badkittystt
Full Access Member
Found this while searching random things online. Personally I think it sounds a tad intimidating, especially method two where you're driving at 50mph on a lift (I don't have a lift!) but still interesting information that I thought was worth sharing.
METHOD1:
1. Pull BOTH battery cables completely off of the battery !! - disconnect the cables totally from the Battery and bolt the
cables together - not the battery posts!! (or connect the cables together with jumper cables)
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position
3. Stand on the brakes
4. Remain in this condition from 5-10 minutes to assure complete draining of all the capacitors in the entire electrical system!
5. Turn the ignition key off.
6. Connect everything back up again, reset your clock and stereo presets.
7. Take the car on the road and jump on it!!
8. Drive the car a little harder than usual for a day or two and you should notice the difference from then on.
Important Retrain Instructions, or after cycling the transmission fluid, or even after a rebuild or replacement.
The Ultradrive transmission was the first to control the release of one gear and the apply of another without the use of bands or sprags. It programs its shifting operation by sampling the vehicle's operation pattern while it is being driven. The sophisticated electronics present some unique installation problems that must be addressed if the transmission is to work properly and last.
This sound, which goes "bzzzz---zz-tic", is completely normal. It's the transmission fluid control solenoid valves opening and shutting rapidly to make the fluid go where it's supposed to go to shift the transmission. All the Ultradrive automatics make this sound with every upshift, every downshift, and every gear selection. You only hear the one as you pull to a stop, because the road and engine noise are minimal at this low speed.
METHOD2:
To prevent 2-3 and 4-3 bindup and/or damage it is VERY IMPORTANT to 'fast re-schedule' the controller before road testing the vehicle. Because the controller will retain the program from the old settings that had old fluid, worn or burnt clutches, it will increase the clutch apply rate. Most controllers won't re-set fast enough to prevent damage to the new clutches. To prevent damage the controller needs a 'fast re-schedule' before the road test.
With the wheels off the ground and the selector in OD position 1) Apply the throttle slowly until a speed of 45 to 50 mph is indicated. 2) Lift the throttle gently and allow the indicated speed to slow to 20 mph. 3) Gently apply the brakes to bring the wheels to a stop.
Repeat this at least 75 times while noticing the feel of the 2-3 shift. When a light throttle 2-3 shift no longer binds up or bogs the engine the transmission is ready to road test.
Take the vehicle on the road. At 38 mph lift the throttle and apply a very small amount of brake. If the 4-3 coast downshift is rough at 20 to 26 mph take the vehicle back up to 38 mph and lift the throttle again. At 32 to 35 mph add just enough throttle to barely make a 3-2 kick down shift. Do this 40 times and re-check for a rough 4-3 coast downshift. If the shift is still rough repeat the 3-2 kick down 40 to 80 times.
This procedure will program the transmission for proper shifts and should be performed whenever the transmission is repaired or replaced and whenever the battery is disconnected. Failure to follow these procedures may result in costly damage to internal components in your replaced transmission.
This seems quite extensive, and you're right, it is. Since the TCM learns your driving habits, you have to do this to make it think this is the way you drive, and the trans will shift accordingly. The more you drive after the learning, the less adaptive it is, since it is based on an averaging scale. The more variables and times that are added to these calculations over time; that are needed to calculate shifting; becomes extensive, and lengthy for the TCM. So there has to be a point where it stops learning, and the shift pattern is set.
This information is from Chrysler Repair Technicians, and is also overlooked by many other non OEM Transmission centers, like Cottman, and Aamco.
METHOD1:
1. Pull BOTH battery cables completely off of the battery !! - disconnect the cables totally from the Battery and bolt the
cables together - not the battery posts!! (or connect the cables together with jumper cables)
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position
3. Stand on the brakes
4. Remain in this condition from 5-10 minutes to assure complete draining of all the capacitors in the entire electrical system!
5. Turn the ignition key off.
6. Connect everything back up again, reset your clock and stereo presets.
7. Take the car on the road and jump on it!!
8. Drive the car a little harder than usual for a day or two and you should notice the difference from then on.
Important Retrain Instructions, or after cycling the transmission fluid, or even after a rebuild or replacement.
The Ultradrive transmission was the first to control the release of one gear and the apply of another without the use of bands or sprags. It programs its shifting operation by sampling the vehicle's operation pattern while it is being driven. The sophisticated electronics present some unique installation problems that must be addressed if the transmission is to work properly and last.
This sound, which goes "bzzzz---zz-tic", is completely normal. It's the transmission fluid control solenoid valves opening and shutting rapidly to make the fluid go where it's supposed to go to shift the transmission. All the Ultradrive automatics make this sound with every upshift, every downshift, and every gear selection. You only hear the one as you pull to a stop, because the road and engine noise are minimal at this low speed.
METHOD2:
To prevent 2-3 and 4-3 bindup and/or damage it is VERY IMPORTANT to 'fast re-schedule' the controller before road testing the vehicle. Because the controller will retain the program from the old settings that had old fluid, worn or burnt clutches, it will increase the clutch apply rate. Most controllers won't re-set fast enough to prevent damage to the new clutches. To prevent damage the controller needs a 'fast re-schedule' before the road test.
With the wheels off the ground and the selector in OD position 1) Apply the throttle slowly until a speed of 45 to 50 mph is indicated. 2) Lift the throttle gently and allow the indicated speed to slow to 20 mph. 3) Gently apply the brakes to bring the wheels to a stop.
Repeat this at least 75 times while noticing the feel of the 2-3 shift. When a light throttle 2-3 shift no longer binds up or bogs the engine the transmission is ready to road test.
Take the vehicle on the road. At 38 mph lift the throttle and apply a very small amount of brake. If the 4-3 coast downshift is rough at 20 to 26 mph take the vehicle back up to 38 mph and lift the throttle again. At 32 to 35 mph add just enough throttle to barely make a 3-2 kick down shift. Do this 40 times and re-check for a rough 4-3 coast downshift. If the shift is still rough repeat the 3-2 kick down 40 to 80 times.
This procedure will program the transmission for proper shifts and should be performed whenever the transmission is repaired or replaced and whenever the battery is disconnected. Failure to follow these procedures may result in costly damage to internal components in your replaced transmission.
This seems quite extensive, and you're right, it is. Since the TCM learns your driving habits, you have to do this to make it think this is the way you drive, and the trans will shift accordingly. The more you drive after the learning, the less adaptive it is, since it is based on an averaging scale. The more variables and times that are added to these calculations over time; that are needed to calculate shifting; becomes extensive, and lengthy for the TCM. So there has to be a point where it stops learning, and the shift pattern is set.
This information is from Chrysler Repair Technicians, and is also overlooked by many other non OEM Transmission centers, like Cottman, and Aamco.
