Lockers or not

[Jack Bryant]

Its me again brothers. I have been watching videos of kj's in mud and rocks. Some of the situations I will never be in,but I want to be prepared for the situations I will be in. Where do I need to start with getting positive traction in the rear or locking the front in, and which one do I need to start with? Seems to me with one or both locked in you are taking a lot of stress of of engine and running gear.

 

[Big Al]

You may already have trac loc from the factory in the rear end. Check your VIN on one of those sites that tell you your factory package when it was built. Mine has a Trac loc. Not the best, but it's a start.

 

[Jack Bryant]

Its 2002

You may already have trac loc from the factory in the rear end. Check your VIN on one of those sites that tell you your factory package when it was built. Mine has a Trac loc. Not the best, but it's a start.

What site do I need

 

[Big Al]

One of those vin check sites.
Forget which one I used. Google it, wish I save the site for you.

 

[Jack Bryant]

One of those vin check sites.
Forget which one I used. Google it, wish I save the site for you.

Thanks brother I have vin here with me

 

[Big Al]

Right on, I'm happy just with the trac loc. I guess a better way to look at it, it's better than not having one.
It's posi traction as Chevy used to call it.

 

[Jack Bryant]

Right on, I'm happy just with the trac loc. I guess a better way to look at it, it's better than not having one.
It's posi traction as Chevy used to call it.

Yeah I'm old fart it's still positive traction from my draggin days 69 chevelle 396 factory 4 speed red black vinyl top with side pipes

 

[Jack Bryant]

The vin says I javelin command track. 4wdsystem djj

 

[LibertyTC]

Build sheet here: https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing
Under axle /differential, it will be mentioned as Trac- Lok if yours has one.
On way also to test is: On hoist, wheels off the ground, an open diff, when you turn forward on the rear tire, will have the other tire spin in the opposite direction.
Trac- Lok both tires spin in same direction.

Trac Lok rear diffs- absolutely requires a 4 oz Bottle of Mopar limited slip additive to the gear lube. See Owners manual also for fluid & specifications/Towing etc.
Trac-lok limited slip diffs should be serviced every 35K miles & with the Mopar Limited slip Additive.
I use Lucas dino gear lube. Don't use synthetics.
Dino provides way better gear protection by far.

No Trac-Lok ? Next would be to consider a Detroit True Trac or Arb Air air locker, for the 8.25 rear axle.

 

[Jack Bryant]

Thanks brother I will check that out today after work

 

[mercdudecbr600]

You can also look at the axle tube near the shock mount and there should be a tag that says “trac-lok”. Mine came with one and it’s decent for street use. Can get scary in snow/ice like any lsd.
I had my tracolok carrier rebuilt and it’s sitting in my garage, let me know if you want it.

That said I have 2 recommendations: for a cheap upgrade I would recommend the Detroit truetrac - a gear driven lsd that has a high bias and works almost as good as a locker off road. The second is the ox locker for the rear which is operated by a cable, not air lines like arb lockers.

There’s not really a locker available for the front d30a, but you can get a truetrac in the front and it works great. And FYI I run synthetic oil in the diffs.

 

[Ronald]

Its me again brothers. I have been watching videos of kj's in mud and rocks. Some of the situations I will never be in,but I want to be prepared for the situations I will be in. Where do I need to start with getting positive traction in the rear or locking the front in, and which one do I need to start with? Seems to me with one or both locked in you are taking a lot of stress of of engine and running gear.

you [[[ just may have the lock like the other guy said check your vin number]]]

 

[ridenby]

If it is open put a lunchbox locker in it. I used an Aussie Locker.

 

[Jack Bryant]

you [[[ just may have the lock like the other guy said check your vin number]]]

I have been working around the clock , I deliver oxygen and medical supplies to Dr. Hospitals nursing homes and home care businesses. I will check the direction when I spin my tires tomorrow I hope. I'm really lucky to get feed back on different kinds of lockers. Thanks

 

[Jack Bryant]

Build sheet here: https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing
Under axle /differential, it will be mentioned as Trac- Lok if yours has one.
On way also to test is: On hoist, wheels off the ground, an open diff, when you turn forward on the rear tire, will have the other tire spin in the opposite direction.
Trac- Lok both tires spin in same direction.

Trac Lok rear diffs- absolutely requires a 4 oz Bottle of Mopar limited slip additive to the gear lube. See Owners manual also for fluid & specifications/Towing etc.
Trac-lok limited slip diffs should be serviced every 35K miles & with the Mopar Limited slip Additive.
I use Lucas dino gear lube. Don't use synthetics.
Dino provides way better gear protection by far.

No Trac-Lok ? Next would be to consider a Detroit True Trac or Arb Air air locker, for the 8.25 rear axle.

I like the Air locker is there pros and cons on which type to get

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Arb requires a compressor and air lines, which means extra money and can be damaged or leak.

Ox locker uses a heavy cable that can be actuated by electric shifter.

 

[farmboy530]

Its me again brothers. I have been watching videos of kj's in mud and rocks. Some of the situations I will never be in,but I want to be prepared for the situations I will be in. Where do I need to start with getting positive traction in the rear or locking the front in, and which one do I need to start with? Seems to me with one or both locked in you are taking a lot of stress of of engine and running gear.

I've been reading through and haven't seen anyone mention lockright (maybe I missed it). I'm running the lockright no slit on the 8.25 rear and absolutely love it. I live in the foothills and work in the low mountains. Maybe an inch or 2 of snow on the roads at my house, 3" or 5" on the road near work and up to 10"+ in my work yard unplowed. I love the way it reacts in the snow (in 4wd) on and off road. A little pop every now and then and I can lock it up if I gas it around a turn. This jeep goes anywhere! Install in a few hours if you can break your rear end down and maybe $400ish? You have to grind about 1/32 off the edge of a c clip to make it fit.

 

[3Dglasses]

Its me again brothers. I have been watching videos of kj's in mud and rocks. Some of the situations I will never be in,but I want to be prepared for the situations I will be in. Where do I need to start with getting positive traction in the rear or locking the front in, and which one do I need to start with? Seems to me with one or both locked in you are taking a lot of stress of of engine and running gear.

I installed an Aussie Locker in rear many years ago in my 2006 CRD. Inexpensive, simple, DIY, no problems but a bit clunky sometimes. (Replaces the side and spider gears in an open differential, no ring/pinion setup needed). Huge increase in snow/off-road traction. My front open diff is still stock. For simple offroad and snow traction, I recommend: https://www.torqmasters.com/aussie_locker_xd_58229_chrysler_8_25_29_spline

 

[mercdudecbr600]

I put an early lunchbox locker in the late 90s on my old ford 60s muscle car and it grenaded (stopped working) after a few years of driving. I imagine things have improved since that time period but it put a bad taste in my mouth on lunchbox lockers. By comparison, LSD are much smoother and much more predictable.

 

[Madelaide]

I installed front and rear lunchbox lockers in my KJ, only used centre diff-lock mode off road on loose surfaces after that.

Never got stuck again, reliable, cheap option, only issue was lots of clicking when turning like I had bad CV joints.