Been having problems when i accelerate and it needs to downshit i get a dead spot then it kicks. Fluid looks good did a pan drop and fluid refresh twice in the past two years. Does anyone know what it could be. Should i change out all the sensors? Should i pull the valve body? Do i need a new trans? How do i test the solenoid pack? Since its a 2002 i got the 45rfe. Let me know guys. When i got the CEL it was put in a sort of half assed limp she would shift hard out of first and then that was it. We were on the way to the zoo so i parked it and came back couple hours later and it was out of this limp mode and ran like she has been not great but shifting. Being that i live in chicago any trans shop or dealer is gonna see the miles and tell me i need a new ******. Which is really not in the cards. Just started my apprenticeship as a stationary engineer and i am not exactly rolling in the dough yet.
P0734
- Thread starter Jbergun
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renegade 04
Full Access Member
You may have a line pressure problem, have you tried a line pressure booster?
You mention that you did a pan drop and fluid refresh twice in the past two years...
Did you replace both filters & make sure they were tight?
How many miles on KJ?
Generally the code is clutch pack/ slipping.
Did you replace both filters & make sure they were tight?
How many miles on KJ?
Generally the code is clutch pack/ slipping.
Replaced both filters and the second change was due to the sump filter coming loose so when i changed the filter the second time i made sure the sump was properly installed and the spin on i mean i didnt crank it on but its tight. I got damn near 180k miles on my kj. All original equipment as far as i know.
Another bit of info when this was all going down the jeep was running pretty hot for the outside air temp. The coolant temp was between 203 and 207 never over 207 and intake was like 135-145. Considering i was sitting in stop and go in this half assed limp and it was about 75 degrees i think that was pretty warm. I do have the hayden extreme duty fan clutch installed and usually only see those temps in the summer (90 degrees) with the ac on in traffic. Information received via elm 327 and dashcommand app.
Man that's a pretty massive heat build up.
Speaking from experience, I threw several hundred bucks at mine at "cheap" fixes, hindsight I wish I would've paid the $90 diag fee from the start at a reputable trans shop. Dealer didn't want to diagnose it, just wanted to throw parts at it. A shop will pull the CVIs (Clutch value index) and it will tell you how shot the clutches are, which that code for the 4th gear clutch.
I know you don't wanna outlay the cash for a new trans now, but, I think it's better to spend $90 and know the exact issue, rather than a few $100 fixes and taking a while to figure it out. A few people on here referred me to shops in the Chicagoland area that did rebuilds for around $1500-2000, which is better than what I paid (about $4-5k with upgrades).
Speaking from experience, I threw several hundred bucks at mine at "cheap" fixes, hindsight I wish I would've paid the $90 diag fee from the start at a reputable trans shop. Dealer didn't want to diagnose it, just wanted to throw parts at it. A shop will pull the CVIs (Clutch value index) and it will tell you how shot the clutches are, which that code for the 4th gear clutch.
I know you don't wanna outlay the cash for a new trans now, but, I think it's better to spend $90 and know the exact issue, rather than a few $100 fixes and taking a while to figure it out. A few people on here referred me to shops in the Chicagoland area that did rebuilds for around $1500-2000, which is better than what I paid (about $4-5k with upgrades).
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Here's some info on the line pressure booster: Line Pressure Booster Kits | Sonnax
I'd get the diagnosis that HJ spoke of before I did anything. Might save you money in the long run.
I'd get the diagnosis that HJ spoke of before I did anything. Might save you money in the long run.
I agree that a diagnostic would be very helpful but last time i tried this every shop was already trying to sell me a trans. No joke telling me i should just save the money to put towards a new/rebuilt trans. Over the phone not even seeing the jeep. I am sure there are some good reputable shops in chicago but they are out numbered 20:1. Been here my whole life still havnt found a trustworthy mechanic. I will make some calls tomorrow see what i can do.
Update: drove 1.5hrs with a 45min break in the middle and the CEL turned off and i got all my shifts. I did not do a forced downshift via the gas pedal as this has been the problem and i didnt wanna poke the beast with my wife and kid in the it.
Update: drove 1.5hrs with a 45min break in the middle and the CEL turned off and i got all my shifts. I did not do a forced downshift via the gas pedal as this has been the problem and i didnt wanna poke the beast with my wife and kid in the it.
If that 4th gear clutch is anything like the TC clutch was on mine, if you kept the heat below a certain threshold it wouldn't act up. Heat makes them slip and act up if it's borderline bad/ failing.
Thanks for all the help debating if i want to run till its done or work on saving it. I just always read the 45rfe was a tank behind the v8s. Figured it was a safe bet to assume it would last forver with the 3.7
Well... to be fair, before your last two fluid/filter changes, when was the transmission serviced? Even a tank of a trans still needs to be maintained. 190k miles is still pretty good.
The trans gods are the only ones that know the answer to that. I bought the jeep going on 5 years ago with 119k. The first fluid refresh it wasnt black or nasty no big metal chunks just the black dusty stuff at the bottom of the pan. I get what your saying she has lived her life.
WWell nothing much to lose then.... At this point I'd try anything. If it gets you another year or so id call that a success.
If i can make her live 1.5 years i am golden i will be through with the apprenticeship and doing alot better for myself. I figure if i have to drop a trans in there a year and a half is nothing.
Update: drove a solid hour on LSD lake shore drive for anyone thinking i was on acid. No problems monitored the temps outside air 55 coolant 190-195 intake 75-85. Shifted smooth acted normal i did not force a downshift as i said thats when it will really act up.
Maybe put a nice external trans cooler on her and run it for a while, see how it goes. Your thinking about getting by for a year or so is exactly what I was thinking... putting a trans in there on an otherwise solid vehicle that is paid off is worth it, if it's of value to you.
I always think of it this way, a car payment on a used car based on the price I usually shoot for, is roughly $2400 per year. If I have to put that amount or less into repairs in my Jeep (or any other vehicle that is paid for), then I did good and came out ahead or broke even.
The other way to see it is...let's say this runs 3 grand. What other vehicle could you buy for 3 grand that you like as much as the KJ, or will be as mechanically sound after the new trans?
Thats the thing i can get another kj for that or less but it could be a shit show or worse. My jeep never really had any trans issues. Until a few weeks ago we went to target and when we came out it woukdnt go anywhere. So i thought maybe the brakes were locked so i put it in neutral and pushed it. That wasnt it. So i put it in reverse and gave it some gas until it moved. Which it did but it wasnt happy. I had parked ot up for a few days and when i went to take it to the garage to get wrenching. It would t start or take a jump. Went and got a battery and she ran fine. Put in drive and it rolled forward and vice versa. I need to drop the pan and see what i got in there check the valve body and filters.
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