HOW TO: Install an aftermarket oil presure guage (electric sender)

[SDLiberty]

OK so after gathering info and how-to ideas from you. It's time i give back a little.
Please keep in mind that oil fittings could leak. Causing potential engine problems, Fires, Break downs, and One hell of a mess if not tightened, checked and re-checked. All fittings and sending units are under pressure while engine is operating. DO NOT loosen fittings while engine is running!!! Thank you!

Things you will need:
Gauge pod from Lotek
Preferred style/type oil pressure gauge to be used
18 gauge wire
1/8 x 1 1/2 nipple
1/8 T fitting
1/8 close nipple
1/8 npt x 1/4 compression elbow
1/8 npt x 1/4 compression fitting
1/4 copper tubing
1, 2-2.5 hose clamp
Use Thread sealant on all threads!!

Easiest time to do this is during an oil change. Oil filter must be removed to remove OEM sending unit. Sender is just above oil filter. Unplug sender and tuck out if the way. YOU NEED THIS! You will need a rather large deep socket to remove the sending unit from block. I didn't have one, so short vise grips did the trick. Not much room as you can tell. Use caution when removing not to break the plastic plug housing. Connect all fittings with sealant and tighten. You may have noticed the OEM sender pointed towards the front of the vehicle. Once your fittings are together, it will now face the driver side wheel well. As shown in pictures.

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Next you want to find a place for the aftermarket sending unit. (This is called a remote sending unit. Typically used on high vibration race motors, etc. ) I found a spot just under the battery box and fuse block. Next to the horn. Disconnect and remove the battery and battery tray. Position you sender and screw hose clamp to wheel well. This will hold sender in place.

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Run your piece 1/4 copper tubing from t block to sender. Don't cut to short. Give yourself enough room for a few slight bends. I will be changing mine from copper tubing to a 1/4 breaded line in the future. But really no need to. Copper tubing seems to be holding up rather well. Breaded line would be just for looks really.
Now that the plumbing is done. On to the cab. Pull down the compartment under the steering wheel. Remove kick plate by peddles. If you pull down the carpet on left side of peddles you should see a little dimple in fire wall to drill through. This is the thinnest point I can tell. (SORRY NO PICS) Will take some work to get a grommet on there but it's better to have one than not. Run your 18 gauge wire to your sender on the wheel well and connect. With this done, you can now re install Batt. tray and Battery. Don't forget to plug OEM sender back in. Install NEW oil filter and fill with oil. DOUBLE CHECK ALL FITTINGS. Start engine and check for leaks. At 75+ psi it won't take long to make a real mess. If no leaks.... On to your gauge pod and install of you new gauge. Follow install directions for your specific gauge. Failure to do so could result in and electrical fire.

I painted my pod duplicolor flat black and the passenger side to match. That color actually matches the dash really well

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Hope this covered all of it?? If there are question, I'll be happy to answer them

 

[kb0nly]

Ok, not to nitpick..

I would definitely get some braided line on there pronto. You have the sensor on the wheel well and the copper line runs to the engine, when the engine revs and moves the copper line is going to be flexing because the sensor is stationary, the engine is not totally stationary because of its mounts, its allowed to flex of course. Hence why we need flexible fuel lines, radiator hoses, you name it, so everything can flex.

Just an observation. I know a guy who used solid line to run a fuel line on a race car, well yeah, lets just say the line from the fuel pressure regulator to the carb's didn't last more than a half a race and a nice fire resulted. In your case it would be hot oil on everything and loss of your oil leaving you on the side of the road.

Your other option would be to change the sensors mounting location to somewhere on the engine so it moves with the engine.

Otherwise top notch job! I like the look of that gauge pod, but i also really like having the grab bar there. Does anyone make a gauge pod that would fit on the dash or something?

 

[kb0nly]

Looking at the pictures again... I take it there isn't enough room to put the new sending unit on the tee fitting because of the belt right?

How about using a male to female elbow instead of the pipe thread to compression elbow, then you could put the new sensor on the added elbow, looks like there would be enough room if you angled it upward slightly, or it might even be able to sit side-by-side with the stock sending unit, hard to tell from pictures but i bet it could be done without the added line.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

If you go with Teflon tubing/ Stainless Steel braided line, I found it less expensive to buy a ready made oil pressure line from a speed shop, compared to buying the tubing, and fittings separately. And if you have never assembled braided line before, it can be very tricky stuff to work with!
If you don't position the tubing/hose properly within the fitting, you can end up with a real mess or worse; oil starvation and engine damage.

 

[SDLiberty]

Looking at the pictures again... I take it there isn't enough room to put the new sending unit on the tee fitting because of the belt right?

How about using a male to female elbow instead of the pipe thread to compression elbow, then you could put the new sensor on the added elbow, looks like there would be enough room if you angled it upward slightly, or it might even be able to sit side-by-side with the stock sending unit, hard to tell from pictures but i bet it could be done without the added line.

The reason for moving the sender to the wheel well is the size of the sender. The electric senders are HUGE and really didn't like the idea of something that big hanging off the block.

And the question about the braided line.... Yes i agree that a breaded line will prevent any problems down the road. Pre made one for sure! I do believe Auto Meter sells then for there gauges. Thanks for the Criticism. Really! Custom mods need to be safe for all others who attemp them. All opinions are welcome.

 

[SDLiberty]

Summit Racing has Braided lines for gauges. Ordered mine, should be here in a day or two. Thanks again guys!

 

[kb0nly]

Yeah i second the pre-made line. I watched a guy assembly one before, and he has years experience doing them, he says every now and then he still F's up a connection, so if that's the case i probably wouldn't even attempt one as a newb... lol

 

[Phil + Neela]

I know is this an old post, but I have a question...

Anyone that's done this project, how did you ensure that oil actually made it to the remote sending unit? Do you just fill the tube with oil? or have to mount it below the pressure-check port? I just want to make sure I'm doing it right and not getting false readings from an air bubble after my install.

Thanks!

 

[Phil + Neela]

Bump...

Almost have all the parts I need, just waiting on the brass T and some braided steel hose. Oh, and some free time...

 

[Phil + Neela]

Anyone?

 

[Phil + Neela]

Well, I have all the parts ready, just waiting on some free time off work so I can really get down and do this project.

Still wondering about the oil getting in the line for the remote sender...

 

[Phil + Neela]

Here we go!
6 years
3 houses
And 2 kids later...

I finally go around to doing this!!!

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Started with these parts.

The brass T goes where the stock oil pressure sensor is (right above the oil filter).
The original sensor and the braided steel tube both screw into the tee AFTER you install it into the block. Space is too tight to put it together before installing into the block.

I also paired this with an oil change since the filter needed to be off to reach the sensor itself. Just a quick unclipping of the wiring harness from the sensor and a 27mm socket with extension to remove it.

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I got everything snug and sealed with Teflon tape after a heck of a time screwing everything in with almost no room to work. Make sure to use pliers to get the tee snugly into the block—hand tight will NOT work out for you.

I made sure to route the hose (and wiring) away from the belt and zip tie it in place on one of the cooling hoses. The oil pressure sensing unit had to be on the extended hose simply because there is not enough room for it to fit directly on the tee itself.

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Don’t worry, it’s not nearly as close to that belt as it looks.

I already did most of the wiring when I installed the gauge pod in 2012 when I put in my transmission temp gauge, so I just had to wire the sending unit up and I was in business.

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It works! The pressure is pretty high when it starts up, but it goes down to reasonable levels after it warms up a bit.

Now I can get a better idea of how hard the engine is working when I tow as well as get quick feedback on whether my oil has dropped too low. I check the oil level frequently due to a very slow leak, but this is added insurance aside from the stock “idiot light”.

Let me know what you all think!


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