LTT True Cold Air Intake for KJ's

[long_tall_texan]

I posted this over on LOST a while back, but I've realized some of the people over here don' frequent that site. So I figured I would share it here too.

Let me know if you have any questions!

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I have the first couple of the intake scoops and airbox adapters ready to ship out. I know these work on 05-07 models. Jeepjeepster is checking fitment on the 02-04 models now. If this version doesn't fit the 02-04, I will make another version for them as well. I will posts updates here as they come. I do not know if these will fit the KK, but if someone wants to try, or give me the info needed to make a KK version, I will be happy to make one for them too. The cost is a tad higher than I initially had quoted. The reason being, I forgot to include the cost of the support material for the 3D printer that I had to buy too. Remember, I am not making money on these. I am just sharing my design with all of you that had an interest. These are built on a 3D printer (rapid prototyping machine). The material is ABS plastic.

Grill intake scoop: $45
Airbox adapter for 3" hose/tubing: $50
Shipping one or both of the pieces listed above to anywhere in the continental US via USPS 3 Day Priority Mail: $10
. I checked shipping prices other than that,
. and shipping parcel post post required me
. to buy my own boxes. Added all up, it was
. only a couple dollars less, and I figure
. most would rather have the faster shipping.
If you want me to ship outside of US, I can quote that to you individually.

If you want one of these, just PM me. I will take payments via Paypal. I have 2 of the scoops and 2 of the airbox adapters ready now. I can only use the machine after hours and on weekends, so I will be taking orders on a first come, first serve basis. Please be patient on these initial orders, since it seems that a lot of you are interested. I'll create a running/waiting list for the initial orders and fill them ASAP. You won't need to pay until I have yours built and ready to ship. Then once I have yours built, you pay, and then I'll ship to you.

The hose to run between the scoop and the airbox is just 3" aluminum dryer vent hose that you can pick up at any Lowe's or Home Depot. You can use hose clamps if you want, but they really aren't needed. It fits pretty snug without them. You can also pick up a couple of plastic push-in rivets at the hardware store too for mounting.

I used both pieces on mine. However, dieselenthusiast is going to just use the intake scoop and then cut a 3" hole in the bottom/side of the airbox with a hole saw to feed his airbox. He has promised pics of that setup once he has it done.

If you have any questions about these, feel free to ask.

Here are some pictures

Grill Intake Scoop

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Airbox adapter for 3" hose/tubing

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Airbox Adapter installed

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Scoop Installed

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Scoop Installed behind grill

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05-07 Grill without scoop

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I just cut the rubber barrier piece horizontally just above the second hole. Then I folded it back behind in case I ever need to go back stock.
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For those of you that are wondering how they are made...

Just wanted to post a little info about the machine that I use to make these. Several people have asked about it. So if you are interested here's the scoop.

The printer I am using is a Dimension SST 768 printer. The simplest description of it is that it is a CNC glue gun. It lays down a .010" diameter bead of ABS plastic or soluble support material 1 layer at a time. It draws out the layer at z=0.000 then moves to z=0.010 and draws another layer. After the model is completed printing, I break off as much of the soluble support solution as possible. Then whatever is not broken off dissolves in a soapy water bath at 70 degrees Celsius. Takes an hour or two to dissolve it, depending on how much support is on the part.

There is a good youtube video of the process at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pPvAjwq6qM

Here is the home page of the company that makes the printers:
http://www.dimensionprinting.com/

The machine, water bath to dissolve the support, tax delivery, material, etc that we have cost around $30k a few years ago.

Here is a pic of the two pieces just after the build in the machine. The brown stuff is the support material that dissolves in hot water.

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And another view

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[Bashgod]

looks good. im very tempted...

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Didn't someone here on the board "prove" that "RamAir" doesn't work?

 

[kj924]

That's a lot of bends in the piping before it gets to where it needs to go.

 

[Bashgod]

the big draw for me is that you know the air is cooler than whats in the engine compartment. if the ram air works then thats even better. mine is just a K&n cone currently. but i have my air compressor and tank where my air box was so ther isnt enough room for this.

 

[long_tall_texan]

Didn't someone here on the board "prove" that "RamAir" doesn't work?

I guess it is not as much of a direct ram-air as much as it is a CAI. However, with the grill scoop placed and the 3" tube directly to the airbox (even though there are a few bends) it does create a positive pressure in the airbox. Rather than a vacuum of the stock setup.

Not trying to debate if the stock box is capable of supplying enough air to the engine. That has been hashed and re-hashed too many times. This just ensures air from outside the engine compartment get into the airbox.

 

[jnaut]

Didn't someone here on the board "prove" that "RamAir" doesn't work?

No. Science has proved it, though. kj924 is on to the major problem of ram air by pointing out the bends in the pipe. See 'air box resonance'.

While it's appealing to imagine the forward velocity of a car being converted into free supercharge, the actual air pressure gain is extremely small at normal speeds. For example, at 150 mph, the pressure gain when air is efficiently brought to rest is 2.75 percent. Because this is a dynamic effect, it is proportional to the square of the air velocity. At a more realizable automobile speed of 75 mph, the effect (again with 100 percent efficient conversion of velocity into pressure) will be only one-quarter as great — that is, just under seven-tenths of one percent.

In fact, velocity energy is not converted into pressure at 100 percent efficiency. A figure of 75 percent efficiency is usual, which reduces our notional ram-air gain at 75 mph to one-half of one percent.

Therefore, at normal speeds, ram air is a myth. However, something much more interesting lies behind it, ignored by the advertiser's busy pen. That something is airbox resonance.

Whole article here.

 

[jnaut]

the big draw for me is that you know the air is cooler than whats in the engine compartment. if the ram air works then thats even better. mine is just a K&n cone currently. but i have my air compressor and tank where my air box was so ther isnt enough room for this.

Most people who "see" an increase in performace are gaining by cooler air being taken into the engine, not by a "RAM AIR" effect. So you're spot on with this.

 

[long_tall_texan]

Again, As I stated in the above post:

I guess it is not as much of a direct ram-air as much as it is a CAI. QUOTE]

The fact of the matter is that you will get a much larger supply of "cool" (defined as fresh air outside of the engine compartment) than the stock setup allows for. If you are happy with supplying air to your airbox thru a 3/8" gap between the grill and the hood, then stick with the stock setup. If you want something different - I am not claiming better, so lets not debate it - I offer this.

The only reason I am offering these is because I made one for myself just for the heck of it. Several people that saw pics of it wanted one for themselves. So I am just offering it to anyone that may also want one. Not trying to make money one them. Not marketing them as better, or HP gain. If you would like one, great. If you don't, it won't bother me either...

Oh, and I changed the thread title to avoid any more banter about "Ram-Air"

 

[long_tall_texan]

the big draw for me is that you know the air is cooler than whats in the engine compartment. if the ram air works then thats even better. mine is just a K&n cone currently. but i have my air compressor and tank where my air box was so ther isnt enough room for this.

But you could use the grill scoop and the 3" hose to supply coold air to the cone filter. I have done a similar setup to that with my wife's suburban with a K&N Cone filter.

 

[jnaut]

Again, As I stated in the above post:

I guess it is not as much of a direct ram-air as much as it is a CAI. QUOTE]

I got that, texan. And it was appreciated. I was responding to Socks, not to you.

cold air intake is perfectly legitimate.

What's the adage? Cold air for power, warm air for fuel economy?

The fact of the matter is that you will get a much larger supply of "cool" (defined as fresh air outside of the engine compartment) than the stock setup allows for. If you are happy with supplying air to your airbox thru a 3/8" gap between the grill and the hood, then stick with the stock setup. If you want something different - I am not claiming better, so lets not debate it - I offer this.

I actually like your setup, except for one minor thing. It lowers the position of the intake which might cause problems for our local water-forders.

 

[long_tall_texan]

I actually like your setup, except for one minor thing. It lowers the position of the intake which might cause problems for our local water-forders.

This is true. 99% of the time people are not going to be going thru high water. But. I know there are several of you that ford water on a regular basis when wheeling. I assume most know that they are going to encounter water before heading out for the day. If you were to use my airbox adapter, it is a 2 minute fix. Just slide out the adapter I designed and slide your stock scoop back in. You can leave the grill scoop in place along with the 3" hose.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Didn't someone here on the board "prove" that "RamAir" doesn't work?

I was just being a smart ass... But, read what I said! "Didn't someone here on the board "prove" that "RamAir" doesn't work?"
I said nothing else. In fact, I do think "Ram air" works, and could care less what others say!
Not only that but I've played different length intake plumbing with pretty good results. (Based on an after market CAI system available in the late '60's early '70's for my hobby car! Which incidentally was an off the shelf accessory from the dealer.)
However, looking at the beautifully made set up that you have pictured (Makes me want to drop $15K on one of those 3D printers.) are the bends and the turbulence caused by them. The straighter the air flow the more air.The colder the charge the denser the air, etc.,etc.,etc.

 

[flair1111]

But you could use the grill scoop and the 3" hose to supply coold air to the cone filter. I have done a similar setup to that with my wife's suburban with a K&N Cone filter.

i was looking at my 06 this weekend with the grill off trying to pick out a sopt to put in one of my own CAIs. did you happen to see what could have been a perfect stock (almost) place to use that was already there? right behind the headlight there is a squarish hollow molded piece of plastic that points straight to the air box. if either the head light wasnt there or this piece was moved inward a few inches, this could have been used after a little working with. i was like, "crap!".

 

[flair1111]

hey long tall texan, i just sent you a PM. i want both pieces.

 

[Luke]

Hey Flair .... Did you ever find out what that "squarish hollow molded piece of plastic that points straight to the air box" is there for? I haven't had a chance to look at it but I know exactly what you are talking about.

Cheers,

 

[Powerslave]

Ram Air uses the dynamic air pressure created by vehicle motion to increase the static air pressure inside of the intake manifold on an engine, thus allowing a greater massflow through the engine and hence increasing engine power.

The ram air intake works by reducing the intake air velocity by increasing the cross sectional area of the intake ducting. When gas velocity goes down the dynamic pressure is reduced while the static pressure is increased. The increased static pressure in the plenum chamber has a positive effect on engine power, both because of the pressure itself and the increased air density this higher pressure gives.

So, how are you RAMMING air from 0-60? You're not... They don't work for this application. Just use a CAI or other nice cone intake system for better results. Stock Air Boxes are restricted, one reason is due to noise reduction...

If you want power, you need a Super, or Turbo charger. With the ones they make today that mount under the chassis, they are easier to install...

 

[flair1111]

Ram Air uses the dynamic air pressure created by vehicle motion to increase the static air pressure inside of the intake manifold on an engine, thus allowing a greater massflow through the engine and hence increasing engine power.

The ram air intake works by reducing the intake air velocity by increasing the cross sectional area of the intake ducting. When gas velocity goes down the dynamic pressure is reduced while the static pressure is increased. The increased static pressure in the plenum chamber has a positive effect on engine power, both because of the pressure itself and the increased air density this higher pressure gives.

So, how are you RAMMING air from 0-60? You're not... They don't work for this application. Just use a CAI or other nice cone intake system for better results. Stock Air Boxes are restricted, one reason is due to noise reduction...

If you want power, you need a Super, or Turbo charger. With the ones they make today that mount under the chassis, they are easier to install...

im just using it for the colder air.

 

[flair1111]

Hey Flair .... Did you ever find out what that "squarish hollow molded piece of plastic that points straight to the air box" is there for? I haven't had a chance to look at it but I know exactly what you are talking about.

Cheers,

dont know what its for or was meant to be really. looks sturdy though. maybe its another way to mount or hold lines of some type that my model doesnt have. either way, if you could seal the squarish tube up where its open one could mount some type of intake snorkel (like the one llt is selling) on the outside and just extend the inside to the box. LLTs is much simpler though.

if it wasnt meant to run lines of some kind through, i wonder if a CAI was considered here, but scrapped? who knows??

 

[Powerslave]

I plan on getting one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep...fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ebayphotohosting

I can work with that...