riptricket
Full Access Member
Someone do this... for me!
HOW TO: Change Transmission Fluid & Filters
- Thread starter riptricket
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
RageOfFury
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2009
- Messages
- 794
- Reaction score
- 0
Lol...with pictures too!
I already begun draining/filling my ****** via the dipstick tube. Drain/filled 13L so far and according to a nifty excel spreadsheet I now have 95% new fluid in there. Very easy and cheap to do.
Gonna drop the pan and change the filter at 60K as the owner's manual calls for.
I already begun draining/filling my ****** via the dipstick tube. Drain/filled 13L so far and according to a nifty excel spreadsheet I now have 95% new fluid in there. Very easy and cheap to do.
Gonna drop the pan and change the filter at 60K as the owner's manual calls for.
glassbrain
New Member
Pretty please.
Don't have pics. recommend letting things cool off some before starting on this.
Get a catch pan that is larger than the trany pan,and will hold at least 6qt..Loosen all the pan bolts,remove the rear and most of the side bolts. Pry the pan loose,be easy it is thin,easy to damage. Let the waterfall of fluid subside.Remove rest of side bolts,more fluid will come down,finally take out front bolts,remove pan. Will see big flat filter unbolt it work it down gently,there is an O-ring on the protrusion/tube of the filter be sure it is removed. Will see what looks like a oil filter remove it,there is a adapter/threaded tube deal it mounts to,new filter ought to have one with it,get the old one out,USE THE NEW STUFF-. Screw can filter on snug,not death tite,put the O-ring on flat filter,seat it in place put bolt in,snug not till your elbow pops. While you where waiting on oil to drain,prior to reinstalling filters,clean the pan out,old RVT off,reapply RVT,..... Put pan up reinstall bolts,add 5qt.fluid,start check for leaks,shift through gears,recheck fluid,will be low,it is cold-do not over fill,drive some,check fluid,if hot and low,a pint will make a huge difference on stick. This is sorta how to do a 45RFE,few minor diffs. with a 42.
Get a catch pan that is larger than the trany pan,and will hold at least 6qt..Loosen all the pan bolts,remove the rear and most of the side bolts. Pry the pan loose,be easy it is thin,easy to damage. Let the waterfall of fluid subside.Remove rest of side bolts,more fluid will come down,finally take out front bolts,remove pan. Will see big flat filter unbolt it work it down gently,there is an O-ring on the protrusion/tube of the filter be sure it is removed. Will see what looks like a oil filter remove it,there is a adapter/threaded tube deal it mounts to,new filter ought to have one with it,get the old one out,USE THE NEW STUFF-. Screw can filter on snug,not death tite,put the O-ring on flat filter,seat it in place put bolt in,snug not till your elbow pops. While you where waiting on oil to drain,prior to reinstalling filters,clean the pan out,old RVT off,reapply RVT,..... Put pan up reinstall bolts,add 5qt.fluid,start check for leaks,shift through gears,recheck fluid,will be low,it is cold-do not over fill,drive some,check fluid,if hot and low,a pint will make a huge difference on stick. This is sorta how to do a 45RFE,few minor diffs. with a 42.
trophyslayer
Banned
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2010
- Messages
- 13
- Reaction score
- 0
I rember seeing this with my new filter from mopar for the 45RFE engine, my transmission is the 2002
CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully
installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT
install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to
install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage to
the transmission will result.
Yes,you are correct,I stand corrected. Good catch.
bouwerge
New Member
I would like to apologize for my english. I am not a native speaker.
The Mopar-filter that i bought hasn't a proper o-ring. The one that came with mine has a flat side. Does anyone know if the flat side has to go up or down? (I understand from above that you may not put the "o-ring" on the filter when you install it, but put it there for the picture) (i am not sure why you may not do it, can anyone explain it for me?)
Is the second filter (that looks like an oilfilter) easely removed by hand or do i need a tool? And does the RTV needs time to dry before i putt in the new transmission-oil?
The Mopar-filter that i bought hasn't a proper o-ring. The one that came with mine has a flat side. Does anyone know if the flat side has to go up or down? (I understand from above that you may not put the "o-ring" on the filter when you install it, but put it there for the picture) (i am not sure why you may not do it, can anyone explain it for me?)
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Is the second filter (that looks like an oilfilter) easely removed by hand or do i need a tool? And does the RTV needs time to dry before i putt in the new transmission-oil?
Last edited:
Used a small filter"socket" wrench on it,came off easily.
RVT,usually let it sit till starts to skim over,then assemble.
from this how to thread a few lower
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38025
I do it too recommend using a shop vac instead of pump seems quicker but noiser
but you still need to drop the pan and change the filter every 30k
but it sure makes droping the pan cleaner if you can drain the fluid out first
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38025
I do it too recommend using a shop vac instead of pump seems quicker but noiser
but you still need to drop the pan and change the filter every 30k
but it sure makes droping the pan cleaner if you can drain the fluid out first
RageOfFury
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2009
- Messages
- 794
- Reaction score
- 0
I used a manual oil pump. Stuck the hose down the ****** dipstick tube. Sucked out 2 quarts, replaced with fresh Mobil Super ATF+4. I repeated that 7 times. She's good to go now.
Last edited:
ThunderbirdJunkie
Bronze Supporter
None of it is new if you're putting new fluid with old fluid.
Mixing new and old fluid just gives you a bunch of old fluid.
RageOfFury
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2009
- Messages
- 794
- Reaction score
- 0
95% new fluid.
Fluid on the dipstick is a nice clear ruby red. Just like new, but 1/3 of the price of a dealer flush.
ThunderbirdJunkie
Bronze Supporter
Cool story, bro.
RageOfFury
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2009
- Messages
- 794
- Reaction score
- 0
I got a pretty cool excel spreadsheet that calculates new vs old fluid when doing a drain/refill like the one I did. If anyone wants it, let me know.
ThunderbirdJunkie
Bronze Supporter
Still wondering how fluid is new when it's mixed with old fluid.
95% of your new fluid has been contaminated by old fluid.
95% of your new fluid has been contaminated by old fluid.
RageOfFury
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2009
- Messages
- 794
- Reaction score
- 0
The metal shavings, if any btw, stay in the pan(filter/magnet). They don't get sucked up through the ****** when you siphon fluid out the ****** dip stick.
I'd checked the fluid I've pulled out very closely. It's a reddish brown with no metal shavings. None that the naked eye can see anyway.
ATF+4 is a long drain interval oil, so I could of left the old fluid in there t'ill 60-70k miles. But I decided to do the drain/refill to get some fresh fluid in there, boost up the additives.
osufans
Full Access Member
i'll try to update this when i do mine. i have a trans-go shift kit waiting to put in, and i'm due for a ****** fluid change, so it's all going in one of these coming weekends. i'm hoping to do it this saturday, but we'll see.
