I broke my radiator - can it be fixed?

[604KJ]

I replaced my hoses and think I screwed the clamps down too much, because I broke the plastic coupler part the hose goes over. I noticed because after replacement, there's green fluid around the hose area.

Can this be fixed at all?

 

[tjkj2002]

Nope time for a new one.if it broke that easily the radiator was compromised to begin with and was going to fail in the near future anyways.

 

[604KJ]

I cant buy one right away so how long can I keep going like this, is it alright for a little while as long as I keep the coolant full?

When i do get the new one, should I be able to tighten down as much as possible without it breaking?

oh yeah, where did all the broken plastic bits go to, should I be worried?

 

[CzarKJ]

Plastic in your system if you didn't collect it all! Need a flush and a new radiator ASAP! Sorry to hear about the troubles.

 

[ltd02]

Agree with above, any plastic chunks in there would be a big issue. Next go around get the OEM spring clamps and you'll never have that happen. Those worm clamps are okay in an emergency but can't beat those originals. The worm clamps always loosen on me but guess I don't tighten them enough I guess. Back in the day we'd give a light coating of that Indian Head gasket shellac before attaching and tightening. Really shouldn't need it now but I think permatex still makes it.

 

[CactusJacked]

Coolant flow direction would have pushed the plastic chunks into the radiator. For now, looks like you have enough of a neck to catch if you move the clamp all the way against the radiator.

 

[LibertyTC]

Gosh That rad plastic intake is toast. You snapped it good (well bad).
I would not take the chance for too long that the rad hose could slide off and cause a bad mess or overheating day.
Get a New OEM rad, if you want it to last. Pay more now, and have it last without further headaches.

 

[profdlp]

I'm with TC. If I've learned anything here it's that overheating our 3.7 engine - even once - is the quickest way to kill it. A replacement radiator is cheap insurance against an engine rebuild.

 

[604KJ]

how do you know when its going to overheat, the gauge on the dash isn't accurate is it?

Ive been driving like this for 2 weeks now, will have to for at least another before I can get a radiator.

Since the bits of broken plastic would have gone into the radiator, will a flush be necessary? I want to replace the rad myself to save $$$ but don't know how to flush.

 

[CactusJacked]

how do you know when its going to overheat, the gauge on the dash isn't accurate is it?

Ive been driving like this for 2 weeks now, will have to for at least another before I can get a radiator.

Since the bits of broken plastic would have gone into the radiator, will a flush be necessary? I want to replace the rad myself to save $$$ but don't know how to flush.

The gauge is accurate enough to know when the engine is getting too hot. In the middle is "normal".
The broken chunks would be trapped down in the drivers side radiator tank, and are way too big to pass through to the passenger side and out into the engine.

 

[colorado76]

I agree, you should replace the radiator ASAP. I had to replace mine in the fall of 2011. Due to a small crack in the lower portion of the bottom of the radiator. I want to say that the cost was around $111.79 for the radiator plus tax. It was easy to due, and I posted some photos when my brother in law and I replaced it.:happy107:

 

[dude1116]

Go with an OEM radiator not an aftermarket.

Here's a few pics of mine going in:

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This is how it's supposed to go in...right?

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[604KJ]

This is awesome, thanks for the tips guys. Knowing the plastic didn't make it into the block is a relief, I think replacing this myself should be pretty straight forward.

I have been topping it up with Prestone 50/50, is it ok to fill up the whole system with this stuff one the rad has been replaced?

 

[tommudd]

This is awesome, thanks for the tips guys. Knowing the plastic didn't make it into the block is a relief, I think replacing this myself should be pretty straight forward.

I have been topping it up with Prestone 50/50, is it ok to fill up the whole system with this stuff one the rad has been replaced?

Now you will have to flush the whole thing. HOAT only antifreeze, Prestone is not , hopefully you'll get the radiator done and that crap out soon!

 

[LibertyTC]

^Yup the water pump/plastic impeller in the KJ wont like that Prestone crap at all.
And now since a flush is in order.. if you do this yourself with water....all that water stays in the block..so...only use full strength HOAT not 50-50 mix.
Dealer HOAT is full strength not premixed 50/50.
Does (Zerex G 05) come full strength or 50 50 premixed only , something to look out for.
Option 2 would be to have the dealer do the rad Hoat flush on their flush machine.
That would guarantee proper mixture and no regular water in system where distilled water should also be used.
Last time I had the dealer flush done it was $139 if I remember correctly. well worth it. I sit at -50 too, just in case I find myself in the Rockies/Alberta in winter.
New Hoat every 5 years or 100,000 miles is the recommended intervals for the HOAT Btw. I do mine every 4 years regardless of miles.
Jeep seems to be happy with with the proper/clean coolant!

 

[dude1116]

Get the Prestone out! That's how heater cores clog too

 

[604KJ]

OK, so let me ask you this;

Ive been topping up with that stuff for quite a while now, and recently my heater wont work when idling, just blows cold air. Sounds like all this is related now, so replace the radiator, get a flush & I should have my problems solved...?

what have I done :icon_cry:

 

[nullptr]

OK, so let me ask you this;

Ive been topping up with that stuff for quite a while now, and recently my heater wont work when idling, just blows cold air. Sounds like all this is related now, so replace the radiator, get a flush & I should have my problems solved...?

what have I done :icon_cry:

There's a good chance that replacing the radiator and doing a flush will indeed fix things. You may just have an air bubble forming in the heater core due to low coolant levels.

 

[dude1116]

OK, so let me ask you this;

Ive been topping up with that stuff for quite a while now, and recently my heater wont work when idling, just blows cold air. Sounds like all this is related now, so replace the radiator, get a flush & I should have my problems solved...?

what have I done :icon_cry:

It could and it could not. Depends if the prestone mixed with HOAT sludged up the heater core. But it's the best start. Make sure to bleed the system.

 

[sfiforlife]

This is awesome, thanks for the tips guys. Knowing the plastic didn't make it into the block is a relief, I think replacing this myself should be pretty straight forward.

I have been topping it up with Prestone 50/50, is it ok to fill up the whole system with this stuff one the rad has been replaced?

Preston ruined my cooling system for a good week. It causes all kinds of bubbly gunk to build up and I had to flush it 8 times with water and it took me half a day to get it completely out of my system.

Now since you only "Topped it off" I don't think you will have this issue. I filled it up completely with that garbage the first time.

Best option is to get the coolant from the dealer "Mopar HOAT 50/50" You will need 2 of those bad boys. If you need to know how to flush just youtube it. Some like to use the little plug at the bottom of the radiator, I personally prefer taking off the BIG HOSE at the bottom of the radiator (You can't miss it). Run water through the system until all color is gone. You can also take out the reservoir back hoses and flush the heating core while you are at it along with the thermostat for a COMPLETE flush (search youtube video). One single GOOD flush should take you about 15-30 min.