So, today sucked pretty bad! ...

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hectikart

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I was down in VA for the holiday weekend and drove back to CT today (about 650 miles)

30 miles from home my malfunction indicator light starts flashing...ride starts to get rough and I notice that as I decelerate, I'm losing power and can't get it back....so I get off the next exit, which was less than 1/2 a mile. Get to the end of the off-ramp, red light, and it's idling very rough at less than 500rpm, can smell exhaust, and hear a ticking noise. Light turns green and it stalls on me. Takes about 3-4 times to get started again, and by then the light is red :mad3:

Light turns green, and I make it through the intersection, into the gas station...had it towed to a garage near my house and got a ride home. I'm guessing it has to be something with the exhaust system...I guess I'll find out from the garage tomorrow. Anyone else have this happen, or hear of anything like it?
 

yellocoyote

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Did you happen to get the MIL/CEL code(s)?

I had a crankshaft position sensor fail on mine last year... created similar symptoms as what you describe. Relatively inexpensive and easy to repair.
 
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tjkj2002

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Not to sound like a a$$ but if you actually looked in the owners manual a flashing MIL means that internal engine/cat damage is about to happen or already has happened and you should shut off the engine ASAP when your off the road safely.
 

hectikart

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Not to sound like a a$$ but if you actually looked in the owners manual a flashing MIL means that internal engine/cat damage is about to happen or already has happened and you should shut off the engine ASAP when your off the road safely.

Yeah, which is what I did. I could see the exit from where it started happening. so I got off the highway and shut it down. It was running for maybe a minute while I got off the highway and into the gas station which was right at the exit. Not like I kept pushing it till it died on the side of the road or something. Once I got it off the road I took out the manual and read what you're talking about. Just figured I would rather be stranded off the highway as opposed to the shoulder of a major interstate.

And I didn't get the codes, actually didn't see any codes display, just the flashing light.
 

tjkj2002

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Yeah, which is what I did. I could see the exit from where it started happening. so I got off the highway and shut it down. It was running for maybe a minute while I got off the highway and into the gas station which was right at the exit. Not like I kept pushing it till it died on the side of the road or something. Once I got it off the road I took out the manual and read what you're talking about. Just figured I would rather be stranded off the highway as opposed to the shoulder of a major interstate.

And I didn't get the codes, actually didn't see any codes display, just the flashing light.
Okay,just wanted to make sure.

The codes will not display themselfs,must do the key trick(only works on some years) or plug in a scanner.
 

yellocoyote

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Yep. Iginition trick works in mine... you could try in yours: key gets turned to on-off-on-off-on (that many times). Code would display where your odometer is.
 

hectikart

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Thanks, I should have tried to get codes..

But I did talk to the shop this morning and the news is not good. I have zero compression in cylinder #1. They can barely get it moving around the lot into the garage. He suspects a valve is stuck or dropped. Potentially a valve job, which he quoted to be at least $2000...that's assuming the valve didn't drop and damage a piston which means a new engine at double the price of the valve job.

I have a friend thats also a mechanic and would help me remove the head so I could send it out to a machine shop, so I may go that route.

I'm just really pissed that I'm having major problems at 87,000 miles. I perform regular maintenance so it really seems ridiculous. But I've read posts of other people needing valve jobs at 30k, 50k, 70k, and a lot around 100k. I am the second owner..only had it the last 25,000 miles, so I don't know how it was treated before me, but still..this doesn't seem like an uncommon problem.

But right now I'm basically saying now what...I can either do a full valve job and go on with life. I can just do the bad valves, but then who's to say another won't just have the same problem soon. If I do that I'll probably trade it or sell it...
 

Paul M

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Weak valve spring retainer design...happens all the time. Heads come from dealer fully assembled, but a decent mechanic could make the rebuild repair. One of the heads on ours failed at 90K - literally overnight after driving it home 100 miles the night before without issue. I think about when the other head will fail (probably while 50 miles from home in the backwoods.)
 
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yellocoyote

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I have a friend thats also a mechanic and would help me remove the head so I could send it out to a machine shop, so I may go that route.

That's what we did with mine. Total repair with rebuilt head and all gaskets was under $400. That was almost 2 years ago.
 

hectikart

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Well that inspires some confidence. Thanks! How much was a new head from the dealer?

I do love my KJ and don't want to get rid of it..especially since I just did the suspension a couple months ago. I'll probably have my friend help me replace both heads or have both machined.

Are the new heads from the dealer re-designed in any way to prevent this from happening?
 
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JeepJeepster

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Is there anything that can be done to prevent this. Are there upgrades (ie, better spring retainers) that can be put in?
 

Paul M

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Well that inspires some confidence. Thanks! How much was a new head from the dealer?

I do love my KJ and don't want to get rid of it..especially since I just did the suspension a couple months ago. I'll probably have my friend help me replace both heads or have both machined.

Are the new heads from the dealer re-designed in any way to prevent this from happening?

Not cheap for the entire job ($2800+) but call Chrysler Care, they sent me a check for $1500.
 

rockymountain

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Is there anything that can be done to prevent this. Are there upgrades (ie, better spring retainers) that can be put in?

Yeah, X a gazilion. Seems like no matter if you take care of these or not they are failing. Is there anything we can do? Maybe it would be easy just to replace valve retainers and springs before they break?

Every time a hear a new tick I get sick to my stomach. So is there anything to do proactively to help prevent this?
 

hectikart

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Not cheap for the entire job ($2800+) but call Chrysler Care, they sent me a check for $1500.

Yea I know who I'll be on the phone with first thing Monday morning! Hopefully I can get some money back from it.
 

hectikart

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So I just got off the phone with Chrysler...They basically said "Sorry, that's too bad, we feel bad for you but there's nothing we can do." BS :emotions122:
 

rockymountain

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did yours ever overheat or anything? I notice now you have replaced the radiator. Did it overheat before? Just wondering.
 

tjkj2002

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Yeah, X a gazilion. Seems like no matter if you take care of these or not they are failing. Is there anything we can do? Maybe it would be easy just to replace valve retainers and springs before they break?

Every time a hear a new tick I get sick to my stomach. So is there anything to do proactively to help prevent this?
I run the living piss out of mine,hits the rev limiter at least 10 times a day and that is in 14 miles(round trip from home to work).Mines a '02 which is supposed to have all the valve spring/valve seat issues.

The intake/TB is spotless,never cleaned it, but don't drive like a grandpa either.Change my oil every 1500 miles,PCV valve once a year,run premium gas,and swap out plugs every year also.It's ticked from day one,no worse or better in 87,000 miles of being rode hard and put away wet.



A word to the wise,if your heads have any warpage there toast and buy new ones.Having them decked will only postpone a head gasket issue for a few months.
 

hectikart

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did yours ever overheat or anything? I notice now you have replaced the radiator. Did it overheat before? Just wondering.

Nope, I've never overheated it. My radiator blew up and was leaking really badly, but I just kept refilling it every 10-15 miles to get myself home from work and swap it out. I guess it's just bad luck. When I talked to Chrysler today, they told me I'm the third owner...dealer told me I was the second when I bought it, and I could have sworn that the carfax said the same...who knows what the previous owners did to it, or neglected to do.

tjkj - I'll keep that in mind regarding warped heads. I'm still debating whether to have them machined or but new from the dealer. Probably going to try to have them machined if possible, really need this fixed as cheap as possible. If I have them do a complete valve job, will that generally include replacement of all valve springs, and theoretically prevent this from happening again in the future?
 
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