Shifting problem & engine codes

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604KJ

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I've been having a shifting problem for the last couple of months & have not looked into it seriously because it comes and goes randomly. Before today, I haven't seen the codes come up or had trouble shifting for about 2 months.

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Step By step of how this happens;
1: Going up hill (most of the time its uphill, also has happened in stop and go traffic on a level rd)
2: Constantly struggling to stay in gear, shifting up and down multiple times
3: Gradually giving more gas to maintain a gear (usually giving it more gas trying to pass someone when on the level rd)
4: Sudden jerk, shoots into a higher gear, loud high rev
5: Wont shift down when you left of the gas, wont shift up if you give it more
6: I pull over, turn it off for a few min, turn it on again and it seems to be fine
until next time...

Because its seems fine after I turn it off and it doesn't come back for a while, I clear the codes so the engine light is off.

What causes this & how can i fix it?
I hope this problem is not one of those where it could be 20 different things...please help if you can!
 
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LibertyTC

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Ok...how many KM ..are now on your KJ?
On a level surface after driving for 20 minutes, IN Neutral jeep running..hand Brake on is your fluid at the full mark? How is the color of fluid and smells clean not burnt?
Have you serviced the transmission with fresh fluid & filter lately or had dealer do it?
 
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604KJ

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Im about 110K right now.
2 Months ago when I was experiencing this problem I took it into my regular tune up shop for a Trans fluid flush. When they were done, they told me they didn't flush it because it had too Low KM and that could damage it. They replaced the Filter and Pan gasket only, other than that they said all was good. I have noticed a minor burning smell when I'm going at higher speeds...don't know if thats relevant or not..? Would all of this have something to do with the cooling system?
 
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LibertyTC

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Wow...ok..Are you sure 100% that they used ATF+4 in there ?
ONLY 110,000 KM or miles?
Tom Sending you a PM....
 

604KJ

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I went to Mister Transmission yesterday, pulled the pan and found metal shards all over the magnet, and clutch material build up. They told me to know exactly what was wrong they need to pull the transmission apart which would've cost me $500, and would have not fixed anything. Put everything back together and I asked for a ballpark cost for a teardown, fix & rebuild..I was told at least $1800 + whatever the cost of parts needing to be replaced.

I want to phone around and get some quotes from other shops, but don't know what I should be asking to be fixed. Would anybody here have some input as to what could be falling apart in there, what it probably wont be, worst case scenario etc... ?

I know nothing about transmissions, and don't want to be getting ripped off or having to pay for something that is not necessary.
 

ftaa

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if you turen the overdrive off does it do the same thing? its proy the overdrive clutch pack ... mine is doing the same thing if i turn the od off it is good.... when going on the highway if you need to go up hil just turn the od off.... it coud be od fluid... thin fluid and not getting it to the clutch for od... i thin 4th (od) and 2nd share the same cutch pac ... once the cuth pac is gone ... you need a ******
 

ftaa

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the code you suppied is the soenoid code... so ... i could be wrong.
 

604KJ

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Don't think OD off changes anything. Going uphill on a highway I would usually turn it off because the jeep could never maintain a speed, it would just get slower and slower. Turning OD off it would shift a gear and maintain a steady speed. Thats always been the case though, been doing that long before these shifting problems came about.
 

LibertyTC

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Here is the way to electronically test to verify shifting problems.
This explains about modern test equipment from folks that know hot to use it.
Good series with more videos to see for the tear down & repair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FePWUkZXZyY&list=PLAvS7dDmwYw9F4zsV2e8jZbgaxjBVUZaI
If you have clutch material etc that will be the clutch packs. Rebuild is in order.
And they will not know all what is wrong until it is torn down.
Still an electronic test should be done before hand and if they dont know what they are doing walk away.
Stan's transmission up on Kingsway could possibly be one alternative.
The more you replace the more it is going to cost.
Ask Stan or Mgr, in the rebuild process, what exactly in updated parts will he use?
Ask about master rebuild kit,solenoids, valve body, clutch pack etc.
Before rebuilding one, I sure would like to know how much $ a new rebuilt from dealer with a good warranty would cost.
Rebuilding done right is good rebuilding done wrong scares me.
I want to add that regardless of who does the rebuild, flushing out the transmission lines etc is an absolute must and a good shop should know to do this.

I also want to state that you must be absolutely certain that ATF+4 fluid only, gets used in your transmission!!
Going to your regular tune up shop for a Trans fluid service or flush scares me.
The dealer has the proper training/techs & Transmission Fluid Recirculating machine.
I think I paid the Dealership $130 to do the service using their techs & machine. Well worth it.
 
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604KJ

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Ended up getting the torque converter & solenoid assembly replaced ($2500), said it was falling apart and chucking metal everywhere. Everything works perfectly now and I got them to put in the Transgo shift kit while they were at it. They recommended turning O/D off for city driving but not for highway, will that help things work better?
 

LibertyTC

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Tom Glad to hear you have the trans repaired & up to speed.
If there was lots of metal, I hope they flushed all the lines.
I would say that most of us do indeed turn the overdrive off in town or up to 50mph.
Basically then you have no 4th gear and it stops the roaming 3rd to 4th & uphills etc.
Even at freeway speeds, I will turn the overdrive off before I need to climb a steep hill and put the pedal down, to help blow the dust out LOL..
 
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