Lift goes on Saturday

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Cardhu

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Lift arrived. JBA 4.5, ome 927, 948 Bilsteins, 1/4" JBA plate, F/R bumpstops.

Though I'm short rear shocks (Bilstein A702) as the second UPS box got lost.
Questions

1. What size is the castle nut on JBA 4.5 Arms that attaches to the ball joint. Ran out of my socket as I don't have any that big and am running to store soon.
FOUND : 27 MM

1A. Do you recommend opening the pockets? Whats the purpose in opening the top one. Won't I be hitting the bump stop first?

http://jeepinbyal.com/A-arm_mounting_pockets.aspx

2. Rear shocks probably won't be here for a week or more and I'm really looking to move ahead with this tomorrow. With the provision that I will totally destroy the old ones do to being too short; Will this last about that period. No extra rear iso added right now.

3. Are the torque specs on the allj "new kid gets a lift" accurate.

http://www.boulderbars.com/images/k...FT_4Wheel_Drive_and_Sport_Utility_Article.pdf

I've read the other sheets

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49749&highlight=torque

And noted the wrong ones in the thread. Anything I'm missing?

4. Bought 4 inch bump stop rear

http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-Rear_Bump_Stop_4_-567.aspx
Will I need to cut the first crown off as they are taller then 2 hockey pucks? I might add 1 iso later so should i leave well enough alone.
 
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tommudd

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Lift arrived. JBA 4.5, ome 927, 948 Bilsteins, 1/4" JBA plate, F/R bumpstops.

Though I'm short rear shocks (Bilstein A702) as the second UPS box got lost.
Questions

1. What size is the castle nut on JBA 4.5 Arms that attaches to the ball joint. Ran out of my socket as I don't have any that big and am running to store soon.
FOUND : 27 MM

1A. Do you recommend opening the pockets? Whats the purpose in opening the top one. Won't I be hitting the bump stop first?

http://jeepinbyal.com/A-arm_mounting_pockets.aspx

2. Rear shocks probably won't be here for a week or more and I'm really looking to move ahead with this tomorrow. With the provision that I will totally destroy the old ones do to being too short; Will this last about that period. No extra rear iso added right now.

Depends on where you go even around town it may top out but only for a week just know you'll have some noise

3. Are the torque specs on the allj "new kid gets a lift" accurate.

http://www.boulderbars.com/images/k...FT_4Wheel_Drive_and_Sport_Utility_Article.pdf

pretty much

I've read the other sheets

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49749&highlight=torque

And noted the wrong ones in the thread. Anything I'm missing?

4. Bought 4 inch bump stop rear

http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-Rear_Bump_Stop_4_-567.aspx
Will I need to cut the first crown off as they are taller then 2 hockey pucks? I might add 1 iso later so should i leave well enough alone.

No way you'll need 4 inches could of saved money by using the hockey pucks but since you have them 2 inches for your lift is plenty

next question LOL You'll do fine
 

Cardhu

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Got all the under the hood guts out and on jack stands after I got home this evening from boozing.

Driverside rear UCA bolt is a pain in the ass to loosen. Perhaps I'm too far gone and missing something but Its really tucked up out of the way.

Also looked at pockets from the pic on JBA. Complete non issue on my 2007. Pockets are pretty much open and nowhere near touching stock UCA. Looks like nothing to clean out.

Once you've paid 200+ for shipping, 125 + for broakerage, duty and tax, 28 bucks for pretty red bump stops doesn't seem like a big waste. Even if I butcher them.

Front bumpstops in the the freezer, booze in the fridge, and time to hit it again tomorrow after i sober up. Made enough headway to feel good about finishing it tomorrow.
 

Ry' N Jen

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Never had any issues with the UCA nuts!
It took me all of 15 minutes max to install
each 4.5 UCA.
I found those to be rediculousLey easy to
Fit!
I did cut out the UCA "Pockets" on our Rig
so I could get as much available movement/
articulation as possible from my setup...
Was it necessary?
Some say no, some say yes!
 

Cardhu

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Done all the front today minus bumpstops. Atleast 2hours trying to get those in and failing.

Whats the secret. hot, cold, dishliquid, do you hook the inside first and try and get the 3 tabs on the front?


Problem with UCA was my not so obvious thinking of using every socket extentions I own to get at the driverside rear one. After that went fine. Did other side while i was waiting for rust paint on clevis fork to dry.

I never undid the sway bar to fit the shocks. Kind of muscled them in with the rachet strap. Is that going to give me issues?

Cut rear bump stops down to 2.25 inches on the chop saw. ready to go in first thing tomorrow morning.
 

DJSKJ

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Yeah, the driver side rear bolts for the UCA did present a little bit of a challenge. I think those took as long to get in and out as the entire project of installing the UCAs.

DJ
 

Cardhu

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Finished. Rides good, tracks bad.

I'm sitting high in front and need alignment bad. Tires are chirping.

~23 inches
alignment should drop it down some the way the tires are leaning. Post real numbers this week once i get an apointment.

NO ESP problems... yet. We'll see what happens at speed.
 

Cardhu

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Hit the dealer today for the alignment. Camber is off on right side, but they insisted on matching caster.

They put it reasonably in and are willing to take it back in again next wednesday after I've broken it in a little. Least the tires stoped squealing and tracks straight.

Droped from 23 to 22 wheel center to fender. CV's also stoped making noise thank god. Stance is also looking much better Front vs rear.

After talking with the alignment guy hes now agreed to do the suggested alignment and i'm no longer dealing only with the service manager whom didn't seem impressed with my I told you what to do when i droped it off expression. Least they care enough to try 3 times before giving up. I'm optomistic for next week.

Rides 10 X better then stock and perhaps even better once it aligns properly and loosens up.
 
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Cardhu

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Rear shocks arrived last week and went on last night. Its a lot more settled in the dappening. Felt like it was rocking back and forth with the stiff 948s and monroes. Way more solid now and a good choice.

the upper shock mount with the 702's added were kind of loose laterally along the bolt so I added a washer but was snug inside with the 15mm bolt. Should have added 2 each side but it doesn't rattle. 80 lbft seems like a lot on those bolts.

phase 1 is done and added to my photo album. Will update the rear pics soon.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/album.php?u=12625

Thanks to everybody that contributed to my questions in this process as most of them became obvious once I ripped everythign appart. Haven't touched anything like this before and was being cautious. Wasn't sure I did after first part was done but here it is.

Sitting near 22 all the way around. will roll in again after a week and update on the lift height thread as was measured after dropping the rear and putting back together without moving.

Took off the spare today too to get a look at the plates running across the studs for the mounting bracket. Was starting to bubble with rust and got some rust paint to get through the winter.

Compared the stock tires to the "new" unused spare. I need new rubber. Makes my worn tires look even more bald.

Also got a look at front end again. I'm rubbing on the sway bar up front with 235 65 17s with the 17x7.5 and questionable backspaced wheels. Anybody else see that typically? Light rub, likely from cutting the wheel to lock, slight scuff of paint. Bigger tires I'd assume it but stock.
 

rockymountain

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Did you get an alignment sheet? Rubbing the sway bar is normal. Mine never really rubbed noticeably until I went over 22" in front. They want the cross caster at 0 so it won't pull in one direction.

The castor won't be in spec but both sides should be the same. Camber and toe should be in spec though.
 

Cardhu

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Did you get an alignment sheet? Rubbing the sway bar is normal. Mine never really rubbed noticeably until I went over 22" in front. They want the cross caster at 0 so it won't pull in one direction.

The castor won't be in spec but both sides should be the same. Camber and toe should be in spec though.

Alignment is 0.1 degrees out of camber everything else in factory spec including caster. Cross caster is .1 which seems to be decent. Tracks straight. The rubbing on the sway seems typical its just the first time i've seen it. It just scuffed off the paint there and don't imagine moving to 245's will make it any better.

I assume spacers are what people use to get it off the sway bar but causes rubbing elsewhere on pinch and front of wheel well.

I guess i was just surprised that stock wheels were rubbing on sway after the lift and I shouldn't be.
 

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