Questions about lifting '07 Liberty / camber

[Awww KJ]

I've done a lot of reading in this forum and I'm closer to doing a very minimal lift. Still on stock Goodyears and about to get replacement Michelin LTX M/S in stock size. The stock tires on the front are getting chewed on their inboard tread faster than outboard so I'll get an alignment too.

I have bought some conduit nuts and had planned on likely doing the clevis lift. I know this is about 3/8" max at the strut/clevis and equals 5/8" or 3/4" at the wheel?

I'm going to skip the spacer plates up top so that there isn't any question of whether the arm to spring interference occurs.

If I wanted to also do additional rear spring insulators in the rear, should I do 1 extra (2 total) insul. per spring to do a similar (5/8" to 3/4") lift in the rear? And will the rear shocks work w/ that?

Oh, and on slight droop, does the top of the tire move out (pos. camber curve) or in (neg. camber curve?) I think I can do the clevis without immediately going in for an alignment, but wanted to make sure.

Thanks!
(PS: ultimately, I'd like to do JBA arms and about a 2" or 2.5" lift w/ 245/75 tires but that's not in the budget for now. Yes, I'm aware that the stock shocks are already junk at current mileage per my reading on here. )

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

It's a negative camber curve.

After being freshly lifted, ThunderbirdJunkie's KJ had about 2.5 degrees of negative camber...he was able to dial that back in to about 1 degree with about 2 degrees of caster.

However, your inside edgewear is not due to camber, it's likely toe that's killing them.

 

[Awww KJ]

Thanks for the quick R. I'll schedule everything at one time then.
I'm not tackling alignment myself at this time. I'm currently just up to doing my own tire mounting / balancing and have a bad habit of having to have tools that I seldom use.