To Keep or Not to Keep

[Bandini]

Howdy everyone,

So, I figured this was the place to come and ask...

I've got a 2003 Lib Renegade. I like it. It has 137,000 miles, pretty clean.

I bought it in August of 2014 for 5k with 110,000 from the original owner who changed the oil religiously, but neglected some other fluids. Overall he did maintenance on the vehicle, towed a small boat, but didn't abuse the thing.

He replaced the rear diff, water pump, fuel pump at about 100,000 mi. Since then I have replaced the radiator, oil pan, power steering pump, passenger side power window motor, front brake hoses, front and rear brake pads, 3 ignition coils, various little things and I threw a decent stereo in it. About 3k in repairs/maintenance.

I am now looking at new muffler tailpipe and I have a leak just in front of the cat that I can weld up (rather, a buddy of mine will weld it). I am also going to need new tires and - here's the rub, the transmission has thrown the 0700 code at my a few times, with some stuck shifting on three occasions.

Twice it wouldn't downshift on big hills and once it wouldn't shift past third gear on the highway. Upon cool down each time, the problem went away. My mechanic, who I trust and have been going to for 25 years ran all the internal codes and told me 'keep driving it locally but, you're going to need a ******.'

The ****** does some weird things now and again, but, driving around town to work (I live about 2 miles from work) it has been ok.

Question is, do I drop the 3 grand in tires, exhaust and ****** or just keep driving as is until it goes. I don't really want to sell it and pass the problem on, more likely I would tell a buyer the exact situation and likely get no more than $2000 for it. Either way, I am not in a position to take on another car payment (wife has the 'good' car)

I do like the Jeep, I do drive it off-road (lightly) when I fish or bike up in the Catskills, and I do tow a small sailboat and Go-Kart (very light towing). So I like having the thing.

My fear is, drop money in and then the engine needs replacing or some other huge failure.

What are your thoughts on long term reliability of the 3.7? Opinions welcome.

Thanks!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

If the engine has had oil changes done routinely on it and has never been overheated, I wouldn't worry about it.
I think the better question is, what can you buy for 3 grand (cost of upcoming repairs) that you would like just as much?

Mine has 160k on it and I got the trans rebuilt for $3500 this past summer...no regrets. I'd get the trans rebuilt and keep on going!

 

[LibertyTC]

Much has already been done to this Jeep, I hear ya you like it..!! (me like KJ's too)
Kj's are a pretty sturdy vehicle and IMHO worth restoring.
Did you replace the oil pan due to rust? How is the body? Any rusted rockers or?
Has a transmission pan drop been performed with new filter & ATF+4? Any particles in pan?
Jeeps like clean fluids, and let hope if it was serviced, that they used the correct fluid.
Change the engine oil every 3000 miles and use a good oil filter like a Mobil 1.
How does the engine sound / run now, all ok there? Many have 250 k on the 3.7 and still going strong.
Re rear diff, I service the rear diff every 15 k miles...Maintenance is key.

 

[JasonJ]

Overall he did maintenance on the vehicle, towed a small boat, but didn't abuse the thing.

Lack of maintenance IS abuse.

But I get what you're saying. I agree with the above, I'd fix it and move on. For the upcoming $3000 you're not likely going to find anything you enjoy as much that won't need the same repairs anyhow.

 

[Bandini]

2003 Jeep Lib

Thanks for quick feedback...

Yeah, I mean, I agree about not maintaining fluids being abuse. I did ask him why he would change the diff fluids and never service the ******.

He has no idea whether the ****** was ever serviced or not. He is a change your own oil kind of guy, which he did every 3,000, but said he never did the ****** fluid. Since I bought it at 110,000, I decided to leave it as it is what with the whole, do or do not change transmission fluid once it gets that old controversy. He did have the dealer replace the rear diff so I wonder if they would have done the ****** fluid and filter as part of that service.

Anyway, it runs great, except for the three ignition coils I have gone through - one of which lasted only a year and a half, then went again. My mechanic got it warrantied but, makes me wonder why the same cylinder burned through an ignition coil again so quickly, I should probably have him do a compression test.

When I look at the fluid it looks red to reddish but not brown or burnt smelling in any way. Whadd'ya think about replacing filter and draining fluid, filling with ATF_+4? Advisable or not at this point?

I asked him if it was maybe a solenoid pack but the ****** guy he uses said it was throwing multiple codes and that likely wasn't the sole problem with it. If the fluid was never serviced, likely the issue is wear I suppose.

It never fully overheated - when the power steering pump went I was on the highway and it got real hot real fast because it threw the serpentine belt - I slowed down to a crawl and cranked the heat and got right off the highway. The gauge was pegged at hot but it only ran that way for maybe a couple minutes getting off the road. That was about 15,000 miles ago.

There's very little rust. the driver's side door has a bit under the door panel on the inside but I hit it with some rust inhibitor. Rest of the body looks great, paint is great, there's some bubbling around the rear upper brake light which has been that way for years he said and never spread.

I looked at a 2001 XJ, slight lift, pretty good shape no rust for $2500, 180,000 mi. I also looked at (gasp) a 2006 H6 Subaru Outback for $5000 with 130,000 mi in perfect condition, original owner. I've owned Subbies before and also like them. I could certainly tow what I have with the Sube. I couldn't drive on the Jeep trails like I do now upstate but, ya know, have to be financially responsible too.

 

[dude1116]

Weigh the checks and balances. The repairs will almost always be cheaper than car payments. And used cars are a crapshoot which may end up with more or less problems than you have now. So really this is your call.

My jeep has been showing its age so I decided to get myself a well maintained Scion. It was cheap, and had 60k miles on it. I kept the Jeep and am saving money in gas and repairs that DON'T need to happen to the Jeep since I'm not driving it 15-20k miles per year anymore.

 

[TruckerKevin]

I see used transmissions on craigslist and other sites all the time around here for libbies. Usually out of Liberties that the motor is blown. Sometimes as cheap as $250. I think I'd go that route and put it in myself or have it done. I don't know how you feel about used stuff though.

I recently bought an 03 libbie with a rod knock on a swap site for $300. Car was otherwise clean. I found a used low mileage engine for it and paid a local backyard wrench another $300 to do the swap. Great car. My daughter drives it 20 miles each way daily to her job

 

[tjkj2002]

Anyway, it runs great, except for the three ignition coils I have gone through - one of which lasted only a year and a half, then went again. My mechanic got it warrantied but, makes me wonder why the same cylinder burned through an ignition coil again so quickly, I should probably have him do a compression test.

Unless the coil was a MOPAR coil they are very hit and miss for how long they last.Ones from advance auto,autozone,and the like are known for short lives.I can't tell you have many BWD coils that I have been given to install and have been bad right out of the box.I'm at the point at work now that I tell them to order 2 if there going to get me the cheap crap since the chances the 1st one will be bad is 50%.

Now the higher end aftermarket coils like ones from Accel or MSD are generally very good and on par with OEM but cost much,much more.

 

[JasonJ]

Unless the coil was a MOPAR coil they are very hit and miss for how long they last.Ones from advance auto,autozone,and the like are known for short lives.I can't tell you have many BWD coils that I have been given to install and have been bad right out of the box.I'm at the point at work now that I tell them to order 2 if there going to get me the cheap crap since the chances the 1st one will be bad is 50%.

Now the higher end aftermarket coils like ones from Accel or MSD are generally very good and on par with OEM but cost much,much more.

Very true.. I don't know why the major aftermarket manufacturers can't make a good coil pack for these engines.

I look at it this way, the original MOPAR coil lasted 100,000, 140,000 ish miles, right? So should the replacement MOPAR coil. I bet that if you compared cost to number of miles before failure, you come out ahead with an OE coil.

 

[Bandini]

So, I've decided to do the exhaust and get tires. I have 3k in a car account so I'm going to draw on that and leave about 2 grand or so in there in case the ****** up and dies. Seems to drive fine most of the time. Do you think it makes sense to do a ****** service fluid and filter (no flush) even if it's never been done in 137,000 miles? Everybody I talk to has a different opinion. I kinda feel like at this point a fluid and filter can only help and not hurt and even if it does go I'll just get a remanufactured one.

I don't love the idea of a used transmission since I wouldn't be doing that myself and if I'm going to spend the money on labor I may as well get a remanufactured one and see if I can run the truck for a few more years. I only do about 5k a year so, it isn't inconceivable I could pass the truck to my son in 4 years who will be driving by then. Which makes me feel old...

I have been eyeballing some nice XJs... This guy lives right near me:

2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 4.0 82k miles

I'm gonna stick with the Ol' Libby though.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

XJs are fun, I love mine, but the KJ is definitely the one to have for a DD/trips. And if you have to pick one.