Head Gasket? Oil Burn and Milky Oil Cap

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Whelan

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
235
Reaction score
9
Location
Milford, CT
So for the past year I have dealt with having to add oil to the 2005 Liberty 3.7L. It started as a small bit, a half quart every 2k miles. I change the oil every 3-5k and as of late have been adding oil at a much higher rate, upwards of 1-2 quarts every 1k miles.

I also noticed that under the cap there is always a whitish mayo product on the cap, it has gone down since I replaced the PCV valve and piping but the oil burn is really concerning now. There are no leaks, no smoking, not even a rough idle on the car to speak of. So at this stage I'm stumped and really trying to avoid going to a mechanic when I am pretty DIY savvy. So the question arises, am I looking at a head gasket issue? Also to note there is no oil in my coolant.

If so what can I do to check this or should I just be safe at 160k miles and replace them anyways. Help!
 

HoosierJeeper

Gold Supporter/Admin
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
20,855
Reaction score
266
Location
Western WI
Milky oil cap is pretty common. Nothing to worry about really.
Milky oil would be a different story...any coolant loss? Any oil leaks? Takes a A LOT of oil to make to the ground, mine doesn't drip yet, but at least the oil pan won't rust anytime soon. :D What brand of PCV valve did you use? Mopar only...aftermarket ones are a crapshoot.
 
Last edited:

Whelan

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
235
Reaction score
9
Location
Milford, CT
To be honest I'm not 100% on the PCV valve as it was replaced sometime ago. The hose assembly was bought in full from a dealer I know that. But I do know that since the PCV replacement the oil loss has actually increased. It clicked into place fine so it wasn't broken but maybe it's a bad PCV?

I've heard a simple blow test could help diagnose if it is faulty, also I did replace the original foam that was there with a newer piece so maybe that is also a culprit? I'm trying to avoid tearing into this thing for gaskets, potential valve seals, but it seems to me such a random thing because even around the engine I do not notice any oil sitting around wet. The plugs are also clean/dry.

How about a bad oil cap? I mean its original so could the O-ring just be bad but again not sure how that would mean oil loss without noticing a leak.
 
Last edited:

HoosierJeeper

Gold Supporter/Admin
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
20,855
Reaction score
266
Location
Western WI
Sometimes the aftermarket ones don't seal right, when they should seal. Just because it rattles doesn't mean it's good.
 

Whelan

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
235
Reaction score
9
Location
Milford, CT
That makes sense, it did rattle but could very well be defective. I'm racking my brain if it was a Mopar part of not, will have to check receipts when I get home but even still it could be a defective OEM part no? I guess I'm also a little curious why your pretty sure it could be a PCV, just for my own sanity.
 

J33Pfan

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
411
Reaction score
15
Location
NY
Milky oil cap is pretty common. Nothing to worry about really.
Milky oil would be a different story...any coolant loss? Any oil leaks? Takes a A LOT of oil to make to the ground, mine doesn't drip yet, but at least the oil pan won't rust anytime soon. :D What brand of PCV valve did you use? Mopar only...aftermarket ones are a crapshoot.

i guess i wont be in a hurry to fix my little valve cover leak either lol
 

J33Pfan

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
411
Reaction score
15
Location
NY
Sometimes the aftermarket ones don't seal right, when they should seal. Just because it rattles doesn't mean it's good.

are these the correct numbers for 2002 3.7 4x4 liberty PCV ?

05175352AA ; 53030564; 53031135

thanks
 

HoosierJeeper

Gold Supporter/Admin
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
20,855
Reaction score
266
Location
Western WI
That makes sense, it did rattle but could very well be defective. I'm racking my brain if it was a Mopar part of not, will have to check receipts when I get home but even still it could be a defective OEM part no? I guess I'm also a little curious why your pretty sure it could be a PCV, just for my own sanity.

It's something I'd try, costs less than $10 from a dealer. Start with that. If your KJ runs fine and isn't puffing smoke on startup I'd be really surprised if the engine is that worn.
are these the correct numbers for 2002 3.7 4x4 liberty PCV ?

05175352AA ; 53030564; 53031135

thanks

I'm not sure, is yours in the fill tube?
I got 53032800AA. They looked it up by my vin.
 

J33Pfan

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
411
Reaction score
15
Location
NY
It's something I'd try, costs less than $10 from a dealer. Start with that. If your KJ runs fine and isn't puffing smoke on startup I'd be really surprised if the engine is that worn.


I'm not sure, is yours in the fill tube?
I got 53032800AA. They looked it up by my vin.

yea its in the fill tube. look up shows that number on different websites too.
 

uss2defiant

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
3,597
Reaction score
152
Location
Tucson, Arizona
i personally did not experience a difference between aftermarket PCV.
Most likely worn piston rings.
 

J33Pfan

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
411
Reaction score
15
Location
NY
i personally did not experience a difference between aftermarket PCV.
Most likely worn piston rings.

would worn valve guide seals use that much oil?

how many valves on a 3.7l ?
 
Last edited:

Logan Savage

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2015
Messages
245
Reaction score
0
Location
WV
If valve guide seals are bad you'll usually get blue smoke out the tailpipe at first startup then slacking off or going away . 2 valves per cylinder or 12 total on a 3.7 V6 . I'd do dry & wet compression checks .
 
Last edited:

Whelan

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
235
Reaction score
9
Location
Milford, CT
OK so an update after this weekend. I did some digging and found that there is no dripping under the car or buildup of oil elsewhere outside the motor. No smoke out of the tailpipe and the coolant is clear (of course that orange/reg tint but clear). What I did find is that the PCV I replaced was indeed a Chrysler/Mopar part but there was a significant buildup of oil on the sponge in the airbox where the PCV hose connects, it was captured on the air filter itself as well. Then when I popped the hose off the PCV valve the milky oil was dripping/running out and the PCV itself looks gunked up with the stuff. So more than the typical "on the oil fill cap".

Plenty of pics below, is it possible that something like a bad oil cap could cause this or am I looking at a valve cover seal problem or something else?

Oil in the airbox
You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images


Oil on airbox sponge and air filter
You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images


Mopar PCV valve all gunked up
You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images


PCV hose dripping milky substance
You must be registered for see images
 

LibertyTC

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
9,081
Reaction score
1,747
Location
B.C. Canada
Poor Sponge Bob needs replacement.
58803[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach

Maybe I missed it, but how many miles on this engine? If high mileage consider a compression test.
What exact oil are you using, Lots of blow by! Using a full synthetic might help !
This is very similar to many 3.7 vanilla pudding build ups Link: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/pcv-positive-crancase-ventilation-tsb-59367/
The re-designed larger pcv and hoses re-route here: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/upgrade-your-pcv-system-tsb-25-001-08-a-59416/
 

Attachments

  • Sponge%20Bob%20New_1.jpg
    Sponge%20Bob%20New_1.jpg
    51.5 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:

Whelan

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
235
Reaction score
9
Location
Milford, CT
That will help a lot, I actually had the worst time finding this spong part and even the dealership had no clue and said there was no replacement so I just put a piece of cut out foam there, this helps A LOT, I replaced it about 1 year ago.

160k miles, currently using Castrol 5W-30 High Mileage non-synthetic, I'm a pretty loyal Castrol person and been using this for quite awhile.
Maybe I missed it, but how many miles on this engine? If high mileage consider a compression test.

I'll look into the links, the PCV hose I bought last year as well since the old one had a crack in it and was fairly brittle. Thanks.

Actually, can you post the full Part # for that foam piece?

Also here is the list I comprised from that thread, looks to be about $115 in parts for the two hoses, new PCV, filler tube, cap. From my readings it looks like this was used on newer Liberty's, basically it removes the PCV from the oil filler and the PCV only exists on one valve cover? I'm not really understand the logic for the change but it seems to have helped a lot of people.

You must be registered for see images
 
Last edited:

LibertyTC

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
9,081
Reaction score
1,747
Location
B.C. Canada
The thicker Dino oil is part of the problem. Try this oil then: Castrol EDGE High Mileage | Castrol EDGE Synthetic Engine Oils Range | Synthetic Oil, Synthetic Motor Oil | Motor Oil, Engine Oil | Castrol - Motor Oil, Engine Oils, Full Synthetic Oil, Transmission Fluid and Lubricants
I am not surprised the dealer had no clue, I walked in asked them to pull up the airbox fiche, and then pointed @ the small filter, and exclaimed "Hello Mr Sponge Bob" LOL..
They had em in stock! $5.
The TSB/Re-Design takes the small pcv that likes to plug up, out of the equation.
I have zero problems now in the new filler neck etc.
I always use full syn engine oils which are much better overall,especially in cold weather.

Edit the filter part is 05066076AA link: https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/FILTER-Crankcase-Vent-Located-In-Body/6743977/05066076AA.html
 
Last edited:

HoosierJeeper

Gold Supporter/Admin
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
20,855
Reaction score
266
Location
Western WI
Someone on bob is the oil guy with a 4.7 something tried a bunch of different dino and syn oils to see if it made a difference and it didn't. I was surprised.
 

renegade 04

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2014
Messages
1,466
Reaction score
18
Location
Albany New York
I know for my engine I must run 15w-50 full synthetic or my engine will burn lots of oil. I can actually measure how much it taken in throw the pcv because I have a catch can set up. I found that running 10w-40 full synthetic was leading to increased oil burning, then once I switch to the 15w-50 it now burns only a small fraction of what it was. I also run mobil one full synthetic.
 

Whelan

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
235
Reaction score
9
Location
Milford, CT
I guess I need to read up on oil weights a bit, I always just stuck with the OEM recommend of 5W-30. However on my car I did switch from 5W-40 to 30 because you cannot buy the Castrol 5-40 full synthetic in the large 5Qt containers easily.
 

JasonJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
1,521
Reaction score
51
Location
Michigan
I know for my engine I must run 15w-50 full synthetic or my engine will burn lots of oil. I can actually measure how much it taken in throw the pcv because I have a catch can set up. I found that running 10w-40 full synthetic was leading to increased oil burning, then once I switch to the 15w-50 it now burns only a small fraction of what it was. I also run mobil one full synthetic.

That's crazy thick oil for anything other than a farm tractor or a diesel!
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top