Radiator core bulging

Jar

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New here. I have a 2006 65TH anniversary edition 3.7. The factory radiator failed around 90K(8yrs ago) It has failed again at 137K. The lower core expands and starts leaking at the seam. The water pump was leaking the first time this happened; so I replaced the radiator,water pump and the thermostat. Not sure what may be causing this to happen. Is this common?
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JeepJeepster

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Cant tell whats bulging in the photo, but yes, its fairly common for radiators with plastic end caps to leak or crack. Just replaced my original radiator a couple weeks ago. Guess 17 years is pretty good, I went with another mopar unit.
 

Jar

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Cant tell whats bulging in the photo, but yes, its fairly common for radiators with plastic end caps to leak or crack. Just replaced my original radiator a couple weeks ago. Guess 17 years is pretty good, I went with another mopar unit.
If you look at the picture; it has an arch down. The factory radiator went around 7 to 8 years on mine. I put a duralast in, and it lasted about the same amount of time. I have a 2002 durango 4.7 that i bought new and it has 195K. Never changed the radiator in it. Guess the previous owner may have abused it alittle. Bought the Liberty in 2012 with 68K. Thanks for the in put!
 

Jar

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Yes if you go with cheap ones in a few miles you'll be doing it again
What is a good one? The factory one failed at about 80K. It had 68K in 2012 when I bought it. I do not know the maintanence history up to the point that I bought it. Do you have a suggestion on brand (MOPAR) or other. 7 to 8 years with Mopar and 8 years with Duralast. I would like this to be my last radiator. Your input much appreciated. Thanks in advance! I have a 2002 durango with 195K and still has the factory radiator(bought it new)
 

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I see a rust spot caused by a leak at some point, corrosion exacerbated by the HOAT and heat reacting with the bits. I also see what I think is the bulge. If it were me, I’d be replacing the radiator. To my eyes I see the signs of multiple issues, current and past. I wonder if the bulge was caused by the attempt to flush a dinged and/or blocked system.
Ripley said to “…nuke the site from orbit- it’s the only way to be sure.” I’d follow that advice with a new radiator.
 

Burro II

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At third radiator install I went to a 7 lb cap. I think the caps either get tight/stuck or are out of spec. I do a lot of high altitude driving and was not sure if the 7 lb cap would be sufficient. It only sends a little coolant into the overflow tank after shutoff. No problems so far. No overheating or spilling coolant on the ground.
Don't really know if this helped, but the plastic tank has not split on me again like the first two, including a Mopar.

Also I went with a higher coolant concentration. I can't remember the ratio. I looked on the chart on the container for the highest boiling point or thereabouts IIRC.
 

lfhoward

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My OEM radiator lasted 177k and I replaced it with another Mopar.

I think if former owners used the wrong coolant type (something other than HOAT or Zerex G05) the green stuff will cause excess corrosion or clogging. Mopar + HOAT should last a good while.
 

LabRat

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My OEM radiator lasted 177k and I replaced it with another Mopar.

I think if former owners used the wrong coolant type (something other than HOAT or Zerex G05) the green stuff will cause excess corrosion or clogging. Mopar + HOAT should last a good while.
Yup.
 

Jar

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At third radiator install I went to a 7 lb cap. I think the caps either get tight/stuck or are out of spec. I do a lot of high altitude driving and was not sure if the 7 lb cap would be sufficient. It only sends a little coolant into the overflow tank after shutoff. No problems so far. No overheating or spilling coolant on the ground.
Don't really know if this helped, but the plastic tank has not split on me again like the first two, including a Mopar.

Also I went with a higher coolant concentration. I can't remember the ratio. I looked on the chart on the container for the highest boiling point or thereabouts IIRC.
Thanks. I will change the cap with the radiator. How long has the cap and coolant change worked now?
 

JeepJeepster

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At third radiator install I went to a 7 lb cap. I think the caps either get tight/stuck or are out of spec. I do a lot of high altitude driving and was not sure if the 7 lb cap would be sufficient. It only sends a little coolant into the overflow tank after shutoff. No problems so far. No overheating or spilling coolant on the ground.
Don't really know if this helped, but the plastic tank has not split on me again like the first two, including a Mopar.

Also I went with a higher coolant concentration. I can't remember the ratio. I looked on the chart on the container for the highest boiling point or thereabouts IIRC.

Ive got a Jeep thats had a leaking end cap for many years now... The radiator cap is bad so it never builds pressure, working great! Ive even towed a boat in 90F heat, no issues.
 
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tommudd

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What is a good one? The factory one failed at about 80K. It had 68K in 2012 when I bought it. I do not know the maintanence history up to the point that I bought it. Do you have a suggestion on brand (MOPAR) or other. 7 to 8 years with Mopar and 8 years with Duralast. I would like this to be my last radiator. Your input much appreciated. Thanks in advance! I have a 2002 durango with 195K and still has the factory radiator(bought it new)
Buddy replaced his with a Duralast, then replaced it again and again until he got fed up after 10 or so replacements and went Mopar
never another issue
 

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