Dropped the `07 off at a dealer today; 30k mi svc. recommendations

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Awww KJ

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I love almost never having to deal with this stuff. :p

We were headed to my father-in-law's house yesterday and starting resulted only in clicking. The battery was at 2.0v. I drug out my charger (125amp) to jump it, took it with us and jumped it again at his house, and jumped it again so as to take it to the dealer this morning. So it'll get a new battery today. (the heat here is tough on batts.) And I'm even having them do an oil change because with school and work and stuff, I just want it done (I'm ashamed of this. sad2.gif )

Okay so the service guy asked if we were ready for the 30k services. Coolant flush, trans. flush, differential fluid changes (it's 4x4) and fuel system flush.

So the relevant part of my thread: I was going to grab a Felpro RDS55047 gasket for the rear diff. What's the gear oil weight & amt. spec'd for the front and rear diffs?

Autozone has a trans filter w/gasket TF175. What fluid is spec'd in `07 and what amount?

Should the coolant be Dex + distilled 50/50?

I'm guessing the fuel system flush just a scambolina? AZ and Oreilly's don't list a fuel filter - I'm guessing the in-tank includes it and it's $600+ but does it include the regulator and some lube? ;)

Do we have a link to the service recommendations somewhere? The owner's manual is obviously not with me at the moment...
 

Awww KJ

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RageOfFury

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Front diff : 80W-90
Rear diff : 75W-90 (or 75W140 if your towing)
Transmission (42RLE) : ATF+4
Transfer case : ATF+4
Coolant : Zerex G-05 (The coolant however is good for 5y/100 000 miles so no need to change it at only 30k.)

Fuel system doesn't need a flush. Just buy Pennzoil's Fuel System Cleaner and poor that into a full tank of fuel and voila done.
 

kb0nly

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I plan on using 75w-140 for the rear diff but that's because i tow, otherwise you could use 75w-90 for that as well.

Coolant shouldn't be Dex crap... Zerex G-05 is the best in my opinion, it's Valvoline brand and can be bought at most Napa stores. It's the common consensus on here to use this antifreeze, and its the manufacturer spec'd type of coolant for the KJ also.

Trans fluid is ATF+4 ONLY!!!! Can't stress that enough, anything else and you will need a new transmission.

I wouldn't do anything to the fuel system, if it ain't broke don't fix it. The rule of thumb on these newer vehicles is when the fuel pump dies then you replace it and the filter as a unit. It's not like the old days with an inline fuel filter strapped to the frame somewhere.

There is a lot of good threads on here with the service info in the How-To section, just find the How-To for the item you want to do!
 

kb0nly

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I was reading this thread: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30426

Trans. is a 42RLE in the '07 correct?

Anyone using this "dipstick tool": http://www.automotivetools4less.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2774 or should I just gather a dipstick from an 05-06 once the warranty is out?

Oh and I gotta look up the transfer case info.

And while I'm at the dealer, I should grab the build sheet, too, eh?

Oh that's right, 07' doesn't have a dipstick for the trans, stupid! But that's the way it is. Yes 42RLE, check out the sticky on here that i wrote up with all the transmission filter and gasket information on that. You might want to get that tool, its worth the money having the ability to check the fluid level.

Transfer case it doesn't matter which model it is, still needs ATF+4, and a good rule of thumb there is make sure the fill plug will come out before you pull the drain plug. There has been a few cases on here where they drained it and then the fill plug was seized up and it took them a while to resolve.

Might as well grab a build sheet, never know when you might need some more info!

Oh, another note on the rear diff. If your KJ has the limited slip diff then you need the friction modifier stuff in there as well.
 

Awww KJ

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Thanks guys. I needed a bit of "bring me up to speed" since the rest of the household is non-Mopar.

I'll go 75W-90 on the rear diff. (though I might pick up a used hitch this week since our pickup is out of commission ](*,) )

I think I'll price compare a few items while I'm at the dealer just in case and then probably OReilly's them since they price match.
 

kb0nly

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Check out eTrailer if you need a hitch, free shipping on most orders and the prices are awesome. I ordered my hitch and my roof rack from them, fast shipping and great people to deal with.
 

tjkj2002

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I wouldn't do anything to the fuel system, if it ain't broke don't fix it. The rule of thumb on these newer vehicles is when the fuel pump dies then you replace it and the filter as a unit. It's not like the old days with an inline fuel filter strapped to the frame somewhere.
A fuel induction system cleaning does wonders,should be done right before a spark plug change since it will clean so much carbon out of your throttle body/intake/heads that it almost always fouls the plugs.It should be done at least once a year and you can gain 10%+ fuel economy from doing a induction system cleaning.Just throwing a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank is not the same,most fuel induction system cleanings are a 3 step process and a in-tank injector cleaner is only one of the 3 parts.The 3.7 is known for excessive carbon build up,there's even a TSB for it.Adding to much injector cleaners can and will ruin your cats also so you should not add any or have a induction cleaning done more then once or maybe at the most twice a year.


Oh and spark plugs need to be changed every 30,000miles in a KJ.
 

kb0nly

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One of these days i'm going to look into how to do that and then take care of that and toss in some new plugs. It had new plugs tossed it at 30k, and i'm at 48k now, so i will probably wait and do it next year.
 
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