Discussion in 'KJ General Discussion' started by Jarola, Oct 16, 2009.
Are there any products out there that help to remove and prevent it?
Change your oil on schedule and use a good quality oil. Best thing you can do.
Is using synthetic oil recommended? How long would one go between oil changes?
I use syn.,change 3000m or so.
One should read the book in the glove box
That too,have been feeling magnanimous today.
Don't have a book, if my questions annoy you, please let me know.
They do not. It's a generally (stress on 'generally') friendly place. Sometimes people will expend the energy to write three paragraphs telling you why you should RTFA, read the FAQ or search the site before asking questions when they could answer your question with one sentence... or even post a link to a previous post or the FAQ itself.
We enjoy having new members who haven't spent months reading posts or perusing the FAQ's. Because if we're friendly and patient with new users, they'll stay and contribute to the content of the site! What a concept!
Not at all annoyed
ok then here is the $5.00 answer
engine sludge is often caused by 2 things the first is
cheep oil and poor quality filters
the second is frequent short trips where the oil does not heat up good
there is no way to get rid of it ,no magic cleaner
best thing to do is start with a good filter and full syn. oil
as to which type
brand I like is Mobile 1 or Royal Purple
as to weight ,that depends on the climate you live in
change it every 3-5k on full syn
Are you sure? It is always fun to see how suprised people are that they do actually have a manual. Check the glovebox again, this time look into the manual slot ABOVE the main area of the glove box. It is hard to see because:
1) who has two seperate areas in a glove box???
2) it is obscured by the "oh crap" handle above the glove box.
Edit: I'd like to see ThunderbirdJunkie reply and discuss the addition of 1 quart of transmission fluid to your engine oil...
It really depends on how much you drive and what type of driving you do. If you change youre oil yourself theres no reason not to use synthetic. Its only $20 for a 5 quart jug at walmart(valvoline) so its by all means not expensive. Those quick lube places will stick it to ya though. My brother uses syn only but didnt have time to change it one time, they charged him $70 for a syn oil change. 100% stupid.
If you drive a lot on the highway and really rack up the miles personally I think its ok to go 5,000 miles given youre using synthetic. If you do a lot of city driving or take lots of short trips then its best to stick with 3,000 miles changes.
If you dont use syn I would stay with 3,000 mile changes irregardless.
Now you have an owners manual:
I use that STP engine flush. Before you change the oil; with the motor at operating temp, dump the stuff in at idle. Run it at 2000 RPMs for about 5 minutes, then change the oil. Sludge can clog up the oil pickup, that's the real danger. It can also clog the return holes in the head, keeping all the oil up top. My uncle had this happen to him with an Intrepid. One bank was clogged up, and all the oil was sitting in the valve train. It SLOWLY got back to the pan, but the damage was already done to the engine.
Just something I read, NOT religion:
Some people use Transmission fluid to flush an engine too.
Everyone also attested to Mobile 1 Synthetic oil as a good cleaner. You can change the oil with that, run it for 500 miles, then change it again.
Most sludge is due to neglect, the oil being left in too long, or too many additives. If you use dino oil, and change the oil very 3000 miles, you should not get any sludge. Synthetic is different, and can stay in longer.
There are many opinions and facts. If you want to clean it, thoroughly, then you will have to do THREE oil changes/flushes in a row, at 500 miles each, to clean it out. Synthetic oil is not cheap, so, use a flush agent with regular oil the first two times, then the 3rd change with synthetic and leave it in.
This is not factual or anything, it's what I have done, and never had any engine failures.
Still, all mechanics say, change the oil every 3000 miles, RELIGIOUSLY, and you won't ever have a problem, and the engine will last. You won't need additives or synthetic if you simply change the dino oil at 3000 miles, with no more than a 200 mile overage.
When I first bought mine used, I ordered a new one because I didn't think I had one. The day I picked up the new one, I found the old one...
So, I have an extra for a 2005.
Took me a couple days to find mine too!
Haha mine was sort of the opposite situation...I had the original 2005 manual in the cubby space in the glove compartment AND a 2007 manual in the passenger door storage.
The 2007 had no prob selling on ebay
Had no probs finding my manual....
As for oil, use a good oil (doesn't have to synthetic) and a good filter. AKA, don't use Fram, or Mopar filters. Mopar filters are produced by Fram I believe. Motor Craft and Purealator are both good brands.
I swear by mobil 1 and purolator brands. In the winter I like the extra durability of the KN filters, but the rest of the time the Purolator Gold is good. They recently went to a textured outside coating wich makes things nice and ergonomic, although the 3.7L is really easy to reach anyhow.
When I restore tractor engines that have sat a long time(sometimes decades) and have real sludge, I drain what I can, and do a 50/50 fill of plain oil and Marvel Mystery oil. Run it a while and drain it all out, repeat. The last engine I did was filled to the dipstick hole with water and black/white sludge. Did that and it is clean gold now.
Most of what was stated is pretty incorrect,from working in the auto business for 1/3 of my life the #1 reason for engine sludge is short trips where the engine never reaches operating temps.The 2nd is Pennzoil,great oil but a nightmare after running it for some time.Full synthetic oil will clean your engine out after about 2-3 oil changes.Do not use that engine flush crap,it's just kerosene and can do more damage then good(same goes for seafoam).
The best way is to use good oil and a good oil filter and change them on a regular basis,3000miles is the best and that is a proven fact from over 90% of the ASE Master Tech's in the US(who see the real world testing rather then the "controlled" short term testing others use).
I use Castrol GTX and change every 3000 miles or three months, whatever comes first, and thats what i have always done.
I have contemplated moving up to the Castrol Full Synthetic.. But something just rubs me wrong about 5k oil changes, i guess i'm stuck in my ways!
I will tell you one thing about the GTX blend, when i buy a vehicle and start doing the oil changes i find the first 2-3 changes using the GTX the oil will look DARK when i drain it, but as time goes by, 4, 5, 6 changes the oil gets progressively lighter. So in my opinion it does seem to be cleaning crap out of the engine over time, would probably go quicker if a guy changed ever 2k for for a few oil changes, etc..
On the minivan we used to have by the third oil change the oil was just a bit dark, the first oil change was like black coffee. On the KJ my third oil change looked like it wasn't even due, the second oil change was really dark, and the first oil change doesn't count because i don't know what oil it actually had in it to begin with.
So it does seem the anti-sludge formulation of the Castrol GTX does make a difference in cleaning and keeping it clean. I'm not trying to sell any oil here, just telling you my experience with it. That's thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!
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