Rear differential problems

[4Factor]

Long story short... '04 Liberty needs a left rear axle seal replaced so off to the dealership... work gets done (supposedly).
As I leave and read the receipt I see that they replaced the FRONT dirvers side axle seal (WTF??) so I go back and they haul out the mechanic and without any "coaching" they ask whether he did the front or the rear. He says he did the rear, and the receptionist must've mixed it up when typing the receipt, so off I go.

Now the liberty rear end grinds and shudders when turning (right or left). Since I have a Trac-Lok differential and the fluid was supposedly replaced I'm guessing that they didn't use the friction modifier. They list the seal, the RTV sealant and (one) fluid, but no mention of any modifiers or the like.

So now that I've driven it for a day (over 160 miles... busy day) and it's shuddered violently on every corner, what can I expect them to see when they open it back up? I'm guessing I'm in for a new differential? Any ideas?

What's the part number for the PROPER lubricant and also the # for the modifier?

 

[Silver Streak]

The limited slip additive is available at most any good parts store. I think i paid about $5 for a toothpaste type tube of it a year or so back. And you might want to consider using instead, the Synthetic gear oil offered by Valvoline and others as well. It comes with the additive already mixed in properly. You can also buy regular conventional mineral gear oil with the additive already mixed in of course. If you get the limited slip additive in the tube and add it in yourself, it is basically painless. It only takes about 5ml i think it said on the tube i have. About a teaspoon or so i guess. All that is written on the tube, and any good parts store will know what you need and have it in stock.
The synthetic is what i use, because i often tow an RV trailer with my CRD and Jeep says for towing you should use the full synthetic. It is much more durable oil of course.

Silver Streak
`05 CRD Sport

 

[2003KJ]

Dont really know a whole lot about the limited slip things. But it's probably toasted now from driving it around with out the additive in it. I wouldn't think that it would damage the entire differential however. One would think you could just have them put a new Trac-Lok in, and make sure you get any pieces of anything that might be inside differential out, and fresh new fluid put in with the proper additive.

 

[Guyute1210]

I would definitely take it back and have them fix it right this time.

 

[4Factor]

Took it back to the dealership this morning(9:00am). They took it right away without an appointment (usually books a week in advance). Just got off the phone with them (12:30pm). They took it apart again and found no damage, the mechanic admitted he forgot the friction modifier (guess he didn't see the big green tag "TRAC-LOK" on the axle) and it's all ready to go... this time with the friction modifier.

Now with this latest little problem, can we really be sure that there was no damage to the Trac-lok? Or am I just sitting on a problem that won't rear it's ugly head until just after the warranty is up? That coupled with my previous hiccups and I'm just tired of the problems and the cost of owning this vehicle.

Any way you slice it, this vehicle will be returned whenever it becomes affordable to do so. I've already looked into breaking the lease (2 months ago) and DC wanted approx $5000 ($5600 CAD) + the keys for me to walk away. The vehicle was given "premium" condition by DC's appraiser, he noted that there's not a scratch or flaw on her. They even went as far as to give me 2 new bolts for the licence plate since the originals were showing small rust spots (yes that's how thourough they were, and how pristine the Liberty is). I'll revisit it in a year when (they assured me) I'll do much better, maybe even get some money towards another vehicle. If I have to stay with DC to get money towards another vehicle then maybe a Caliber is in the cards... maybe even a diesel Caliber if they bring that out instead of "Europe only"

So another year of treating this thing like a trailer queen and I'll be done with it. notcool.gif sad2.gif notcool.gif

 

[Straight6Jeff]

Fear not about any damage. Every time you make a turn with any type of clutch-LSD, it is wearing out. The chattering you were feeling was the clutches not slipping, which is tougher on other driveline components, but better for the LSD. Most LSD carriers are smoked or getting smoked by 50k miles. There is a balance between too much friction modifier (LSD won't enagage at all) and not enough modifier (ie...chatter). On my 02 Dodge ram 3500, the facotry LSD never worked properly from the factory. At 3k miles, I restacked the clutch packs to give more effective friction area. At about 7k, I replaced it with a detroit locker. I have set up many rear-diffs, and the quality and tolerances from the factory on all manufactureres varies greatly. Dana has probably the worst track record with thier LSD. Their housings, axles and components are fairly bomb-proof, but their carriers have wide swings in quality.

The clutch packs are easy to replace in these carriers, and parts usually run in the $75 range.

At 2k miles, I swapped in the Detroit Tru-Trac. It is a gear driven LSD. Very nice piece. A bit more backlash felt on the coast to drive exchange, but well worth the extra traction.

HMM, I seemed ot have gotten a bit long winded...time for more coffee....

 

[Renegade Flex]

I was told by a mechanic that the diff fluids should be flushed and replaced every 20,000 miles. Is this accurate? I'm at about 24K and havent changed it yet because I think he said it was a $100 job.

Does this sound right to you guys?

 

[Silver Streak]

Jeep says change it at 12.5K miles. It is in your owners manual, as well as the service manual, both of them say change the drive axle oil at 12.5K miles. If you tow a trailer they say you absolutely must use the synthetic gear oil. If you replace it with synthetic I figure you could double the distance it will last, but that is just my opinion. I run the synthetic Valvoline, and change it every 25K.

Silver Streak
`05 CRD Sport