Lift kit installing tomorrow.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

onesik86

New Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
Think I have everything lined up for the install tomorrow. One question though. On the hockey pucks for the rear what size and length of bolts did everyone use? Does anyone have pictures of what they look like installed? Just trying to get all my ducks in a row before starting. Thanks in advance.
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,642
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Drill a 3/8 inch hole in the middle of each puck, use a 2.25-2.5 inch 3/8 inch bolt, lock washer and nut ( install two hockey pucks per side for 2.5 inch lift if using correct backspaced wheels etc )
drill hole in the middle of the lower spring perch large enough for the bolt to pass through
install spring, then reach through and install the hockey pucks, tighten nut on bolt and done
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,642
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Exactly what I needed. Thank you to the both of you. Tommudd and LibertyTC.
Do not bolt them together like in the picture, bolt goes through lower spring perch, then lock washer and nut
also use a regular bolt and do not countersink in into the puck
 

first&lastKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Messages
1,214
Reaction score
127
Location
Indiana
Do not bolt them together like in the picture, bolt goes through lower spring perch, then lock washer and nut
also use a regular bolt and do not countersink in into the puck

Why not countersink?
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,642
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Why not countersink?
One idiot did that, as I was redoing his rear suspension ran into countersunk bolts, what an itch to try and cut to remove it, I finally cut the old springs into, removed the 2 halves then attacked the bumpstops with my metabo
Only took an extra 40-45 minutes messing around when should of been an easy 15 minute job replacing the springs and shocks

Plus there is no need at all to countersink them
 

first&lastKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Messages
1,214
Reaction score
127
Location
Indiana
One idiot did that, as I was redoing his rear suspension ran into countersunk bolts, what an itch to try and cut to remove it, I finally cut the old springs into, removed the 2 halves then attacked the bumpstops with my metabo
Only took an extra 40-45 minutes messing around when should of been an easy 15 minute job replacing the springs and shocks

Plus there is no need at all to countersink them


I countersunk mine for a cleaner look. I did mine so that I can still get a socket on the bolt from the top and end wrench on the bottom.
 
Last edited:

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,642
Location
Southeastern Ohio
I countersunk mine for a cleaner look. I did mine so that I can still get a socket on the bolt from the top and end wrench on the bottom.
That would help, but I find it an unnecessary step in the whole process, just my opinion .
His he had countersunk it and no way to get anything on it at all
was also one of those people who red loctited every nut and bolt in the whole suspension at one point, taking it all apart and using gallons of that stuff
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top