Front end rebuild parts list/questions

[Royy]

My '05 KJ has a little bit of loose steering, and some occasional squeaking from the front end. Furthermore, apparently the previous owner didn't think it was necessary to wash the undercarriage in a state where the roads are covered in snow, slush, ice and salt for about six months every year. As a result, many of the suspension components are pretty rusty.

I'm planning on replacing most of it, including parts that still seem to be fine at this point. I don't have any maintenance records from the previous owner, but I'm thinking that almost all of these components are still original, and after 140K miles... If I'm pulling stuff apart anyway, I might as well replace a bit more so I don't have to pull it apart again anytime soon.

Could you guys have a look at this list of parts and see if there's anything obvious that's missing? Control arms and stuff are pretty straightforward. But my knowledge is lacking when it comes to axle related components, so it wouldn't surprise me if I've missed something there.

Sway bar bushings, sway bar links, and all rear control arms have already been replaced.

TIMKEN HA590458, Bearing & hub assembly, front non-ABS X2
CARDONE SELECT 663351, CV half shaft assembly, front left
CARDONE SELECT 663352, CV half shaft assembly, front right
TIMKEN SL260031, Axle shaft seal X2
MOPAR 5066056AB, Axle shaft bearing X2
I'm unclear as to the exact location of the axle shaft seals and bearings. Will these be easily accessible once I pull out the old CV half shaft assembly? Or are they part of this assembly?

MOOG K80767 Problem Solver, Front lower ball joint X2
MOOG CK3198 Problem Solver, Front upper control arm w/ ball joint X2
MEVOTECH CMS25152 X-Factor, Front left lower control arm
MEVOTECH CMS25153 X-Factor, Front right lower control arm
I went with Mevotech LCAs because Moog doesn't offer them in their Problem Solver series, only the lower quality R-series. Mopar ones simply are way too expensive for me at this point.

MOPAR 6102252AA, Lower control arm lock nut X4
MOPAR 6508907AA, Adjust cam X4
MOPAR 6507275AA, Lower control arm bolt X4
The hardware on the current LCAs is completely rusted over, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's seized and I have to cut it all apart in order to get it off. It's hard to make out what the original bolts on there look like. I found two different kinds of bolts for the LCAs. Do I need both kinds?

MOOG ES3536 Problem Solver, Right outer tie rod end
MOOG ES3535 Problem Solver, Left outer tie rod end
MOOG EV800407 Problem Solver, Inner tie rod end X2

Thanks!

 

[krisP]

for cv axles get napa remand , all others or anything "new" tend to be the wrong length. And check steering rack ( bushings lines for leaks etc..) theres a few posts on here on what to look for since steering is loose. Also i didnt see the iner mid shaft in your parts list ( part of front passenger cv axle )...youll need that

 

[tommudd]

Yes would not use those CVs
and I see no mention of the Intermediate shaft , should always replace it when replacing CVs

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I'm not sure if Mevotech stuff is good either. Crown stuff intrigues me since they're a Mopar supplier and their price isn't bad.

x2 on checking the rack

 

[justjeeps]

My '05 KJ has a little bit of loose steering, and some occasional squeaking from the front end. Furthermore, apparently the previous owner didn't think it was necessary to wash the undercarriage in a state where the roads are covered in snow, slush, ice and salt for about six months every year. As a result, many of the suspension components are pretty rusty.

I'm planning on replacing most of it, including parts that still seem to be fine at this point. I don't have any maintenance records from the previous owner, but I'm thinking that almost all of these components are still original, and after 140K miles... If I'm pulling stuff apart anyway, I might as well replace a bit more so I don't have to pull it apart again anytime soon.

Could you guys have a look at this list of parts and see if there's anything obvious that's missing? Control arms and stuff are pretty straightforward. But my knowledge is lacking when it comes to axle related components, so it wouldn't surprise me if I've missed something there.

Sway bar bushings, sway bar links, and all rear control arms have already been replaced.

TIMKEN HA590458, Bearing & hub assembly, front non-ABS X2
CARDONE SELECT 663351, CV half shaft assembly, front left
CARDONE SELECT 663352, CV half shaft assembly, front right
TIMKEN SL260031, Axle shaft seal X2
MOPAR 5066056AB, Axle shaft bearing X2
I'm unclear as to the exact location of the axle shaft seals and bearings. Will these be easily accessible once I pull out the old CV half shaft assembly? Or are they part of this assembly?

MOOG K80767 Problem Solver, Front lower ball joint X2
MOOG CK3198 Problem Solver, Front upper control arm w/ ball joint X2
MEVOTECH CMS25152 X-Factor, Front left lower control arm
MEVOTECH CMS25153 X-Factor, Front right lower control arm
I went with Mevotech LCAs because Moog doesn't offer them in their Problem Solver series, only the lower quality R-series. Mopar ones simply are way too expensive for me at this point.

MOPAR 6102252AA, Lower control arm lock nut X4
MOPAR 6508907AA, Adjust cam X4
MOPAR 6507275AA, Lower control arm bolt X4
The hardware on the current LCAs is completely rusted over, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's seized and I have to cut it all apart in order to get it off. It's hard to make out what the original bolts on there look like. I found two different kinds of bolts for the LCAs. Do I need both kinds?

MOOG ES3536 Problem Solver, Right outer tie rod end
MOOG ES3535 Problem Solver, Left outer tie rod end
MOOG EV800407 Problem Solver, Inner tie rod end X2

Thanks!

Strut assembly while you are there.

As for some of the carriage bolts / nuts they will be Dealer only - I had to replace the bolt / nut on the lCA for the strut on one side and it was almost 100.

The LCA ball joint is a bear to get out it will require a special ball joint press, a torch, breaker bar, big hammer and some nerve to smack it under a lot of pressure...made me jump when mine came loose on my 02. You could just replace the bushings on the LCA since you will have the ball joint tool kit.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Mine was easy to pop out of the LCA..just put a block of wood on the jack under the stud and then whack the LCA with the BFH. Took my knuckle to a shop to have the BJ pressed out.

 

[Royy]

for cv axles get napa remand , all others or anything "new" tend to be the wrong length. And check steering rack ( bushings lines for leaks etc..) theres a few posts on here on what to look for since steering is loose. Also i didnt see the iner mid shaft in your parts list ( part of front passenger cv axle )...youll need that

Yes would not use those CVs
and I see no mention of the Intermediate shaft , should always replace it when replacing CVs

Thanks! I'm normally a bit wary of using remanufactured parts, but I'll take the experts' advise!
Is 5066057AB the right part number for those intermediate shafts?

I'm not sure if Mevotech stuff is good either. Crown stuff intrigues me since they're a Mopar supplier and their price isn't bad.

x2 on checking the rack

I used some of their products on my previous car ('03 Explorer), and they seemed to hold up fine. And this is their higher quality line. Since the LCAs are basically just pieces of metal with some bushings, I figure it'll be fine.

Strut assembly while you are there.


As for some of the carriage bolts / nuts they will be Dealer only - I had to replace the bolt / nut on the lCA for the strut on one side and it was almost 100.

The LCA ball joint is a bear to get out it will require a special ball joint press, a torch, breaker bar, big hammer and some nerve to smack it under a lot of pressure...made me jump when mine came loose on my 02. You could just replace the bushings on the LCA since you will have the ball joint tool kit.

I thought about doing the struts as well, but decided against it. Ride quality is still fine (though it would of course be better with new struts), so I can't really justify spending another $500 or so on replacing those at this point.

The bolts for the LCAs are around $12 each on the Mopar parts sites, and nuts $2-4 (assuming that the part numbers in my list are the right ones).

The reason I want to get completely new LCAs is because of all the rust on the current ones. I probably could clean them up and reuse them, but getting the bushings pressed out and in with all that rust would probably be a huge pain. Getting new ones will cost a bit more, but it'll probably save me an enormous amount of frustration.

 

[NoVA_KJ]

Bump. I have virtually bthe same parts list either on order or already purchased/installed. However, I've been hesitant to pull the trigger on the Moog UCA's since a. the ball joints aren't greasable, and b. I've read countless reviews saying they didn't come pre-greased. Does anyone have any experience with that?

 

[kejobe]

I'd stay away from Mevotech. Got their track bar when I had my '01 Ram, was replacing it again in 1 month. 2 weeks of which I was trying to figure out what went wrong in the front end. I wasn't checking the track bar cuz it was new. Well, it was the track bar. Got a Moog and it lasted over 2 years of having a plow on it also. I didn't have the plow when I had the Mevotech either. Sold truck so I don't know how long Moog lasted/is lasting.

At the same time I got all new Mevotech steering linkage. After 6 months I ended up replacing all of it again.

Breakdown:

Track bar, all steering linkage replaced with Mevotech.
1 month later, new track bar.
5 months later, all linkage replaced again.
2 years later, sold truck without replacing any of it again.

Just like Rough Country shocks. Shocks are ok at best. Bushings blew out after 6-8 weeks.

 

[kejobe]

Bump. I have virtually bthe same parts list either on order or already purchased/installed. However, I've been hesitant to pull the trigger on the Moog UCA's since a. the ball joints aren't greasable, and b. I've read countless reviews saying they didn't come pre-greased. Does anyone have any experience with that?

Now I see this was bumped after my last post. :icon_confused: Haven't finished my coffee yet.

Anyway, I have no clue. I know it doesn't help. Although Moog is "supposed" to be good though.

 

[Myke]

Now I see this was bumped after my last post. :icon_confused: Haven't finished my coffee yet.

Anyway, I have no clue. I know it doesn't help. Although Moog is "supposed" to be good though.

Go jba uca if you can. I don't have any info on the moogs but with the jba you can rebuild the ball joint if needed.

 

[kejobe]

Go jba uca if you can. I don't have any info on the moogs but with the jba you can rebuild the ball joint if needed.

If keeping for awhile, I agree. Otherwise, off the shelf should be ok. Reason is, the parts store UCA's are half the cost. I have JBA's on mine, but were already there when I bought it, so I didn't have the issue of "worth it or not". But worth the cost if wanting to upgrade.

 

[ltd02]

Bump. I have virtually bthe same parts list either on order or already purchased/installed. However, I've been hesitant to pull the trigger on the Moog UCA's since a. the ball joints aren't greasable, and b. I've read countless reviews saying they didn't come pre-greased. Does anyone have any experience with that?

I can't imagine that they'd come ungreased if they are not greaseable. I put a Dorman on my 05's passenger side recently when I noticed the boot was practically gone. Mine is very low mileage and probably rotted from no use. It was not greaseable but you could feel grease if you pressed. They aren't gonna overload them as this could cause the boot to rupture under stress too,

The only reason I did this was I had it on the shelf for emergencies and needed to take a few hundred mile trip in a few days so put it on. This sealed unit was probably made by the same company as the Mevotech and/or maybe even the Moog. I plan on keeping this for a bit so plan on putting on the JBA versions soon since the drivers side is deteriorating now too.

 

[Royy]

Bump. I have virtually bthe same parts list either on order or already purchased/installed. However, I've been hesitant to pull the trigger on the Moog UCA's since a. the ball joints aren't greasable, and b. I've read countless reviews saying they didn't come pre-greased. Does anyone have any experience with that?

The Moog UCAs I got were pre-greased. I've been running them for about 25k now with no issues whatsoever. Just make sure you get the Problem Solver ones, not the cheap R-series.