is in the worst possible spot. Take your time and work through the troubleshooting.
3. Codes helped a bunch to narrow down, and what to rule out. Follow the process.
4. Don't give up. Work your plan, and check stuff off you did.
This sort happened at the worst I was anxious to have it running and not taking my time. My truck is getting the gas tank bracket welded so I don't have it here to drive, and our small car started making a odd noise possibly CV axle, so not having my Jeep running, really was sucking.
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So far I ruled out crank sensor, I can see RPM's on crank, also ruled out camshaft sensor, I can see cam shaft data go into sync on crank. the throttle body P2112, I got a used throttle body off ebay, but not sure if it was good, seller said it was slightly used looked new a dorman at that, but when I opened it, there was a Amazon return label slip in the box, showing someone bought and returned it to Amazon, as defective. Now I know some people list defective to get free returns, but could be defective as I swapped it and it didn't do anything different so I cleaned original and swapped it back. I did the turn on 5 second gas pedal and slow release to reset it. As for a return on what was suppose to be used, but obviously already returned, I filed a return with eBay see where that goes. I think it was a case of someone buying pallet Amazon returns and just blindly reselling them.
Other issue I found before it got dark is on the ASD port 85 Pin where the ASD Relay plugs in suppose to go to ground on key turn and I can not get that there is a way to manually ground it to see if it cranks and starts I will try that tomorrow. If it will start then the issue is the ASD pin 85 to ground path to PCM is broke. At least what I learned so far.
Only good thing with this process, learning how to use my better scanner a bit more, and crossing fingers, no errors pointing to timing or issues like that so far.
They say if the throttle is in a stuck shut mode, it basically will send signal to the PCM that causes the ASD to trigger which would create the issue I am having. But short of having another throttle body to try, im going to try the manual ground.
If anyone has similar crank no start with codes like mine let me know. I will keep updating so others can benefit if I find a resolve.
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Update on crank no start, still digging into it. Suggestions Welcome.
Errors:
P0685 ASD/Main Control Circuit
P0688 ASD/Main Sense Circuit
P2112 Electronic throttle control system unable to open bank 1.
*Cleaned gently the Throttle body, slightly dirty it is stuck shut (may try to find a used one and swap see if makes a difference)
*Swapped ASD Relay with multiple ones
*Verified Fuse is good on ADS 30 AMP Pink.
*Pulled batter positive, and cleaned main connector to fuse box right in front of the batter, pulled box up to pop bottom off to verify no water, or corrosion all sealed dry looked fine, traced wires around looking for fray's and didn't find anything.
I do get the flashing lightening bolt and some said in their case it was failure of throttle body, may grab a used one to swap and see if I get any difference.
