Lots of crap in that web page,some is valid but most is crap.
1st it's not the '60's anymore and brake pads do not "outgas" like older pads.The temps required to make modern pads "outgas" is far beyond what the system can handle and will boil the brake fluid and melt any aluminum caliper/mounts in seconds.
2nd water in the brake fluid is not a concern anymore as most modern DOT 3/4 brake fluids have twice as high boiling points then brake fluid from the '80's and the amount of water needed to drastically reduce the boiling point is very high,much more then 3% nowdays.The biggest concern today is corrosion(not caused by water) that naturally occures when brake fluid and internals of ABS components are in contact for a long time.This is measured in copper content,when the copper content is 200ppm or greater it's time to flush the brake fluid.
3rd there are 2 forms of a "warped" rotor,1 is stated in that web page where pad material is melted on the rotor but is more commonly known as "hot spotting" and can not be turned,very easy to spot as you will see black "spots" on the rotor surface.The other is when the actual rotor actually warps beyond the max runout spec,and yes metal can actually warp when subjected to high heat then cooled often without material transfer in a friction type application like brakes.There is alot of vehicles out there that you must use a "on the car" brake lathe or you will get a shaking pedal/steering wheel,the KJ is not one of those vehicles.
4th is a "soft" brake pedal can be caused by much more then boiled brake fluid,more so if you have rear drums.
Oh and lastly your never "top off" the brake fluid level,this leads to very costly brake repairs if done.If you have a noticable reduction in brake fluid level between oil changes you have a leak,plain and simple as that much fluid loss is hundreds the amount that naturally will leak from a brake system through seals over time and I mean a long time as in years(10+).