Final 3" lift decision/item list - help

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mindbomb

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Hi folks

Haven't been active here for couple of months but now I am finally lifting my 03' sport KJ + adding AT P255/70R16 tires. I recently hit 120k miles but engine is going strong (knock wood).

Currently ride is a bit little bumpy and car feels unstable on highways/turn/over 60mph. Not much sagging has occurred though. Goal is to add some ground clearance, improve ride, make her grip the asphalt better.

I live in the city so the the car is used mainly on weekends trips/grocery shopping/sometimes as DD (although my bike is my real DD). I'd say 90% road 10% off-road. Hope to increase the off roading amount once lifted (and shielded?).

I am considering two configurations:
OME or OME/Bilstein combo. On-road behavior, handling and comfort is important to me.
Here are my shopping baskets for the parts, would appreciate your verification:

Option 1 - OME:
You must be registered for see images attach


Option 2 - OME/Bilstein:

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One item that is not shown here for both options is 4 hockey pucks for rear bump stop replacement. Any other items I missed??
Do I need total of 4 upper isos btw?

What's the right config for me? Consider the ~200$ difference in favor of option 2.

Also if anyone's got recommendation on knowledgable NorCal jeep lift installer please speak.

Many thanks
 

dude1116

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Hi folks

Haven't been active here for couple of months but now I am finally lifting my 03' sport KJ + adding AT P255/70R16 tires. I recently hit 120k miles but engine is going strong (knock wood).

Currently ride is a bit little bumpy and car feels unstable on highways/turn/over 60mph. Not much sagging has occurred though. Goal is to add some ground clearance, improve ride, make her grip the asphalt better.

I live in the city so the the car is used mainly on weekends trips/grocery shopping/sometimes as DD (although my bike is my real DD). I'd say 90% road 10% off-road. Hope to increase the off roading amount once lifted (and shielded?).

I am considering two configurations:
OME or OME/Bilstein combo. On-road behavior, handling and comfort is important to me.
Here are my shopping baskets for the parts, would appreciate your verification:

Option 1 - OME:
You must be registered for see images attach


Option 2 - OME/Bilstein:

You must be registered for see images attach


One item that is not shown here for both options is 4 hockey pucks for rear bump stop replacement. Any other items I missed??
Do I need total of 4 upper isos btw?

What's the right config for me? Consider the ~200$ difference in favor of option 2.

Also if anyone's got recommendation on knowledgable NorCal jeep lift installer please speak.

Many thanks

1) Save yourself some cash...scrap the clevis rings and just use electrical conduit nuts from Home Depot. Something like this:

http://www.garvinindustries.com/images/itemimages/ln-75.jpg

2) For the OME kit, those are not going to come with extended rear shocks...so you will have to split that kit up and get Bilstein shocks in the rear anyway (if those are the rear shocks that you choose). Some say the standard length shocks will work. Others say they will not.

3) I would go for Mopar insulators...as other brands (JBA sells Crown) tend to degrade fairly quickly. I thought Monroe would be good but my fronts are shot.

4) Option 2 is missing front bumpstops.
 
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mindbomb

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Helpful reply, very appreciated!

Few questions:
1. Whats the spec for the conduit nuts? (size/width/diameter etc)
2. You're right! This pretty much voids the whole first option! Why would JBA offer this as a viable lift option anyways?! Thanks!
3. Got a link for the mopar isolators I need?
4. Right. I'll add front bumpstops back to this option too.

Many thanks!


1) Save yourself some cash...scrap the clevis rings and just use electrical conduit nuts from Home Depot. Something like this:

http://www.garvinindustries.com/images/itemimages/ln-75.jpg

2) For the OME kit, those are not going to come with extended rear shocks...so you will have to split that kit up and get Bilstein shocks in the rear anyway (if those are the rear shocks that you choose). Some say the standard length shocks will work. Others say they will not.

3) I would go for Mopar insulators...as other brands (JBA sells Crown) tend to degrade fairly quickly. I thought Monroe would be good but my fronts are shot.

4) Option 2 is missing front bumpstops.
 

dude1116

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Helpful reply, very appreciated!

Few questions:
1. Whats the spec for the conduit nuts? (size/width/diameter etc)
2. You're right! This pretty much voids the whole first option! Why would JBA offer this as a viable lift option anyways?! Thanks!
3. Got a link for the mopar isolators I need?
4. Right. I'll add front bumpstops back to this option too.

Many thanks!

1) I believe they are 2" conduits nuts...and there are really no other specs besides that. They should each be 1/8" wide, giving you the option to use up to three of them per side.

2) I ask that question all the time...unless the stock length shocks have been proven not to top out with this kit. I had them installed with the basic lift (just springs) and they didn't seem to top out at all.

3) Spring Upper Insulator, LEFT for 2004 Jeep Liberty|52088707AA : Dodge Ram Chrysler Jeep SRT Mopar | Mopar Parts and Accessories | Wholesale Prices

Can use that link or use the part number to find it cheaper elsewhere if you can. Note: Left and Right are the same part number. If you're not going to want to take apart your front coilover setup to reuse the upper and lower insulators, and the stock top plate (the one with the bolts), then I would suggest getting those too.

1 of these: http://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/.../front-suspension-****/?part_name=shock-mount

1 of these: http://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/.../front-suspension-****/?part_name=shock-mount

and 4 of these: http://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/...t-suspension-****/?part_name=spring-insulator

Not necessary...but good if you want to keep the old stuff assembled.

4) Good :)
 
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mindbomb

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1) - Cool. Definitely saves some $$. Here I found 10 for 9$: https://www.amazon.com/2-Conduit-Lo...1478040495&sr=8-1&keywords=conduit+nut+2-inch Works?
3a) Looks like this part shape cannot be doubled-down for extended height, am I correct? should I just order 2 of these instead of 4 JBA type isos? searching for this PN in ebay results in isos that look like the JBA ones, not like the diagram. Weird.

3b) OK, I am a bit puzzled about these parts - don't I have to remove the shock mount as part of installation process anyways? also - am I not REQUIRED to take apart the front coilovers if I (a) install new strut and sprint (b) install a new plate? this also increases the lift kit price by ~200$ so I want to understand this correctly. I thought I had to go to a suspension shop to recompress the coilovers with the new parts anyways.


1) I believe they are 2" conduits nuts...and there are really no other specs besides that. They should each be 1/8" wide, giving you the option to use up to three of them per side.

2) I ask that question all the time...unless the stock length shocks have been proven not to top out with this kit. I had them installed with the basic lift (just springs) and they didn't seem to top out at all.

3) Spring Upper Insulator, LEFT for 2004 Jeep Liberty|52088707AA : Dodge Ram Chrysler Jeep SRT Mopar | Mopar Parts and Accessories | Wholesale Prices

Can use that link or use the part number to find it cheaper elsewhere if you can. Note: Left and Right are the same part number. If you're not going to want to take apart your front coilover setup to reuse the upper and lower insulators, and the stock top plate (the one with the bolts), then I would suggest getting those too.

1 of these: Shock Mount for 2004 Jeep Liberty|52128533AA : Dodge Ram Chrysler Jeep SRT Mopar | Mopar Parts and Accessories | Wholesale Prices

1 of these: Shock Mount for 2004 Jeep Liberty|52128532AA : Dodge Ram Chrysler Jeep SRT Mopar | Mopar Parts and Accessories | Wholesale Prices

and 4 of these: Spring Insulator for 2004 Jeep Liberty|52088686AA : Dodge Ram Chrysler Jeep SRT Mopar | Mopar Parts and Accessories | Wholesale Prices

Not necessary...but good if you want to keep the old stuff assembled.

4) Good :)
 
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tommudd

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First how much lift do you want, what I am seeing you will have 3.5-3.75 with top plates and clevis.
Springs =2.5 inch
1/4 inch top plate = 1/2 inch
3/8 inch clevis = 3/4 inch
so 3.75

When you answer the above question then and only then can we answer what you need for the rear
 

jeeplib05

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And at that height you'll need UCAs as well
I'd stay in the 3"-3 1/4" lift range as going higher leads to spending more money
I'd scrap the top plates (or ONLY do top plates and maybe one clevis ring), get OME927/948, Bilstein rear shocks (and bushing kit) and bilstein fronts or OME fronts, add 3 ring clevis (if you decide not to get top plates, which would be cheaper in the end) and one rear iso in the rear
You'll sit level and won't need (most likely) UCAs unless yours are shot already

And remember that once you get a lift on your KJ you may uncover more hidden issues since things will be at a different angle, so put some money aside for unexpected issues like that as well
 

mindbomb

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Touching current UBJs in my hand doesn't feel dry/rotten to me but I am no pro at checking the stock UCAs... I do get loud thud sounds from left front suspension on hard turns (probably not the UCAs though).

However, if replacing the UCAs will improve the ride quality I'd shell out another 400$ (and gain 0.75" lift I guess, but I'd rather invest this money on skids).

If not - you say basically lose the top plates?
also - what unexpected issues? that's scary. Lift+tires+install will def be ~2000$ with no UCAs calc'd in.
 
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jeeplib05

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Touching current UBJs in my hand doesn't feel dry/rotten to me but I am no pro at checking the stock UCAs... I do get loud thud sounds from left front suspension on hard turns (probably not the UCAs though).

However, if replacing the UCAs will improve the ride quality I'd shell out another 400$ (and gain 0.75" lift I guess, but I'd rather invest this money on skids).

If not - you say basically lose the top plates?
also - what unexpected issues? that's scary. Lift+tires+install will def be ~2000$ with no UCAs calc'd in.

It could be a number of things that come up, different bushings, mounts, etc could be shot and you won't know until they're at a different angle
I would just stay in the range of lift I said previously, so then you wouldn't need to worry about UCAs
If you're wanting to be at 3" of lift you could just do 2 ring clevis, but if you want 3 1/4" then add 3
You wouldn't be out as much money for top plates, which if you add top plate AND 3 ring clevis you'd be too high for stock UCAs
I'm at 3 1/4" of lift and I wouldnt want to go any higher from looking at my UBJs
 

mindbomb

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Question:
Adding top plate and getting a 1/4" lift vs adding a single conduit nut to clevis and getting 1/4" lift - does the latter "worsen" the angle for the stock UCA and the first does not or both do?

It could be a number of things that come up, different bushings, mounts, etc could be shot and you won't know until they're at a different angle
I would just stay in the range of lift I said previously, so then you wouldn't need to worry about UCAs
If you're wanting to be at 3" of lift you could just do 2 ring clevis, but if you want 3 1/4" then add 3
You wouldn't be out as much money for top plates, which if you add top plate AND 3 ring clevis you'd be too high for stock UCAs
I'm at 3 1/4" of lift and I wouldnt want to go any higher from looking at my UBJs
 

tommudd

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Question:
Adding top plate and getting a 1/4" lift vs adding a single conduit nut to clevis and getting 1/4" lift - does the latter "worsen" the angle for the stock UCA and the first does not or both do?

Adding 1/4 inch top plate gets you 1/2 inch lift
And don't let some things scare you, mostly what you have show up afterwards is the rear u-joints showing their age running at a different angle
 
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mindbomb

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Cool, but you didn't answer my question.

Adding 1/4 inch top plate gets you 1/2 inch lift
And don't let some things scare you, mostly what you have show up afterwards is the rear u-joints showing their age running at a different angle
 

tommudd

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Cool, but you didn't answer my question.

But its been answered, or think it has
Adding either a top plate OR a clevis ( the same height ) does the same thing, neither worsens the stock UCAs more than the other if that is all that you are adding, one or the other
 

tommudd

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With stock UCAs I never advise anyone to go over 3 inches, even at that height the stockers are put on more of a bind and will in fact wear more .
Actually if you get down to it any amount of lift puts more stress and wear on stock parts but going over the 3 to 3.25 mark does on anything, even your XJs, TJs, JK etc
 

mindbomb

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Great thanks.
I think I'll get the top plates and also a bunch of conduit nuts (cheap). Will probably install the plates and one 1/8" clevis nut and be done with it (to sit at 3.25"), or just skip the clevis altogether.


But its been answered, or think it has
Adding either a top plate OR a clevis ( the same height ) does the same thing, neither worsens the stock UCAs more than the other if that is all that you are adding, one or the other
 

tommudd

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Great thanks.
I think I'll get the top plates and also a bunch of conduit nuts (cheap). Will probably install the plates and one 1/8" clevis nut and be done with it (to sit at 3.25"), or just skip the clevis altogether.

Personally I would just do the top plate, stay at 3 inches
 

jeeplib05

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Doubt it
It wouldn't be anything you would notice anyhow considering you're getting all new suspension parts
If you're just doing top plate and maybe adding one clevis ring then you shouldn't need UCAs
 

dude1116

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1) - Cool. Definitely saves some $$. Here I found 10 for 9$: https://www.amazon.com/2-Conduit-Lo...1478040495&sr=8-1&keywords=conduit+nut+2-inch Works?
3a) Looks like this part shape cannot be doubled-down for extended height, am I correct? should I just order 2 of these instead of 4 JBA type isos? searching for this PN in ebay results in isos that look like the JBA ones, not like the diagram. Weird.

3b) OK, I am a bit puzzled about these parts - don't I have to remove the shock mount as part of installation process anyways? also - am I not REQUIRED to take apart the front coilovers if I (a) install new strut and sprint (b) install a new plate? this also increases the lift kit price by ~200$ so I want to understand this correctly. I thought I had to go to a suspension shop to recompress the coilovers with the new parts anyways.

3a) The part diagram definitely looks weird but you'll get the same shape as the one JBA lists.

3b) You don't HAVE to take the old front coilover apart if you don't want to. I didn't. I bought the new hardware that I listed to create a whole new coilover assembly with the new OME shocks and coils. Otherwise, you can have the front coilovers disassembled and use the stock insulators and mounting plates.


And as for the conduit vs top plate debate...if you're not getting JBA arms I actually vote for using conduits. HEAR ME OUT: Conduits on the bottom of the shock are just a bit easier to adjust up and down. You don't have to take the whole coilover assembly out just to add or remove height. If you are pushing the limit for your stock UCAs, then I would want the easier possibility to adjust the lift down a bit.

In a circumstance where you might want to adjust the lift UP a bit more (with UCAs...), I would always say install the top plate first...since that's the biggest pain in the butt to get to in the front suspension.
 
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tommudd

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OK I heard you out but why would you need to adjust anything
Top plate and done
PLUS when it comes down to it you do not need any conduit nuts at all anyways
Its just a measuring tool, so if anyone wants to raise simple matter of pry up on the bottom of the shock ( after you loosen the clevis bolt of course)
Do top plate first, then later if you want to add in JBA UCAs then just loosen the clevis bolt, slide the clevis down 3/8 of an inch and DONE. Otherwise well you get the idea
 

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