Starter Replacement

Discussion in 'KJ General Discussion' started by LibertyFever, Sep 4, 2011.

  1. LibertyFever

    LibertyFever Full Access Member

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    I've begun to notice that lately my Libby doesn't easily start. The starter may be failing. Reading through the service manuals it appears that I have to partially dismantle the exhaust manifold, is this true?
     
  2. Bulli

    Bulli Full Access Member

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    On the 2.4 and 3.7 i know you have to remove a piece of the down pipe, 2 clamps. Diesels not to sure.
     
  3. LibertyFever

    LibertyFever Full Access Member

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    Doh!

    Sorry, I should have mentioned that my Libby is 3.7 L V6 gas powered.

    I haven't actually poked my head under the hood yet (it's been raining for the past three days) but from studying the service manual I seem to understand where the starter is and why the manifold must be partially dismantled.
     
  4. LibertyFever

    LibertyFever Full Access Member

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    Okay an update for everybody.

    The starter problem has begun to get worse quickly. It's not likely going to last the week and I have plans for an anual trail run this upcoming weekend.

    I've shopped around for a new starter and the cost of rebuilding the old one.

    #1. I don't have the time to remove my old one and have it rebuilt
    #2. if I buy an aftermarket there's a chance I'll get a model that won't fit so I'm going with a Mopar/Jeep brand new replacement (approx. $150)
    #3. I've found where the starter is on the engine and understand now why the manifold has to be disconnected. It's a real tight spot.
    #4. but the bolts require a short 10mm socket that I don't happen to have and they're in such a tight place that I can't budge them, not even the manifold nut
    #5. I have buddies of mine who are more than willing to help me replace the starter but I'm pressed for time & I really don't want to impose on them with what will likely be a frustrating job

    So I'm biting the bullet and orderings replacement starter from Mopar & having a local garage replace it for me. Maybe I'll have the old one rebuilt for the next time.
     
  5. JeepCoMJ

    JeepCoMJ Full Access Member

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    I just did a starter on an 02 3.7l limited today, without removing the exhaust manifolds at all.

    Tools needed;

    3/8 drive 15mm 6 point deep and shallow sockets
    3/8 drive 6" extension
    3/8 drive air ratchet
    3/8 drive impact
    1/4 drive 13mm deep well socket, 6 point
    1/4 drive 8mm deep well socket
    1/4 drive 6" extension (preferably swivel type extension)
    1/4 drive fine tooth ratchet
    10mm ratchet wrench
    small flat head or right angle pick
    12" pry bar
    small hammer (1/2lb ball pin worked just dandy)

    I started by disconnecting the battery, then removing the driveshaft bolts on both ends, then adjusting it and sliding it up and out of the way.

    After that, I took off the transmission to engine bellhousing brace. This is what the 3/8" extension and both 15mm sockets and the both air guns (ratchet and impact) are for.

    After that, I removed the heat shield from the starter, via the 3 10mm bolts (this is what the ratchet wrench is for. the Gear Wrench Flex-beams work nice for this)

    Then I unclipped the ignition engage wire from the starter with the right angle pick, and unbolted the plug adapter from the starter using the 1/4" ratchet, extension with swivel, and 8mm socket.

    Then use the 13mm deep 1/4" drive socket and ratchet without extension to unbolt the positive cable

    Following this, I unbolted the starter from the block. Once it was free, I was able to turn it 180 degrees so the solenoid was facing between the bell housing and the front pinion yoke.

    Slid it down, wiggled, realigned, slid it down further, where it bound just a tiny bit on the upper driver catalytic converter. At this point, I was able to slide the pry bar between the bell housing and starter, and coax it the last 1/4" to watch it drop to the floor.


    straight into the scrap pile, grab new starter, orient it appropriately, slide it in until it binds, and use a 1/2lb hammer to tap it in until it is just past binding, then realign and install opposite of removal process.


    I ended up deciding to go this route for two reasons.
    1.) my hands don't fit in by the exhaust manifolds to disconnect the upper 02 sensors
    2.) even in the best situation, a spring-loaded exhaust clamp, and a flange clamp, once they've started rusting, are NOT going to come out easily.



    Worked great for me, everything is ready to go.