First let me give credit to user TSETS for his idea of using PVC to measure the distance for the lift. Most of this is his work with something I came up with to make it even quicker and easier. I liked TSETS plan but I didn't know what size PVC to buy and I don't have the proper tools to cut it exactly 3/8". I would have spent at least 2-3 hours figuring out what size, going to the hardware store, trying to cut two pieces exactly 3/8" and probably redoing it a few times to get it right. So, I thought why mess with it? And, why mess with conduit nuts and have to do extra work getting them in there. They are not there to support weight, only as a measuring device. So what would be an easy way to measure using TSETS idea but without the PVC? How about a 3/8" wood chisel? I just happen to buy a set at Harbor Freight a couple of weeks ago so I measured and sure enough it was exactly 3/8". Trying to use a tape measure or caliper would be a pain trying to get it in there to measure and it probably wouldn't be precise. That's why most people use conduit nuts as spacers. So using TSETS system and my wood chisel this is how I did it in 20 minutes start to finish, once I gathered my jacks and tools. 1. Blocked the rear wheels and jacked the entire front at once using my 4 ton Harbor Freight floor jack. Two jack stands for safeties sake. 2. (The hardest part of the lift) Remove the tires and wheels. I cheated on this part and used an impact wrench. 3. Pulled off the Teraflex bump stops. Pull toward you from the bottom. No tools required. 4. Placed a bottle jack between lower control arm/brake rotor with two 2X4s under jack and top part in the space where the bump stops go. Don't worry about the brake rotor, it only took a little bit of pressure to open up the space. No worries. Sorry, I couldn't get this pic to orient in the proper direction 5. Loosened the upper clevis bolt slightly. Don't loosen too much so that it will lift evenly all the way around. Slowly pumped the jack and the space opened easily without binding. Jacked until I had approximately 3/8" of space between the lower shock seat and the top of the clevis. 6. Use a 3/8" wood chisel as a measuring device and use the jack up or down as needed to get exactly 3/8". (In my case the neighbor's dog ran off with my chisel so he could chew on the handle. Damned dog. I used a small pry bar instead that also measured 3/8", plus 1/32", so actually 13/32", close enough) 7. Tightened the clevis bolt and torqued to 100 Ft.-lbs. 8. Removed the bottle jack and replace bump stop. I used a little water as a lubricate and popped one in by hand. The other one I had to use my 16" Channel Locks to snap it into place. This is all that is needed even when putting them in for the first time. Takes about 10 seconds. No other lubricates, no soaking, and no boiling required. (not to say those aren't good ideas, just not necessary) 9. Replace wheel and tire and repeat on the other side. Do what you want to do in the rear. An extra isolator or whatever and don't forget to have alignment adjusted. It couldn't be easier or quicker.