Let's talk Polishes

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HoosierJeeper

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Since SCG doesn't make a polish...what is a good polish out there? I've used Meg's DC #2, but the polish is brown...and on a Khaki KJ, it's kinda hard to tell. :eek:

Any recommendations?
 

Boiler

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For my first time polishing anything ever, I did my mom's black CTS which was spiderwebbed pretty much 100%. I used Pinnacle's Advanced swirl remover, Pinnacles advanced finishing polish, my Flex and my Griot's 3" DA's. In as much time that I was willing to spend I removed at least 90% of it. You can still see some of the deeper ones if you really look but in general it looks great now and they are very happy. I used the same setup on my jeep, but metallic silver really doesn't care what you do it. It did invigorate the flake a bit, but thats about all you can tell.

I'll use it again though. I'll probably just do the advanced finishing polish ever year or two from now on.
 

HoosierJeeper

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I saw those on Autopia. I might give those a shot.

I hear ya on silver.
 

LibertyTC

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How come you need to talk polishes HJ?
Did you wear the paint off the kJ from all those coats of wax already? :D
I suppose it's the LR as it can show swirls in black.
I have to say the light Khacki is pretty forgiving even with a few scratches, you don't see them too easily:)
 

cplchris

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i picked up some quixx polish at pepboys...it was on clearance for 2.50. anyone ever use it before? i tried it on my tool box and it removed some swirls bit it also had color on the sponge after not much elbow grease...if any1 has input cool...if not ill try it sometime in the next couple of days and post a review
 

HoosierJeeper

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I'm thinking the reason it had color on it is because the tool box wasn't clear coated, so it rubbed the paint off.
 

cplchris

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I'm thinking the reason it had color on it is because the tool box wasn't clear coated, so it rubbed the paint off.

yea thats what i was figuring too but it didnt take me much effort to get a decent sized splotch of color on the sponge i just dont want to risk burning thru clearcoat but the previous owner must have tried using rubbing compound on a scratch because at the right angle i can see a small hazed patch surrounding a scratch so im thinking im gunna try the quixx on there to see how itll do. hopefully ill havetime today but right now i gotta get off my a$$ and get my tweeters in and fit my seat covers better
 

HoosierJeeper

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You'd have to use a polisher and be really strong to burn through the clear coat on the KJ.

Let us know how it works. What color is your KJ?
 

cplchris

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You'd have to use a polisher and be really strong to burn through the clear coat on the KJ.

Let us know how it works. What color is your KJ?

ill see about tryin it out tomorro and ill post pics of the hood as well.....as for the color....LKM FTMFW YEEHAW!!!
 

67Customs

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Well, technically DC #2 isn't a polish in true detailing terms. It is technically a glaze, which is meant to fill in light swirling and imperfections, not polish them out. It deepens the paint. Polishes contain abrasives that are meant to remove the clear around the scratch/swirl in order to level it out and "remove" them.

There are a lot of good glazes on the market.

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze (It is brown, though.)
Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #3 Pro Machine Glaze (Can be used by hand.)
Meguiar's Mirror glaze #5 New Car Glaze
Danase Wet Glaze (Best one IMO.)
Poorboy's Black Hole Show Glaze (Dark Vehicles)
Poorboy's Diamond Show Glaze (Light Vehicles)
3M Imperial Hand Glaze (Probably does the most filling.)
Wolfgang Finishing Glaze
Mother's Professional Hand Glaze
Griot's Paint Glaze
Menzerna Finishing Glaze
Pinnacle XMT Machine Glaze (Can be used by hand.)

Just to name a few...

Pick any of the above. They all do about the same thing. Some apply easier and remove easier, but they all achieve about the same job. Save for Danase. Definitely a deeper shine and easy to use. And again, 3m probably has the most fillers. #7 is a great choice, but it is similar to DC #2 (speculation that it is the same product.)

Hope that helps.:cool:
 

cplchris

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hey 67customs what would you reccomend for removing a hazed spot where rubbing compound has been used? i only have a POS random orbit "polisher" i got for 10 bucks and it tops out at 3500rpm and i can only use bonnet covers with it (no foam pads) so any input you would have would be greatly appreciated.
 

67Customs

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Very helpful...thanks. Is the Danase good to use by hand?
Yes, it is.

hey 67customs what would you reccomend for removing a hazed spot where rubbing compound has been used? i only have a POS random orbit "polisher" i got for 10 bucks and it tops out at 3500rpm and i can only use bonnet covers with it (no foam pads) so any input you would have would be greatly appreciated.

What kind of rubbing compound was it?

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is great. It isn't the typical rubbing compound. Much more finish friendly. It would be the best option for use by hand. Otherwise, you are going to have to step up to a decent machine polisher.
 

67Customs

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thanks 67 i do plan on it...ive manned up and will be buying a polisher i found on amazon its the 7424xp with a shitload of xmt products and pads for about 250....heres the link: http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0M6234645F48GZGBJT4S .... u guys think its a good deal for the price?

I honestly think you will be better off buying this kit...

Perfect Starter Kit Porter Cable 7424XP

And then purchasing the polishes separate from the same site. I would grab Optimum Compound II, Optimum Polish II and Optimum Poli-Seal in this pack...

Optimum Polymer Technologies - Car Care 3 Pack

That will bring you to around the same price as the kit you listed, but you will get a lot more useful stuff and much better polish.

For one thing, the smaller orange pads that come with the Autogeek kit will help cut the surface better when doing the heavier polishing. The smaller the pad, the quicker it can rotate, the more heat it builds, the quicker the polish breaks down, the more work you can do. You get a broader selection of pads as well.

Use the black pad to apply Optimum Poli-Seal. They will work well together.

You are most likely going to use Optimum Compound II with the orange pads, then move down to Optimum Polish II with the white pad and them move down to Poi-Seal with the black pad.

Remember though, always try the least agressive method first. Start with the white pad and polish first. If that doesn't work, move up to the orange pad and polish. If that isn't cutting it, move up to the orange pad and compound. This is how a propert detail should start. Remove the least amount of clear possible while obtaining the desired results.

In all reality though, you are going to have to start with the orange pad and compound. The clear on the KJ is pretty tough. Which is another reason why the kit you linked most likely isn't going to be good enough. XMT is nice, but it isn't as strong as Optimum.

Also, if you haven't done so already, check out the Porter Cable videos on Autogeek here. They explain how to use the machine pretty well. You can also check out these two links...
Tips on Using a Dual Action Polisher
Dual Action Polishing Guide

If you have an more questions, just let me know.:)
 

cplchris

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thanks again 67 and yea that looks like a pretty good deal as well prolly go that direction whenever i get more money but thanks for the input....do u know of any stores that sell optimum polishing products?
 

HoosierJeeper

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AFAIK, they are order online from a variety of places. Have yet to see them in person.
 

67Customs

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thanks again 67 and yea that looks like a pretty good deal as well prolly go that direction whenever i get more money but thanks for the input....do u know of any stores that sell optimum polishing products?
I am pretty sure that they are mostly only sold online. I think they have a couple of select places you can find it in a store, but nothing that would likely be around.
 

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