Max tire size with Ironman 4x4 1.5" lift?

Bigfootyetti

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You are wrong, sorry , well unless you want to keep replacing rear shocks, one inch lift , one inch of bumpstop etc
Thanks for setting that straight, I'll get some in there. I guess I'm still not sure why they're needed? The rear springs aren't physically longer, but have a higher k value to achieve lift right? So the shocks should have the same bottom out point as stock, meaning the bumpstop should already be enough to prevent putting curb weight on a shock. Unless they shim the shock to get the extra length and reuse the design.

Or I'm way off! I'm not doubting you by any means, just showing my reasoning. Could you explain a little more?
 

tommudd

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Thanks for setting that straight, I'll get some in there. I guess I'm still not sure why they're needed? The rear springs aren't physically longer, but have a higher k value to achieve lift right? So the shocks should have the same bottom out point as stock, meaning the bumpstop should already be enough to prevent putting curb weight on a shock. Unless they shim the shock to get the extra length and reuse the design.

Or I'm way off! I'm not doubting you by any means, just showing my reasoning. Could you explain a little more?
You are sort of right, but also wrong
IF you installed longer shocks they may NOT and probably do not have the same range of motion as stock
I have seen plenty of blown shocks over the years when folks did not install any extra bumpstops
So if you got 2.5 inches of lift then you need an extra 2 inches of bumpstop at least
Hockey pucks work great when bolted down to the lower spring perch, they are one inch thick each and work great
You may also need extra bumpstops depending on tire size and wheel width/ backspacing
 

Bigfootyetti

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You are sort of right, but also wrong
IF you installed longer shocks they may NOT and probably do not have the same range of motion as stock
I have seen plenty of blown shocks over the years when folks did not install any extra bumpstops
So if you got 2.5 inches of lift then you need an extra 2 inches of bumpstop at least
Hockey pucks work great when bolted down to the lower spring perch, they are one inch thick each and work great
You may also need extra bumpstops depending on tire size and wheel width/ backspacing
So would I need longer bumpstops in the front also? I'm running 245/75r16 on stock rims, would I need more than 2 pucks per side?
 

lfhoward

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In the front you can’t run hockey pucks. But Teraflex extended bump stops are the go-to front bump stops for lifted Liberties.
 

vortibear

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Hmm, according to this KYB shock's specs, the KJ's stock ****** length is 7.88". While I can't find the exact ****** length for the Ironman 12712GR, I assume it's probably similar. Ironman's documentation states "bump stops must intervene by at least half their thickness before the shock absorber reaches a fully compressed state." As you can see in the following picture, the distance from the rear axle plate to the middle of the bump stop is 5". Thus, I don't think hockey pucks are required.

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tommudd

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No they are
But like I stated before if you do not mind replacing shocks , go ahead and run without them or not do much flexing
I too have ran and installed Ironman lifts, actually first set to arrive on the shores of the USA for a Liberty
Tested them out for JeepinByAl and they were required as far as I am concerned
Of course I only have about 40 years of lifting 4X4 experience
 

vortibear

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No they are
But like I stated before if you do not mind replacing shocks , go ahead and run without them or not do much flexing
I too have ran and installed Ironman lifts, actually first set to arrive on the shores of the USA for a Liberty
Tested them out for JeepinByAl and they were required as far as I am concerned
Of course I only have about 40 years of lifting 4X4 experience
So you disagree with my reasoning? How much space do you have between your plate/bump stop?
 

tommudd

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So you disagree with my reasoning? How much space do you have between your plate/bump stop?
On which KJ ? I have 3 , if you read at the bottom of my posts, one at 4.5 inches, one at 2.5 and one at 1.5
NOW it also depends on what width and what backspacing your wheels are and tire size.
If you are running a wheel say 8 inch wide, 4 inches of backspacing then you would need to run more backspacing than you would with 8 inch wide wheel with 5 inches of backspacing
Plus at 24 degrees right now I am not going out to measure any of them
I have lifted over 60 KJs , most all we installed 2 hockey pucks per side , some needed 3 per side though
NOW another way to check is to remove one rear shock,plus spring, measure what the measurement is from where top shock bolt would be and the lower, then compress the shock and measure
IF it measures say 6 inches ( just to post some measurements for example ) , and your shock compresses 5 inches you can get by possibly, but then of course you are compressing the shock completely down and will pop the seals like I mentioned, have seen it done before when they did a lift and never used bumpstops
But the shocks we normally use measure a bit more
 
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vortibear

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I assume you‘re mentioning backspacing/offset due to the potential for tire stuffing, but that shouldn’t be an issue since I run the stock aluminum wheels with 235/70 tires. Do you think upgrading to 245/70 would change the calculus here?

Of the jeeps you own, I’m most interested in your spacing for the ‘05.

When you install 2 hockey pucks on your lifts, what springs/shocks are being installed (generally)?
 

tommudd

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I assume you‘re mentioning backspacing/offset due to the potential for tire stuffing, but that shouldn’t be an issue since I run the stock aluminum wheels with 235/70 tires. Do you think upgrading to 245/70 would change the calculus here?

Of the jeeps you own, I’m most interested in your spacing for the ‘05.

When you install 2 hockey pucks on your lifts, what springs/shocks are being installed (generally)?
Rear Springs
the 05 has OME 947s
The 04 has JeepinByAl ( JBA ) 4 inch
The 03 has JBA 2.5 inch
Yes on backspacing/width
I run 8 inch wide Moabs with 5 inch backspacing on the 03 and 04
265-75-16s on the 04 and 265-70-16s on the 03 and can stuff them up into the wheelwells
Some folks want to run say an 8 inch wide wheel with 3 - 4 inches of backspacing thinking it looks cool or something then complain when it rips the flares off , you know common sense type things
With stock width/backspacing and those tires no need of course
 

Bigfootyetti

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Reviving this thread after a couple month break.

I've added hockey pucks and extended bumpstops after doing some measurements and quick math.

And more importantly, I've noticed play in the driver's side hub area while cornering or going over bumps. After reading up on it, I believe it's the new CV's I installed being too short. Jokes on me for thinking companies can make parts to spec. But anyway, I'll be ordering NAPA remanufactured CV's soon here and just wanted to make sure part numbers are kosher:

Part #: NCV 958355
Part #: NCV 958354
Does anyone know the part number for the c-clips? I can't seem to find them on NAPA.
I'll be reusing the intermediate shaft, as that was replaced with the other CV's less than 200 miles ago.

Both left and right CV's. Do I need to buy another passenger CV, I thought I read somewhere they're the same size?

Also, is there an easy way of getting the CV's out or do I need to drop the LCA again and get it aligned?

Thanks guys!
 

tommudd

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Reviving this thread after a couple month break.

I've added hockey pucks and extended bumpstops after doing some measurements and quick math.

And more importantly, I've noticed play in the driver's side hub area while cornering or going over bumps. After reading up on it, I believe it's the new CV's I installed being too short. Jokes on me for thinking companies can make parts to spec. But anyway, I'll be ordering NAPA remanufactured CV's soon here and just wanted to make sure part numbers are kosher:

Part #: NCV 958355
Part #: NCV 958354
Does anyone know the part number for the c-clips? I can't seem to find them on NAPA.
I'll be reusing the intermediate shaft, as that was replaced with the other CV's less than 200 miles ago.

Both left and right CV's. Do I need to buy another passenger CV, I thought I read somewhere they're the same size?

Also, is there an easy way of getting the CV's out or do I need to drop the LCA again and get it aligned?

Thanks guys!
C clips come with remanned NAPA
You never have to drop the LCA even putting on a lift
 

Bigfootyetti

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C clips come with remanned NAPA
You never have to drop the LCA even putting on a lift
Great, I replaced the LCA when I did the lift so I just associated the two. So I should not need to get it aligned then right?
 

tommudd

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Great, I replaced the LCA when I did the lift so I just associated the two. So I should not need to get it aligned then right?
" MOST " anytime I do anything to the front suspension I take them in just to make sure they are still in alignment
But on ones replacing wheel bearings say , I don't
 

Bigfootyetti

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" MOST " anytime I do anything to the front suspension I take them in just to make sure they are still in alignment
But on ones replacing wheel bearings say , I don't
Sounds good, I'll probably take it it just to be safe. Could you confirm that I DO need to buy left and right remaned CV's, or is it only the driver's side that is typically short?
I appreciate all your help Tom!
 

tommudd

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Sounds good, I'll probably take it it just to be safe. Could you confirm that I DO need to buy left and right remaned CV's, or is it only the driver's side that is typically short?
I appreciate all your help Tom!
Both sides have been found to be short on some, but mainly it seems to be the right side , of course more right sides have been replaced
 

Bigfootyetti

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Got my remanned CV's and comparing the three that I now have, all LEFT CV's are (damn near) the same length, just shy of 23" compressed. I'll probably return the NAPA reman and leave the 1AAuto one in, only because it doesn't want to come out :rolleyes:

The reason I'm doing the CV's again is because occasionally I can feel some play near the driver's side. I thought it was the left cv sliding in and out of the diff, but it makes sense to be the right CV with the diff on the left side. I also found the UCA mounting bolt VERY loose, which could have added some play.

Thoughts Tom?

Onto the right side!
 

Bigfootyetti

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With the right side apart and CV out it seems that's the 1AAuto CV is maybe 0.5" Shorter than stock/reman. PLUS the lock ring was not installed on the OUTER intermediate shaft.

Could this be the source of my noise?
 

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