Install AC Compressor Clutch?

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604KJ

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HI all,

hoping someone might be able to help me out here. My AC Clutch had the bearings come out and grinded up so I took it out and bought a new one. Taking off, no problem. If you look at the picture below it will help explain where I'm stuck.

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#9 is my first problem, I cannot get the damn snap ring back onto the shaft, picture below(from internet, this guy makes it look easy)shows what I mean in more detail

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The snap ring pliers I bought just twist the ring and i cant get it onto the shaft, which is about 2" in diameter.

It seems to me my pliers are the problem, so Im looking at getting a better set but a good one is going to cost me another $70-$140 !, Do i really need to do this or am i doing something wrong, has anyone done this before and if so, let me know what to do.

I went to the dealership, several auto shops and everyone told me you cannot replace the clutch and you have to replace the whole compressor system, then i found the Sanden service manual which explains how you actually can, except it doesn't tell you how to get the snap rings back on!
http://www.sanden.com/productlibrary/manuals/SD_Service_Guide_Rev_2.pdf

#8 is my next issue, the pulley/clutch assembly doesn't seem to fit over the field coil, but i do believe this needs to be delicately pressed onto it...i will get to that part eventually i hope..
 

95whtzr2

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I had the exact same issue with getting the snap ring back on, I eventually got it with a lot of cussing and crying and a third hand. It got real tight trying to squeeze another hand in there but that's how I got it with my cheap pliers.

Essentially I focused on stretching the snapring out enough and my dad focused on getting the ring where it needed to go. It was a major PITA but I got it after close to 30 minutes of struggling.

As far as the clutch being tight on the coil, the instructions showed the gap range and mine was tighter than what the instructions said. But the instructions also said the tighter the gap the longer the life, so since mine wasn't dragging I ran with what I had. But I believe the instructions showed how to adjust the gap- I can't remember the specifics though unfortunately.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 

Leeann

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To Install:

Position the A/C clutch field coil onto the A/C compressor front housing.
Install the snap ring that secures the clutch field coil to the compressor front housing with snap ring pliers.
NOTE: Be careful not to pinch the wire harness with the retaining clip when you tighten the retaining screw.

Install the screw that secures the clutch coil wire harness retainer clip to the compressor front housing then tighten the screw securely.
Line up the pulley and bearing assembly squarely onto the compressor front housing hub.
Install the pulley and bearing assembly onto the compressor front housing hub with installer (special tool #6871). Thread the installer onto the compressor shaft, and then turn the installer nut until the pulley and bearing assembly is properly seated against the compressor front housing.
CAUTION
If the snap ring is not completely seated in the groove it will vibrate out and cause a clutch failure and serious damage to the front housing of the compressor.

NOTE: Install the snap ring with the beveled side of the snap ring facing out.

Install the snap ring that secures the pulley and bearing assembly to the compressor. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove.
Verify that there is adequate clearance between the clutch field coil wire and the clutch pulley.
NOTE: When installing a clutch assembly, first try the original shims. When installing a clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 in (1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 ml) shims from the clutch hardware package provided with the new clutch.

Install the clutch shims onto the compressor shaft.
NOTE: If you hear a distinct sound change during the clutch plate tapping process, it indicates that the clutch plate has bottomed out against the compressor clutch shims.

Install the clutch plate using driver (special tool #6463 in kit #6460). Tap the clutch plate over the compressor shaft until it has bottomed against the clutch shims.
Install the clutch nut or bolt onto the compressor shaft. Tighten the nut to 155 in-lb (17.5 Nm).
NOTE: If the clutch air gap is not consistent around the circumference of the clutch, carefully pry up at the minimum variations and lightly tap down at the points of maximum variation.

Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gage. If the air gap does not meet the specification, add or subtract shims as needed.
Place the A/C compressor onto the mounting bracket.
On the 2.4L gasoline engine ONLY: Install and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 ft-lb (27 Nm).
On the 3.7L gasoline engine ONLY: Install all mounting bolts hand-tight, then tighten the mounting bolts in the following sequence:
Step 1: The rear bolt to 41 ft-lb (55 Nm).
Step 2: The front inboard bolt to 30 ft-lb (40 Nm).
Step 3: The front outboard bolt to 41 ft-lb (55 Nm).
Connect the wire harness to the compressor clutch field coil connector.
Install the accessory drive belt.
Connect the negative battery cable and properly break in the clutch.
 

dougmac

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Its a shame you aren't a bit closer. I have good snap-ring pliers. You are welcome to use them anytime!
 

604KJ

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Thanks Doug, I wish I were too lol!

95whtzr2 - Did you do this with the compressor still hooked up, and if so did you pull the electric fan in the front out before?
 

604KJ

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I ordered a new pair of pliers (see link below) & finally managed to get the snap ring on. Then I ran into my next hurdle, and I'm hoping someone can tell me what I need to do from here because I'm stumped...

Magic Tip Ring Pliers External 1.5-4" .090 - Wiha Tools Canada

Here are some pics...I tried to label the problem areas Lip 1 & Lip 2, but you can barley see it in the photo for some reason...

The diameter of the ring on the inside of the Pulley & bearing assembly is the same diameter as "Lip 2" on the shaft. It seems i need to remove these lips from the shaft, but I dont see a way to do so...
 

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604KJ

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I've discovered what the problem is!

By comparing the old pulley to the new one, I realized that the old bearing assembly in the centre of the pulley has been ground out by the ball bearings inside, and some of it seems to have fused itself onto the compressor shaft, creating those lips I was talking about. This means that does have to come off in order to get the new pulley and bearing assembly back on. Good News, making some progress icon996.gif

Old vs New Pulley and Bearing Assembly
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Old over the compressor shaft
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These are the ball bearings that came out and ground everything up:
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I tried to rotate the partially ground bearing assembly off the shaft with a pair of channel locks, but it didn't budge. I'm thinking either these things are really pressed onto the shaft good and the channel locks would never work anyway, or under the heat of the grinding the bearing assembly welded itself onto the compressor shaft.

Before I give up on this and have to buy a whole new compressor....any ideas?
 
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JasonJ

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So you just have part of the bearing race stuck on the shaft? if it needs to come off, use a rotary tool to cut a slot (carefully!) into the stuck bearing race and then split it apart and off of the compressor shaft.
 

604KJ

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I was thinking about that, I figured at this point if I ruin anything either way I will need a whole new unit. OK, I'm doing this tomorrow morning and will let you know how it goes. Thanks!
 

604KJ

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Well, I finally got this fixed. :)
I bought a Dremel, cut that piece off the shaft and from there it was simply putting the new stuff on. I don't know what caused my bearings to come out and grind everything up, but I've had the new one on for a week now and everything seems to be working normally.

I had to buy some special pliers for the snap ring ($65), a Dremel ($30), Sanden Clutch Kit ($135) from Omega Environmental - Total Cost = $230 CAD - Best part is everywhere I talked to first told me I would only be able to replace the entire compressor system, which would have easily cost me over $600. Hopefully this replacement doesn't break down the same way the old one did, then I will know this was definitely worth it. For now, I'm happy I was able to fix this for a lot less than I was made to think. Don't be fooled out there!
 

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