Found a Shop Willing to Install OME Lift Now I Need to Pick Tires

[TomAllyn]

So I'm going to be getting the OME Kit from JBA. When I told the gentleman at JBA I want the lift to be around 2" he said I needed a couple additional parts. So I share that to say I'm hopefully going to have a 2" lift.

I've used the search function and read several threads and I'm still unclear which would be great tires for me. As I've mentioned before I'm not going to go out of my way to do any rock crawling or deep mud runs. For me 4wd is simply a means to get to out of the way Fishing and Camping Spots. Since its also my daily work commuter/grocery run vehicle I would prefer to not lose to much mpg.

I've seen a lot of posts saying that with a 2" lift a 247 75 16 will fit, but may require plastic removal and pinch weld flattening. So I'm not only wondering which tires would be good for me, but also whether 235 75 16 would require the same same removal and flattening and whether I'd lose much performance from that size?

 

[Hedsic]

You will be fine with 245/75R16. I don't think you will have any rub. Now If you get a set of M/T's you might have to trim or pound the pinch weld but I don't think you'd have an issue if you went with a set of Wrangler Duratrac's or something.

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[tlrtucker]

So I'm going to be getting the OME Kit from JBA. When I told the gentleman at JBA I want the lift to be around 2" he said I needed a couple additional parts. So I share that to say I'm hopefully going to have a 2" lift.

The OME springs alone should give you at least 2" of lift (over original factory height). Some claim 2.5" of lift. Adding more "parts" will push you closer to 3" of lift.

What hub to fender measurement are you going for?

 

[TomAllyn]

The OME springs alone should give you at least 2" of lift (over original factory height). Some claim 2.5" of lift. Adding more "parts" will push you closer to 3" of lift.

What hub to fender measurement are you going for?

Truthfully I do not know what I want the measurement to be I have only gone with the idea of a 2" lift, because someone I think it was here said that a 2" lift and 245 75 16's would make my rig do better off road. However, I do have a question about that measurement. The All J site indicates that the measuring should be done at the pinch weld, because measuring at the fender is not as accurate.


I can afford the Dura Tracs, but would like to spend a little less if it is possible to get something just as good that isn't as expensive. I've read about the Cooper AT3's. I've also been looking at the Hurcules Terra Track AT II. Any of these as good as Dura Trac.

 

[Hedsic]

Treadwright.com

 

[tommudd]

Truthfully I do not know what I want the measurement to be I have only gone with the idea of a 2" lift, because someone I think it was here said that a 2" lift and 245 75 16's would make my rig do better off road. However, I do have a question about that measurement. The All J site indicates that the measuring should be done at the pinch weld, because measuring at the fender is not as accurate.


I can afford the Dura Tracs, but would like to spend a little less if it is possible to get something just as good that isn't as expensive. I've read about the Cooper AT3's. I've also been looking at the Hurcules Terra Track AT II. Any of these as good as Dura Trac.

We measure by the middle of the wheel to bottom of the flare since it gives you true amount of lift and where you actually sit. NOW with measuring at the pinch weld it gives you a measurement BUT if you're running a 29 inch tire and I am running a 31 then those are going to be different even if we have the same exact lift.
Where are you now? Measurement wise ? ( middle of wheel to bottom of flare in front) ?
OME will give you 2.25-2.5 inches of lift, 245-75-16s will work but most go to 3 plus inches when running those . Pounding over the pinch weld is easy, just cut the plastic in a V in front of the pinch weld, heat the plastic up so you can bend it out of the way, knock over the PW and then reheat/ reshape the plastic

by the way Duratracs work...period
78,000 on mine LONGEST I have ever had a set of tires on in over 45 years of driving

 

[TomAllyn]

Treadwright.com

Now thats what I'm talk'n about! I've always, believed that in most products there are those that are a genuine high quality bargain, but it takes asking lots of questions to find the. Now I've go to find a shop thats willing for me to send them to since my home is a condo and there's no where to put them at my place. Purhaps I could have them shipped to a UPS store!:grd:

 

[Hedsic]

I ran the MaxTrax on my KJ. I'd rather have had DuraTracs but they where what I could afford at the time. Loud as hell though. I'm getting DuraTracs for the JK though for sure.

 

[TomAllyn]

We measure by the middle of the wheel to bottom of the flare since it gives you true amount of lift and where you actually sit. NOW with measuring at the pinch weld it gives you a measurement BUT if you're running a 29 inch tire and I am running a 31 then those are going to be different even if we have the same exact lift.
Where are you now? Measurement wise ? ( middle of wheel to bottom of flare in front) ?
OME will give you 2.25-2.5 inches of lift, 245-75-16s will work but most go to 3 plus inches when running those . Pounding over the pinch weld is easy, just cut the plastic in a V in front of the pinch weld, heat the plastic up so you can bend it out of the way, knock over the PW and then reheat/ reshape the plastic

by the way Duratracs work...period
78,000 on mine LONGEST I have ever had a set of tires on in over 45 years of driving

tommudd: I really appreciate this reply. Would I need to pound over the pinch weld if I were to get 235's instead of 245's? I have a partial disability in my right (Dominant) right hand and arm and it may not be possible for me to do this without hurting myself. Would I lose much performance with 235's? And where exactly is the pinch weld? Would I need a sledge to knock it over?

Its really hard to admit to myself that I have this physical limitation now as I used to do 90% of the work on my vehicles myself and can't any more.

I'll get the front measurement tomorrow.

 

[Hedsic]

Look at the front tire it's beside the tire in the back in the wheel well behind where the drive door etc is.

In the picture below see that area that is cleaner than the rest. That is where the Pinch weld is. This one has been pounded down. Your's the plastic will be sticking out. (sorry, that was the best pic I could find online)

Despite how it might sound, it's actually extremelly easy to do.

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[TomAllyn]

The measurement is 18.25" from bottom of flare to center of the front wheel.

 

[tommudd]

The measurement is 18 " from bottom of flare to center of the front wheel.

So you are a little more than an inch below new stock height.
With an OME lift of say 2.25 inches , you'll actually be getting over 3.25 to 3.5 from where you are now

 

[TomAllyn]

So you are a little more than an inch below new stock height.
With an OME lift of say 2.25 inches , you'll actually be getting over 3.25 to 3.5 from where you are now

So the OME lift on this page KJ Econo Lift Kits for the KJ | J.B.A. says it is only a 1.5". Are there additional parts I need to purchase to make it a 2.25" lift?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

So the OME lift on this page KJ Econo Lift Kits for the KJ | J.B.A. says it is only a 1.5". Are there additional parts I need to purchase to make it a 2.25" lift?

There are insurance issues in Australia that prevent OME from listing the true lift you receive with their springs. As Tom mentioned, you'll be over 3.25" over where you are now so that's about a 2.5" lift over stock height.

Add some extras and you'll be nearing 4" over where you are now :gr_grin:

Bob

 

[TomAllyn]

Okay I'm about the pull the trigger on the lift. The only reason I'm not going with the Frankenlift is cost. So I've been looking closer at what is in the Frankenlift and wondering if I'd do just as well with either the JBA Iron man Lift kit or the OEM by adding either the Ironman or OEM struts to either kit. I also noticed that the Ironman struts at JBA are height adjustable. Would adding struts make a significant improvement to either kit. Also is there any difference in amount of lift I'd obtain or performance differences between Ironman and OEM?

The other thing I'm wondering is I plan to eventually get some skids as my KJ doesn't have any and possibly a Matrix Brush Guard. Does this effect which springs I should get?

 

[Hedsic]

the JBA adjust a struts are the only ones offered that are adjustable. You are looking at about $1500 for just those. The Ironman's are not adjustable.

I did just notice JBA now offeres Rancho shocks for the KJ. I've never noticed that option before. Anyone know how well they work on the Liberty? I got the RS9000's becasue of all the positive reviews on the JK so I wonder if they are just as good on the KJ

 

[TomAllyn]

the JBA adjust a struts are the only ones offered that are adjustable. You are looking at about $1500 for just those. The Ironman's are not adjustable.

I did just notice JBA now offeres Rancho shocks for the KJ. I've never noticed that option before. Anyone know how well they work on the Liberty? I got the RS9000's becasue of all the positive reviews on the JK so I wonder if they are just as good on the KJ

This one says its adjustable Ironman Front Strut | J.B.A.

Front Strut, Height Adjustable Strut, 0" - 1.50" Lift, Ironman Trim Pack (Optional), use with stock springs or springs for lift, Fits KJ, KK, KA, order 2 for a set
Note: Trim Pack Optional

• Exceptional performance for both standard and raised height 4x4's
• Superior ride control and comfort both on and off road
• Improve stability when towing or carrying a load
• Ironman 2 year / 40,000km Iron Clad Warranty.

Ironman 35mm bore Nitro Gas Shocks are the rugged all round 4x4 performance shock absorber. Ironman Nitro Gas Shocks provide exceptional performance for both standard and raised height 4x4’s while delivering superior ride control and comfort both on and off road. Improves stability when towing or carrying a load

 

[Hedsic]

This one says its adjustable Ironman Front Strut | J.B.A.

Front Strut, Height Adjustable Strut, 0" - 1.50" Lift, Ironman Trim Pack (Optional), use with stock springs or springs for lift, Fits KJ, KK, KA, order 2 for a set
Note: Trim Pack Optional

• Exceptional performance for both standard and raised height 4x4's
• Superior ride control and comfort both on and off road
• Improve stability when towing or carrying a load
• Ironman 2 year / 40,000km Iron Clad Warranty.

Ironman 35mm bore Nitro Gas Shocks are the rugged all round 4x4 performance shock absorber. Ironman Nitro Gas Shocks provide exceptional performance for both standard and raised height 4x4’s while delivering superior ride control and comfort both on and off road. Improves stability when towing or carrying a load

I think it just means you can use it for no lift up to 1.5" of lift. Nothing bigger though. Guess I could be wrong though. but I am pretty sure that is what it's meaning.

 

[tlrtucker]

This one says its adjustable Ironman Front Strut | J.B.A.

Front Strut, Height Adjustable Strut, 0".....

You can add what they call 'trim packs' which basically stiffen up the spring rate, which will result in some extra lift.


From everything you've posted, I strongly recommend going with OME (not OEM) 927 heavy duty springs up front, with the Ironman shocks. That's the set up I have and it's great. It will easy support the added weight of any skids you want to throw at it. But dont let the "heavy duty" throw you off - they don't ride like you think they might. I love the way mine ride and actually wouldn't mind them a tad stiffer, to be honest.

Also, as far as tire size goes - if you want to run 245's, by simply adding a 1/4" top plate and 2 or 3 clevis spacers (gives you an extra 1" of lift and only cost another $30 plus shipping) you can easily clear the tires and not have to worry about the pinch welds. Up front I have OME 927 springs, Ironman shocks, 1/4" top plate and a 2 ring clevis spacer and I'm right at 22" settled in. I also run 245/75r16 Duratrac's and I easily clear everything, with a little rub on the sway bar but only at full lock turning (which is easily avoidable), but I'm also using stock wheels. A 16x7 wheel with 4" backspace would eliminate this problem.

But if you're fine running 235's, the top plates and clevis spacers probably aren't necessary. And the decision as to run 235's or 245's comes down to how much power and mpg loss are you ok with. With 245's you'll notice a power loss and a loss of about 2 mpg (more if you have a heavy foot). 235's wouldn't have much of an affect on power loss or mpg....but would look odd with a 2.5-3" lift, lol

 

[TomAllyn]

Okay I just got off the phone with JBA and I nearly pulled the trigger when he mentioned that I'll eventually, within 2-3 years, need new upper A-arms. If this is the case I'd rather get them done at the same time, but that will add significantly to my cost parts and installation. The JBA A arms are $395.95 are there any that are just as good for less $$$?