Old noobie buys a KJ

duderz7

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Driveshafts are entirely rebuildable and usually the way to go. Even if you're not up for doing it yourself it's usually not a huge expense at a driveline specialty shop.
 

sleazy rider

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Driveshafts are entirely rebuildable and usually the way to go. Even if you're not up for doing it yourself it's usually not a huge expense at a driveline specialty shop.
I bought the CV rebuild kit and have the skills and tools to do it. The driveshaft will be replaced. It's NFG. It's rusted up so bad, I can't get it out of the transfer case mounting point. I have a huge cold chisel and 2 pound sledge hammer trying to beat it out. It's not moving. The front came right out, easy peasy.


Welcome to the salty north.
 

sleazy rider

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HAH!

Never argue with a persistent man, PB Blaster penetrating oil and his sledgehammer. Hey, the CV is only slightly mangled and chipped. I may be able to save this patient. The rest of the shaft looks fine. Tomorrow. My tendonitis is flared up real bad in the right wrist.
 

DadOSix

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Lost the CV joint to long term damage from the PO. Beyond saving IMO.
Replace the cv? Driveshaftparts.com has each available for not too much money.

i keep a spare of each and replace both when i have a bad cv. Most folks note it is usually the rear one.

i'm a guy who does both since i had to drop the shaft anyway.
 

sleazy rider

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Replace the cv? Driveshaftparts.com has each available for not too much money.

i keep a spare of each and replace both when i have a bad cv. Most folks note it is usually the rear one.

i'm a guy who does both since i had to drop the shaft anyway.
Yeah, bought a rear CV from them last year when I parked it and drove the van to Houston for the winter. As much trouble as I had when pulling the shaft, I guessed it was all toast. Just trying to find the instruction sheet for it now. I put it somewhere for safekeeping after reading it. Must be somewhere real secure. :eek:

Gotta mount my new in box vise first. *It's* only been sitting on the shelf for 3 years because it wasn't needed immediately. I have some work for it now. CV, then doing new grips on the old golf clubs.
 

DadOSix

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Yeah, bought a rear CV from them last year when I parked it and drove the van to Houston for the winter. As much trouble as I had when pulling the shaft, I guessed it was all toast. Just trying to find the instruction sheet for it now. I put it somewhere for safekeeping after reading it. Must be somewhere real secure. :eek:

Gotta mount my new in box vise first. *It's* only been sitting on the shelf for 3 years because it wasn't needed immediately. I have some work for it now. CV, then doing new grips on the old golf clubs.
I've got a sealed up one in my bin.

i can scan and email / or post here if you need.
 

sleazy rider

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Nahhh, it’s all good. Not like I’ve never done this stuff. All put together and sealed up. Didn’t think I’d ever use those clamp pliers again. ATVs and SxSs use a similar setup.

Forgot to add the thanks to ya. /thumbsup!
 
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sleazy rider

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I'm an idjit. Apparently, when I put the new battery in, unnoticed, I knocked the rubber mounted vaccuum solenoid off the tab and suddenly this week, I had evap leak codes. Hmmm, what could it be. Yup, broke one of the solid plastic lines at the solenoid. A quick dig thru the spare parts locker and I had a flexible vinyl hose in hand with the proper diameter. Quick snip to get the right length and voila! Codes reset.

It's bad enough when stuff fails, but don't accelerate the process yourself, dummy!
 

sleazy rider

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Some more preventative maintenance prior to driving to Texas for the winter again. Radiator hoses, chemical flush, new overflow tank (absolutely nasty) and thermostat with flush and fresh coolant. Toss in a new GATES serpentine belt and tensioner because last change date is unknown (and the air conditioning compressor pulley just started squealing. Having the A/C freon level checked too. Fingers crossed it's not the compressor clutch.

It's always sumpin'.
 

sleazy rider

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Plugs arrived in the mail today, so easy peasy swap. Then I realized The coolant tank pretty much has to come out. Back in the house to grab the new tank! Everything went swimmingly. New NGK plugs to replace the crappy Champions in it. Dielectric grease on coils to slide right back on and keep water out. New, clean tank went right in too. 30 minutes total.

Fired up, settled into a much smoother idle and a smile crossed the lips.

Hope the coolant flush and new radiator hoses go as easy.
 

sleazy rider

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Jinxed myself. Drain on radiator is disfunctional. Top hose clamps cooperated nicely, but the bottom clamps snapped. Ended up prying them off and then ran clear water thru the radiator.

/puke

Seriously nasty and chunky. Soon as the local auto parts opens, I’m off for new clamps, thermostat with gasket, radiator flush and antifreeze.

Gonna try the compressor air gun at about 20 psi to blast back thru the drain and see if it clears. Would really help the process along.
 

sleazy rider

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Really?

Ran up the whole three miles to the local Jeep dealer for some OEM hose clamps because I despise worm clamps. “Oh, we don’t have any but the dealer 20 miles away has some.”

Gee, thanks! Off to ACO for two temporary worm clamps to get the flush done at least. Got it all put back together and ran the flush stuff for 15 minutes. Gonna let it cool down and drain the entire system again.
 
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JRB

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Really?

Ran up the whole three miles to the local Jeep dealer for some OEM hose clamps because I despise worm clamps. “Oh, we don’t have any but the dealer 20 miles away has some.”

Gee, thanks! Off to ACO for two temporary worm clamps to get the flush done at least. Got it all put back together and ran the flush stuff for 15 minutes. Gonna let it cool down and drain the entire system again.

I ran into that problem with my tj few years ago.

Went to the local parts store to get some temp ones like you, to find they've downsized their worm clamp selection. They moved them behind the counter, and had about 9 paper thin sizes to choose from.

Then went to nappa as it's a little farther to find they revamped their store, taking away half the aisles, and stocking more cheezy parts like the discount auto parts stores in my area.

I try to support local businesses rather than buy online if I can, but it's getting harder and harder to do so in my area.
 

sleazy rider

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Not saying the belt tensioner was bad, but when I put the ratchet on it to take tension off the belt, it stayed where I turned it. Gates kit installed, a/c compressor not squealing and the coolant flush has me back to get warm heat in the cockpit right now.
 

sleazy rider

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I ran into that problem with my tj few years ago.

Went to the local parts store to get some temp ones like you, to find they've downsized their worm clamp selection. They moved them behind the counter, and had about 9 paper thin sizes to choose from.

Then went to nappa as it's a little farther to find they revamped their store, taking away half the aisles, and stocking more cheezy parts like the discount auto parts stores in my area.

I try to support local businesses rather than buy online if I can, but it's getting harder and harder to do so in my area.

The kicker was he printed off an eBay listing and handed it to me saying this is what you need. No kidding, I got the original in my hand!
 
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sleazy rider

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On a roll. After cleaning up the engine bay from the coolant swap and new belt system, the interior got the vacuum treatment. After that, the brush guard light bar got it's juice pipes installed. Turned it on and realized it was just a tad out of alignment, so fixed that. Room for one more switch to control the rear lights yet to be installed.

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sleazy rider

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AARGH!!!

Old beastie decided it hadn't gotten enough love apparently. Went to golf yesterday morning running fine with plenty of fun in the right foot pedal, left the course and the engine started stuttering under load and a CEL. Got home, checked codes and had a bunch. P0031, P0051. P0306, P0136 and P1598. Misses on both banks, O2 sensors and PCM code. Sounds like the down pipe of the exhaust has a leak now too.

Disconnected the battery, did the terminal tie thing first. While it was disconnected, I pulled the connectors on the PCM to check for corrosion - clean and shiny. Cleared all the codes when the battery was reconnected and hasn't reset any, but the stuttering still exists with a noticeable lack of power.

I'm resorting to my backup plan for the September trip to Houston and taking the old rusty Transit Connect.


Suggestions? Take it out to the back 40 and administer the lead pellet?
 

sleazy rider

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Gave the old van some love today instead. New plugs and coils for it. Glad I did. They were slightly well used and had some oil in the #4 spark plug well. It's right next to the engine oil fill, so I KNOW how that happened. Right, Quick Lube? :mad:
 
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