Transmission may be out.

Runion

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I have a 2005 Liberty, not a sport just plain ole Liberty.
Motor runs sweet, had brakes and tired on recently. Getting the normal door rust but rides great.

Was going out of town when ran into a road construction zone. we slowed down with the traffic to a crawl.
When traffic moved, I tried to press on the gas pedal and had no movement but the motor revved up.

I was able to move to the side of the road on what little momentum I had left and stopped.
I tried again in Drive, 2, 1 and reverse. The motor revved up as before. ****** fluid is up, no leaks.
When I was in 2 or 1 when I pressed on the gas pedal, I could hear a sort of grinding, that you could
hear speed up as the motor revved up.

being in the middle of a major traffic jamb and no tools there was little I could do at the time.
I had it towed to a transmission place.
It would be 2 to 3 weeks before they can work on it and they warned me it would cost up to $3700
to rebuild the transmission.

In the past, I had a Chevy Truck that spun the motor shaft from the fly wheel and it sounded very
similar to what I heard from the Jeep. Though for the fly wheel to do that is not common.

I was looking around and as you know, the prices on used cars has DOUBLED (11-14-2021). I'd have to pay
more than I paid for my Jeep 3 years ago, and I could be buying a basket case.

So what would you guys recommend..........?
Should I sell the Jeep for what I can get, or bite the bullet and have the trans repaired if that is
what it needs?
I still may be surprised by a lesser repair but I'm not sure at this point what is going on with it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

LQ
 

LibertyTC

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Electronically controlled 42RLE transmission that can be scanned for transmission codes.
Any trans shop, this should be the first step and obtain the codes, post them back here.
 

Runion

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Ok the news came back.
The front axle universal is shattered about $700
BUT
they scanned the Transmission
T0700
PO74cc
P1776

One is a circuit error
One is a Sol Sw Error
One is Stuck in Reverse.

While I was under there, I see the oil pan is wet with oil.
is there any easy way to change that out or
has anyone come up with a fix for the oil pan, maybe
coat it with something to hold the oil and stop the leaks???

Thanks for any and all comments.

slc
 

LibertyTC

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" front axle universal is shattered" ??
Main drive shaft has a set of universal U joints that are easily replaceable.
Then there is the Front Prop Shaft ahead of the main driveshaft, and then there is a left or right side CV axle shaft.
Possibly a better description or some photos would help.

The oil pan: Here is one video that allows a possibly easier access/ method.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Also here are are some other threads related to oil pan removal from our site: https://www.google.com/search?q=jeepkj.com+oil+pan+removal&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1
Trans codes PO74_ cc? one number seems to be missing. T0700 makes no sense -P0700 ?
 

Runion

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It is the universal jt under the boot, it was destroyed. the universal wrapped around and tore up the shaft.
Rebuilt is not much less than new, go figure.
The bolts that hol
They need to replace the bolts for the (can't remember what its called) support bracket??? They were able to get them off with some effort but they have to be replaced. lol THEY are NOT available anymore. not really surprised to hear that. Trip to ACE hardware I think.
I looked her over since they have her up, seems solid enough, but the undercoating/rust stop is all gone.
will have to get some garage time with a lift and apply more rust stop while I try to apply something on the oil pan.
Brake lines look good, no corrosion.
Suspension looks good, been in weather but otherwise ok.
I think its worth the repair, but it wont be cheap
 

tommudd

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Ok the news came back.
The front axle universal is shattered about $700
BUT
they scanned the Transmission
T0700
PO74cc
P1776

One is a circuit error
One is a Sol Sw Error
One is Stuck in Reverse.

While I was under there, I see the oil pan is wet with oil.
is there any easy way to change that out or
has anyone come up with a fix for the oil pan, maybe
coat it with something to hold the oil and stop the leaks???

Thanks for any and all comments.

slc
Drive shaft to the front diff from transfer case has CVs not universal joints , both which can be replaced for less than 80 bucks and come with new mounting bolts included
www.driveshaftparts.com

Then from front diff out to wheels in front are also CVs, so no universal joints at all in front drivetrain , and NOT 700 bucks worth
 

Runion

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Drive shaft to the front diff from transfer case has CVs not universal joints , both which can be replaced for less than 80 bucks and come with new mounting bolts included
www.driveshaftparts.com

Then from front diff out to wheels in front are also CVs, so no universal joints at all in front drivetrain , and NOT 700 bucks worth
thanks, Im looking into this as I speak. I was lead to believe that The Rebuilt shaft was over $600 and New $700+.
Mine is pretty tore up though but I will revisit this concern as saving a buck is important.
Thanks a lot.\
slc
 

tommudd

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If the shaft itself is bent then yes need another one,
BUT if only the CVs or one or the other is bad then rebuild it
 

runfor5

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If you come to determine something is up with the transmission or still have the trans codes, cheap things to try would be: fluid + filter change (drop the pan), as well as replacing both the input and output sensors on the trans (they’re located on the drivers side of the transmission if I recall). All stuff you can do for <$100-$150 in total just to see where it gets you. Be sure to get Mopar filter and sensors if you can.
You could also try swapping the throttle position sensor (TPS)… I’m not entirely convinced it was connected to my trans issues but some things I read online seemed like it could be.
If you decide to tackle a full transmission swap yourself, feel free to send me questions. You will save $2k+ doing yourself. I wrote up a post on here a couple years ago about replacing a 42RLE in our ‘04 Liberty. Happy to help and send you photos if their links are broken!
 

Runion

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Sadly all the fluids are good.
The problem by all I can figure is mechanical.
Here is the story, I will try to abreviate it.
I was on I55 heading to St Louis, 65 mph, approaching Construction area.
Right lane was closed we merged. about 2 miles down the road the left lane
merged and traffic slowed to a crawl.
as i slowed I felt a vibration, then it went away.
as I began to crawl with the traffic I fell that vibration again, went away.
we were still barely coasting as traffic began to move, I pressed the accelorator
and the engine revved up, no forward motion, let up and tried again, no go go.
I barely coasted to the side of the road, put in park.
Put in Drive and tried again, just revved, tried Rev, just revved.
When I tried 2 and 1 it reved but there was a grinding sound too that
was faster as the engine revved up. was gone when just idle.
I was hoping the flywheel failed (this happened on my truck) but it is
in good condition. The problem is in the ******.
I will try what I can but pretty sure the grinding is a death ****.
I have no idea what the vibration was, it came and went 2wice.

Greatly appreciate the advice folks.
 

mikelikesbbq

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Did it grind when you put it back in park after you tried different gears? If so, then the trans is probably working but the t-case might have broken or ended up in neutral. I have also heard of the secondary oil filters (the can filter inside the trans) on these working loose. Once the seal is broken it won't have any gears as there will be no hydraulic pressure.

It's entirely possible that there was a mechanical failure as well, but it's unusual for it to break while just idling down. Hopefully it is something simple and cheap. As for the driveshaft, get one from the junkyard and put new joints on it. If you can find a u-pull it parts for these are dirt cheap.

You might even consider gambling on a used trans for a few hundred bucks if a rebuild isn't feasible. If you do, try to find a wrecked/rolled one in the junkyard as it was at least running/driving when it crashed. The nicer looking ones are usually scrapped for mechanical failures. Hope it works out for you!
 

tommudd

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Grinding noise sounds like my buddys 04
he was heading to my place, coming into a small town nearby he slowed for a traffic light
light turned green he started to speed up
heard grinding sounds for just a second or two then it more or less went into freewheel
nothing in any gear at all
used transmission and all was good
tore old one apart, clutches etc all torn up
 

Runion

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Did it grind when you put it back in park after you tried different gears? If so, then the trans is probably working but the t-case might have broken or ended up in neutral. I have also heard of the secondary oil filters (the can filter inside the trans) on these working loose. Once the seal is broken it won't have any gears as there will be no hydraulic pressure.

It's entirely possible that there was a mechanical failure as well, but it's unusual for it to break while just idling down. Hopefully it is something simple and cheap. As for the driveshaft, get one from the junkyard and put new joints on it. If you can find a u-pull it parts for these are dirt cheap.

You might even consider gambling on a used trans for a few hundred bucks if a rebuild isn't feasible. If you do, try to find a wrecked/rolled one in the junkyard as it was at least running/driving when it crashed. The nicer looking ones are usually scrapped for mechanical failures. Hope it works out for you!
 

Runion

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Did it grind when you put it back in park after you tried different gears?--
NO. I actually only heard the grind when in gear 2 and 1 and Rev, once the revs slowed down, it stopped.

I have found a drive shaft at the junk yard to be rebuilt, far cheaper then from them.
thank you
 

mikelikesbbq

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Did it grind when you put it back in park after you tried different gears?--
NO. I actually only heard the grind when in gear 2 and 1 and Rev, once the revs slowed down, it stopped.

I have found a drive shaft at the junk yard to be rebuilt, far cheaper then from them.
thank you
Yeah sounds like the planetary assembly or clutch packs might have let go then. Hope you're able to get it going again.
 

Runion

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OK guys, here is were it's at.

the trans place verified the ****** is in need of a rebuild.
I did consider a junk yard replacement however, I am going to use her
for towing long distance, so I think it is in my best interest to have it rebuilt properly.

So many options on the front drive shaft.....
Thanks for that link.
I could rebuild the front and back for about $140 dollars.
I called the auto recycle yard ( The Mens Mall ) and found a slightly
used front drive shaft for about $100, (115000 miles).
The guy across the street said to wait a day and he would look it up.
He come back and said he can get that drive shaft after market
for $132.
going with the aftermarket drive shaft for the same reasons as rebuilding
the ******.
Going this route on the front drive shaft is saving about $600.

She should be on the road in about a week and a half or there abouts.
thanks to you all for your comments and suggestions.

BTW guys. My Jeep Liberty has about 138000 miles. I had to replace
the shift cable, from the shifter to the ****** because the part that
connects to the transmission wore the plastic end enough to be loose
and it fell off the trans handle (shifter).
It just fell off, no warning, and of course, when that is off, you can't move.
So if you have alot of miles on your Liberty, you might want to check it out.

thanks again, much appreciated.
 

tommudd

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cheap parts, well should last for a while
rebuilding the front driveshaft would of been way better
 

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