Looks good in that engine bay!
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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desertdriver
...
Another milestone reached.... After a number of issues in late 2024& early 2025 it's been very quiet ever since. I hope I didn't just jinx it with this post
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That’s fantastic! I had to check more closely if that was km or miles, and it’s actually miles. What year is your KJ?
desertdriver
...
2005
Most of it were commuter freeway miles from 2005 until 2017. Still getting 20-22 mpg and paint and interior is in great shape, no accidents and no rust (sunbelt) so I'm hoping I'm not done yet.
David13
Full Access Member
Took out water pump. Next is thermostat then going back and putting it all back. With new water pump and thermostat and all new coolant.
Upper coolant hose looks ok enough to put back in. I'll inspect lower hose tomorrow when I put in the new thermo. It has a plastic thermostat housing. That shouldn't be corroded but I will check tomorrow.
dc
Upper coolant hose looks ok enough to put back in. I'll inspect lower hose tomorrow when I put in the new thermo. It has a plastic thermostat housing. That shouldn't be corroded but I will check tomorrow.
dc
There are threads on here for installing an EVIC...
As requested @burntkat
Attachments
not on the jeep, but the minivan...
so first, parked it one day after using it, no issues.
came out like 2 weeks later and, wouldn't start.
charged the battery, no joy.
could hear the starter solenoid clicking.
tried to bar the engine over, no joy.
checked to see if it was hydrolocked... nope.
poked around and discovered the braided line on the starter was smoked. age and corrosion had killed it.
fine, put in a new starter. cranked over and fired.
sounded like hell though. squealing like the dead.
finally say the alternator was NOT turning... then the belt snapped.
just finished putting in the alternator a bit ago... and discovered the belt tensioner is toast.
got that on order now.
wondering if it's possible that... the tensioner failed, the belt was slipping enough (I could occasionally hear some squealing, but it would go away) that it created enough heat on the alternator pulley that it smoked the internal bearings, locking it up, which prevented the weakened starter from cranking the car and smoked the weakened braided connection.
so first, parked it one day after using it, no issues.
came out like 2 weeks later and, wouldn't start.
charged the battery, no joy.
could hear the starter solenoid clicking.
tried to bar the engine over, no joy.
checked to see if it was hydrolocked... nope.
poked around and discovered the braided line on the starter was smoked. age and corrosion had killed it.
fine, put in a new starter. cranked over and fired.
sounded like hell though. squealing like the dead.
finally say the alternator was NOT turning... then the belt snapped.
just finished putting in the alternator a bit ago... and discovered the belt tensioner is toast.
got that on order now.
wondering if it's possible that... the tensioner failed, the belt was slipping enough (I could occasionally hear some squealing, but it would go away) that it created enough heat on the alternator pulley that it smoked the internal bearings, locking it up, which prevented the weakened starter from cranking the car and smoked the weakened braided connection.
Intermechanico
New Member
Today I started the rear suspension upgrade.
Build the new lower axle links using 2x2x1/4” wall box tubing, Barnes Enduro rod ends and weld in bungs.
The Rear Sway bar will stay on the shop shelf for the time being
Also replaced the fuel injectors and reset Short and Long Fuel Trim
And finally the scariest part of the day…… removing the rocker panel trim pieces to inspect for rust (No rust, luckiest guy alive) and apply fluid film internally to keep it from happening in the future.
Incidentally, if someone is looking for a clean set of lower trim pieces, let me know before I toss them.
Build the new lower axle links using 2x2x1/4” wall box tubing, Barnes Enduro rod ends and weld in bungs.
The Rear Sway bar will stay on the shop shelf for the time being
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Also replaced the fuel injectors and reset Short and Long Fuel Trim
You must be registered for see images attach
And finally the scariest part of the day…… removing the rocker panel trim pieces to inspect for rust (No rust, luckiest guy alive) and apply fluid film internally to keep it from happening in the future.
Incidentally, if someone is looking for a clean set of lower trim pieces, let me know before I toss them.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Last edited:
Intermechanico
New Member
yikes! I’ve seen this before. Incidental alternator seizure. The tensioner is constant tension, so while it’s possible, it’s unlikely.
I think it’s likely just a bad bearing in the alternator, seized up when you last shut it off.
Name brand alternator or offshore? New or good used?
Having a recurring, intermittent, stutter. Feels like fuel cut like you'd get when you exceed max RPM. But it's around 4k. I have new NGK coils installed. Issue has been extremely rare, dating from before I installed the new coils. Plugs are NGK as well, aboit a year old. No codes other than a recurring catcon on bank 2, IIRC..any ideas?
No. The D30a diff is proprietary. I believe both the carrier and rhe ring gear, and quite probably the pinion. This is why a R&P kit for a D30a in a Liberty is approx $800 (new), just for the parts.
NOTE - this is not first-hand info, but I looked into doing the same, which is where I came across this info.
duderz7
Full Access Member
I used the Eaton Detroit trutrac part number to cross reference and find the Dana 30 from a JK and our strange little 30a would take the same part number. Using this info I got the Spartan Helical that most sources say will not fit the KJ but fits a JK and have been running it for a few years now. You'd have to do your own research for the CJ7 part you're looking at.
I believe he's talking about swapping the chunk in it's entirety, gears and all. .. Or am I wrong?
REDACTED
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I've had problems with NGK coils. They started going bad after 20k miles. Definitely recommend replacing them with a different brand
duderz7
Full Access Member
Thought we were talking about the lunchbox locker and carrier. The ring and pinion will not fit, no if's ands, or buts.
DeVilliers
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This thread has so many things going on, I don't know what I'm replying too.
I fitted a lunchbox locker to my 2005. Take the diff centre portion from a 2008+ KJ, swap it out. Put your original ring gear back on. Fit lunchbox. And done.
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