I know a bunch of people who has shifting problems with their transmissions, and changing the fluid helped 100%. It may not last too much longer, but, at least you get some more miles out of it...
ALSO, tjkj2002, your relearn requires taking it to the dealer. Well, you may as well get your fluid swap done there if you're going to do that! If you know anything about the law of averages, the more miles you put on, the longer and LONGER the averages take to compute, to a point where it can take MONTHS, as it LEARNES, not only the transmission conditions, and your driving habits. So, the transmission won't relearn anything fast, unless forced to, either way, dealer relearn, or removing power. You want it to learn FAST because you changed the fluid and filter, changing pressures and indexes right away; thicker fluid now, more pressure, so it don't need a full duty cycle anymore, things like that.
Anyhow, I don't care who designed the transmission, a computer controlled transmission needs to be reset once any major fluid change, or repair is done. Say you change the clutch packs, and don't do anything? You will apply the same pressures to the NEW clutches, as if they were the same ones, burning them out faster. You can ask any Cottman guy, these transmissions keep them in business. #1 cause of failure is heat, they will attest to that till they're blue in the face. Other causes are USER end caused failures, which are THESE type, when they do it themselves and just GO, without resetting the TCM after repairs or service they do. We agree, yeah, it should be reset, but how it's done? PAYING for it your way, or just removing power from the car for 10 minutes. When you change the plugs, you should do the same thing, to relearn a better idle, pull power, and wait... First start, the car stalls, 2nd start, fine, and smooth idle...
Regardless, these are the things I do, and my power-trains have NEVER, EVER failed for ANY reason. Maybe I'm lucky? Really? With twelve+ cars in my history (5 of them Chrysler product), not ONE had a drive-train failure? So, either I am doing something right, or am just one lucky ****** There was the CIRRUS, but, the car was not taken care of PRIOR, once I got it, and had the one input sensor failure after I got it; no failures... The woman who had it NEVER changed the fluid and filter, nothing, so it began to slip at 89k miles, yet my Avenger, with the SAME EXACT drive-train, was strong at over 100K, and at 153K, was still fine at trade in ALL ORIGINAL parts. In fact, I saw my old Avenger in South Side last week... Was strange to see it... Anyhow, all other card I have had, well over 150K miles on them when I got rid of them, and there was not a thing wrong with the power-train...
Oh, I bought a VAN with a bad motor, so I had that replaced (motor with 50K on it) with 140K on the transmission, but, I put another 34K on the body and trans, was fine at 174K+ miles... So, what do I do that is different from most people? I pay attention to what the pro's tell me, and I do it.
Actually? Any repair procedure of this magnitude always starts with - Disconnect Power (in one form or another). You know? Most people just do it with power, and, with Chrysler products of this day and age, is not wise.
My sisters boyfriend, a FrontWD car, with not going into gear, AT ALL... Changed the fluid and filter, got about three weeks driven before it failed again, but for good. He didn't disconnect the battery... It was a Chrysler... It was on it's way out, no doubt, but the simple change of fluid and filter got 3 more weeks out of something that wouldn't move otherwise? He may have gotten more, had he removed power for 10 minutes...
Well, there's another book written...