To lock or not to lock

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CzarKJ

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Well it seems my rear diff is getting louder... My trusty local mechanic said it sounds as if my pinion bearing is heading down the tubes. Well since I NEED to get that fixed I figured why not upgrade while he is in there. 4.10s were and option but I just don't have that kinda cash right now. Buttt how about throwing a locker or lsd in there? I know I would go detroit and have read a bunch of both but what is recommended on here? I will only be doing the rear (for now). I have 3.73s right now.
 

LibertyTC

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Sounds may not correctly identify problem. Since you should take cover off & inspect..why not try removing cover & see whats happening in there?
When was the last time you changed the diff lube?
I take it you have an open carrier (not trac-Lok)?
Personally so I had more time to decide what I was going to change it to...
I would start by inspection & getting some Lucas 85W-140 in there, and see if that quiets it down for starters...
According to JBA site Eaton 8.25 is $686 and Detroit is $825.
An option also is a master rebuild kit ($250?) for your current diff & labor...
 

CzarKJ

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Well I changed it last summer. The next time I open it I want to be fixed really. A master rebuild was also on the table if there was damage in there. I figured if in going to pay labor to have someone pull it apart and fix it then they might as well upgrade it at the same time.
 

CzarKJ

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So what is the real difference between the truetrac and the regular locker? I know the regular locker is a clutch system while the truetrac is a limited slip. How differently are they to drive with? Does the truetrac technically transfer less power?
 

CzarKJ

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LibertyTC

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Hang tight.. I have requested Tom's valuable help/ opinion, Via a PM request.
 

tommudd

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CzarKJ

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So why are you not going with the Trutrac ? Just curious

As my understanding of the lockers vs the lsd it is that if I lose traction on one tire the lsd will attempt to transfer power to high traction tire and keep the other moving but if it isn't able to transfer enough torque the one tire that has no traction will still spin and the other wont move. With a regular locker it keeps constant power to both regardless of traction. So if I have one that is unable to get any traction I won't lose the power to the tire that has it.

If I am correct in these understandings I would prefer the regular locker. Please school me if I am not :).
 

CzarKJ

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On the other hand a full locker may make my 6 months of winter unpleasant. I am now considering the truetrac... this is one hard decision. But I will make it tonight!
 

tjkj2002

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On the other hand a full locker may make my 6 months of winter unpleasant. I am now considering the truetrac... this is one hard decision. But I will make it tonight!
You'd be very happy with the DTT.All the traction stories from terrible LSD's are from clutch based ones,the DTT is not a clutch based LSD and has more pre-load then others.Plus since the DTT has no clutches means no wearing out and no friction modifier needed.
 

CzarKJ

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Ya I am going to go with the DTT. The overwhelming amount of locker horror stories combined with rear wheel drive in the winter made the decision for me. I am not a extreme rock crawler so it will be much better for me in the long run. Eventually maybe even another in the front. Just waiting on the price match before I order.
 

tjkj2002

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Ya I am going to go with the DTT. The overwhelming amount of locker horror stories combined with rear wheel drive in the winter made the decision for me. I am not a extreme rock crawler so it will be much better for me in the long run. Eventually maybe even another in the front. Just waiting on the price match before I order.
When I still had IFS I ran a DTT in the front and ARB in the rear,great combo for winter driving.The DTT is good in the rear but better in the front.
 

CzarKJ

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When I still had IFS I ran a DTT in the front and ARB in the rear,great combo for winter driving.The DTT is good in the rear but better in the front.

I was almost thinking doing the opposite. Since this is a daily driver a DTT in the rear and a select-able in the front. Not really even concerned with the front for a long time due to lack of funds. Maybe won't even do it we shall see.
 

sdg

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FWIW:

I run DTTs in both axle differentials for more than 10'000km now, and after the front one has "relaxed" a bit (happened after several hundred km), it's almost unnoticeable during regular driving.

The rear has also not caused any issues during snow driving (I'm driving carefully as always).

Off-road (no extreme mud, but everything else), they are also great and with the traction control system haven't left me hanging anywhere.

So, for me, as a daily driver and off-road "walks", the setup is great.

I was considering an ARB locker in the front, but the combination of price, complexity of installation and the requirement for manual user operation (i.e. "Should I lock now? Ah, no, too late, stuck already.") decided in favour of the front DTT.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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As my understanding of the lockers vs the lsd it is that if I lose traction on one tire the lsd will attempt to transfer power to high traction tire and keep the other moving but if it isn't able to transfer enough torque the one tire that has no traction will still spin and the other wont move. With a regular locker it keeps constant power to both regardless of traction. So if I have one that is unable to get any traction I won't lose the power to the tire that has it.

If I am correct in these understandings I would prefer the regular locker. Please school me if I am not :).

Feathering the brakes takes care of that issue. Just a little bit of brake pressure ensures that both wheels remain engaged and keep you moving.

Bob
 

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