Thermostat Specifications Jeep Liberty KJ 3.7

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LibertyTC

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Dealer Part number recommended for a gasoline 3.7 engine KJ Liberty is 68174083AA

195 degree Thermostat

Recommended Dealer reversed flushed Service Interval is Every 5 years regardless of mileage.

Replacement of Thermostat should be recommended /completed at time of Service.
Dealership has the correct flush machine and will use the correct HOAT coolant mixed correctly.

I want to make sure all of the above statements are true/correct.
So feel free to add to or correct me as above or below. :help:
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Ok so now onto the other discussion part of this hopefully valuable thread.
Does The Mopar replacement thermostat as above fail to the open position or fails to the closed position?
Is there a better or more recommended replacement like a Prestone or MotoRad thermostat that will guarantee failing to the open position?
Or should we always use the Mopar Thermostat and why?

Should a complete cooling inspection including a 16 psi 2 minute pressure test be conducted before a flush?
What as owners should we be doing to our KJ..in between a flush ..like keeping the rad clean, checking the reservoir levels, cap pressure test..electric fan operations..hose inspect/replace..etc

With summer almost upon us & for further information, I want to add Troy has made a great statement in another thread which is really good info to know:
"Your electric fan does not turn on till about 219 degrees,heck your t-stat does not fully open till 218 degrees"
Post#11 Link: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/engine-temperatures-45992/index2.html

I assume That Troy's statement as above is with the 195 degree thermostat and air conditioning / compressor off as well.


Hopefully this helps search engines point to our Forum and answer the missing web info on the OEM spec of 195 degree on top of everything else!
I wonder to point to KJ country if tags could be beneficial to our threads? ;)
 
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02blue

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I actually thought all thermostats failed open these days. Now I'm wondering and worrying.

Still have to digest the rest but great food for thought in this thread. I'll be watching for more informed comments.
 

tjkj2002

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If your t-stat fails "open" you will get the MIL on with the P0128 code or similar which is "regulating temp not reach" or "to much time to regulated temp".Gotta watch out now even at the dealership as they started using OAT coolant(dexcool) for '13+ models.


I have seen more t-stats fail in the open or partial open state but have seen plenty of failed closed ones also.Skip the fail safe t-stats,they always fail a few days to a few weeks after install.The OEM t-stat is worth the extra $$$ just like the OEM radiator is worth it.




I'd recommend replacing the t-stat when you change the coolant but be aware it calls for 2 hours to change it,why I don't know as it's only a pain when you have HD cooling and the front skid plate.
 

LibertyTC

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Thank you for your professional very experienced input/reply Mr tjkj2002.

Very good to know that an open or closed thermostat is a real possibility & if it sticks partially open that you will get a MIL P0128 or similar & (engine light On)
And if it ever sticks closed..well You better hope you notice the temp gauge rising too far & shut it off! Good reason to put a new one in every 5 years!

A similar code condition may also be replicated by prolonged engine block heater use, where the outside temp is cool yet the bock heater has heated the engine very warm.
Basically the PCM sensors can be confused by the current temp sensor reading and majorly confuses PCM in believing the t-stat is opening to early. (hope I said that right)
Once you start the vehicle & run the kj after block heater use, the engine light should turn off though.

So basically make darn sure especially today that HOAT is used and recommend that you consider only a OEM T-Stat replacement at time of a flush at the 5 yr periods.

If after a rad pressure test or a rad leak is discovered, then also it is highly recommended an OEM replacement rad be considered a good, longer lasting investment & choice!
 
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SiRRuS

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Tailgating this Thread, Is there any lower temp opening Thermostat that fits the 2005 3.7L V6 renegade? It gets real hot where I live and it makes sense to get the coolant flowing sooner rather than later especially on the beach?

I know that there are a number of 180 Thermostats but there is mixed messages on them fitting or not:

Omix-Ada 17106.02
Mishimoto MMTS-JGC-99L

Thanks
 

tjkj2002

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Tailgating this Thread, Is there any lower temp opening Thermostat that fits the 2005 3.7L V6 renegade? It gets real hot where I live and it makes sense to get the coolant flowing sooner rather than later especially on the beach?

I know that there are a number of 180 Thermostats but there is mixed messages on them fitting or not:

Omix-Ada 17106.02
Mishimoto MMTS-JGC-99L

Thanks
Why?


Only will result in worse mpg's and most likely you will also get a code popping up for a failed open t-stat.
 

uss2defiant

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Does MOPAR part come with the gasket?

Maybe when the MOPAR search result for thermostat lists thermostat gasket to use RTV, it is referring to the thermostat housing gasket? Is the thermostat housing gasket required as well on top of the thermostat seal?

Thanks.
 
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LibertyTC

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I had mine replaced by dealer at time of flush so I never got to see it/does mentions dip new gasket in water...
If you want call the dealer and ask them if it is a separate part #..or included..??
Or is the black ring the gasket? Troy/Tom...please assist...
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tjkj2002

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Thanks for the reply.

Is this housing gasket required?
NAPA AUTO PARTS

or is the thermostat seal sufficient enough?
That seal shown in the pic is the only gasket you use.You will get leaks and a by-passing t-stat if you attempt to use 2 gaskets.


Also make sure to install the t-stat correctly in correlation with the gasket and housing.If using OEM t-stat/gasket you will see what I'm talking about when you look at the parts,there is a notched section in the gasket that matches the housing to correctly orientate the t-stat.
 

uss2defiant

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Not sure.

There's a slow leak from it and definitely not from the hose but between the housing and the engine.

I read that since it's plastic it could be a crack and might be causing the leak. It's hard to take a good look at it without taking it off.

No temperature issues as yet but just thought since it is a cheap part as the T-stat, I should just change it too.

What does your years of experience say?

Thanks!
 

tommudd

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Buy one and tear into it. If its cracked replace it, if not return it.
Or, I've got a couple of spares sitting around just in case anyone who's here may have an issue someday
 
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