What did you do to your jeep today?

[eric1514]

If a guy can make one for $140, he's probably buying a blank for $40 and programming it in 30 seconds, likely from your VIN or another number you'd have to give him. Perhaps inside your current fob?Still a cheaper option, but I bet the University of YouTube has a 15 minute course.

I looked, but all the tutorials require that I have 2 working fobs. I only have the one.

 

[lfhoward]

Pretty sure JScan can do it by bypassing the requirement of a second key.

Key Programming - BETA — jscan-docs documentation

Edit: Sorry, just remembered KJ’s are not supported by JScan.

 

[eric1514]

Pretty sure JScan can do it by bypassing the requirement of a second key.

Key Programming - BETA — jscan-docs documentation

Edit: Sorry, just remembered KJ’s are not supported by JScan.

JScan would probably fix my TPMS light, also, but alas. Sigh.

 

[Overlander BC]

Remember the good old days when a small metal key was enough? We took a wrong turn somewhere in the 90s

I looked, but all the tutorials require that I have 2 working fobs. I only have the one.

 

[sota]

@eric1514 man if you were closer, I'd do it for free.

 

[sota]

at least until my Autel KM100 stops working, after they decide to prevent anyone with out some ******** cert from using them.

 

[eric1514]

@eric1514 man if you were closer, I'd do it for free.

I appreciate that!

 

[MonteF]

I am using Jscan on my JKUR with a Vgate iCar pro and am able to reset the speedo for the 35 inch tires and the TPMS to a lower pressure I use with those tires. I would like to find an app for the KJ to see what is triggering the airbag light on. Probably a bad impact sensor, but not sure without a way to scan for the code. I may see if Oriely's can scan it when I take some used motor oil in.
I may need to replace the front left axle seal as it is starting to leak, not looking forward to doing it. I had to pull the axle on that side to install an Eaton e-locker and getting the shackle for the shock back lined up is a bit a a pain.

 

[burntkat]

Me too. I need to replace a CV axle on the drivers side and an axle seal on the passengers side. I'm tempted to drop the whole differential.

When it comes time to do my shafts, I'm dropping the whole diff if for no othet reason than to address those 'captive"bolts (IIRC, at the front pivot of the lower arms) with something more rational/precise in length (read, easier to remove)

 

[burntkat]

Fuel mileage got about 2mpg better with the 4.10's - I run a 32.5" tire (235/85R16)

What are you clocking for economy after the swap?

 

[burntkat]

Install as is. I haven’t had good luck replacing the clamps in the past.

Have you tried using 1/4" SS banding and a banding tool?

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I can provide links if you like. Haven't had luck with the 'official' CV joint boot clamps. I started using SS banding when I did shipalt work. If it will hold tons of equipment to a pallet during a C2 COD bird launch and trap, it will work fine for our needs....

 

[burntkat]

The cross bars are the old Yakima round bars. I used 4 bicycle stem/necks for attaching mountain bike handle bars to attach the load bars to the rails. Rock solid and I love the look. Each neck was about $10 on Amazon. They were originally red which looked sweet but have faded...and match the khaki paint

Pics?

 

[burntkat]

Speaking of second keys, I only have one key/fob for my Jeep. Batteries Plus says they will make me a second for $140. Seems like a good deal when compared to $350+ the dealer wants, but I see fobs for cheap on Amazon. Is it worth going that route see as how the fob needs to be programmed at the locksmith cutting the key, anyway?

I did a writeup on this a year of two ago. You will need the PIN code from your dealership if you don't have a spare key. You HAVE to go to the dealership to get this with proof of ownership. If they don't require this... Never darken their door again. It's a security feature. Otherwise anyone could get your pin code...

If you have two keys... You can program the system yourself after getting them cut.

 

[burntkat]

If a guy can make one for $140, he's probably buying a blank for $40 and programming it in 30 seconds, likely from your VIN or another number you'd have to give him. Perhaps inside your current fob?Still a cheaper option, but I bet the University of YouTube has a 15 minute course.

You MUST have the PIN code and a special tool (computer) to plug into the OBD2 port. Believe me, I scoured YouTube trying to find a way when I only had the one fob.

EDIT - this is true of an 05. I cannot comment on other years

 

[lfhoward]

Have you tried using 1/4" SS banding and a banding tool?

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You must be registered for see images attach

I can provide links if you like. Haven't had luck with the 'official' CV joint boot clamps. I started using SS banding when I did shipalt work. If it will hold tons of equipment to a pallet during a C2 COD bird launch and trap, it will work fine for our needs....

I used Oetiker clamps and a clamping tool the last time and then the replacement boot kit failed within 6 months. The clamp is still there, lol. These look like a good alternate option though.

 

[lfhoward]

When it comes time to do my shafts, I'm dropping the whole diff if for no othet reason than to address those 'captive"bolts (IIRC, at the front pivot of the lower arms) with something more rational/precise in length (read, easier to remove)

Do you have the specs or part number on those bolts? I would cut them out if I knew I could find replacements, rather than unbolting the LCA and forcing an expensive alignment.

 

[burntkat]

Do you have the specs or part number on those bolts? I would cut them out if I knew I could find replacements, rather than unbolting the LCA and forcing an expensive alignment.

I do not. Plan is to pull a dim off the hole, or off the cut-off bolts, and get the closest Grade-8 (or metric equivalent) bolt and nut, and reinstall, (IIRC the OEM bolts are outboard-inboard... Ie the head is under the front lower control arm mount, causing this whole problem). New ones will be installed from inboard-facing-out, meaning we can hopefully get a combination wrench on the nut and take out the bolt. If there isn't enough clearance for the head of a wrench, I'll fab a tab and weld the nut to it, so that the tab will catch on the surrounding bracket and stop the nut turning.
For a better idea of what I mean, look at the track bar at the axle bracket on an XJ or 1st-gen ZJ.
I tried to find a pic off of ruffstuff specialties site, but apparently they are OOB... a shame, they were a great source for parts....

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This gives an idea, but the tab *should* merely need to be a rectangle. Just enough to interfere with the channel the nut goes in. Easy to fab with a drill, grinder, and welder.

When I do this, I will absolutely post up with the hardware required.

 

[eric1514]

Can’t you just loosen the nut on those bolts and then cut the head off?

 

[burntkat]

Can’t you just loosen the nut on those bolts and then cut the head off?

Yes... But then how do you propose to hold it in when it's time to reassemble?
(and actually, IIRC - I'm not under the vehicle at the moment so I'm working from memory here - you'd cut the shaft off of the bolt, and still have approx 3/16" or so of shaft remaining attached to the head... Complicating removal of the head of the bolt... And thus, install of a new bolt and nut you'd source independently, after...

 

[sota]

either pull the control arm one more time and get the bolt out and install it "backwards", or cut it out and install its replacement backwards.
I can't remember if I remembered to turn that bolt around when I rebuilt the suspension. Then again I have lifetime alignment on the jeep, so it doesn't matter really.