Crd engine thermostats

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TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK

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Is there anyone on this forum with a Liberty CRD who is as frustrated with the design & limitation of choice with the engine thermostat as I am? Are you having trouble getting your diesel up to full operating temperature in any season other than the summer? Are you as shocked as I am to find out the price of a new thermostat from the local stealership, and that there is only temperature thermostat available?

I am talking to those of you who are not on the LOSTJEEPS.com forum as well; those of you who are LOST members there know I am trying to develop a new thermostat for the CRD models. Anyone on this forum interested in having a totally serviceable thermostat that is vastly superior to the stock one?
 

j888dth

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I purchased one from ebay it came from overseas (new). Also the kj was fitted with a VM engine. VM have there own specialist and also sell parts for the crd engine. might be worth doing search on internet for VM engines then looking on there site for local specialist.
This is there main site:- VM Motori S.p.A.
This looks like agent in Canada:- http://www.vmmotori.it/en/04/03/01/dettCentri.jsp?idCentro=190
This is on ebay today :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermosta...+Make:Jeep|Model:Cherokee&hash=item258146d61d
 
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Unclebob9

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I read about a year ago about a guy on the lostjeeps forum who was machining replacment therostate that would seperate so you could replace just the thermostat and not the housing.
Is that you? If so, I am very interested in getting one.

Thanks: Bob
 

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK

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j888dth: I am aware that there are diesel parts distributors in North America who can offer the OEM thermostat for about half of the price offered at stealerships. The problem is that they are still not serviceable - you have to purchase an entire new housing every time you need to replace one of these things, and they are only offered in one temperature, which is about 176 degrees F, which is WAY TOO LOW for North American - especially Canadian - climates. The engine does not come up to full operating temperature in cold weather, and therefore you lose fuel economy, power, and have increased problems with the pollution control system.

Unclebob9: The person with whom you are referring to is Mark Kapalczynski, and he had an excellent modification for the CRD thermostat, given the limitations the original housing provided. His design allowed for the use of a cheap replacement thermostat that has a higher opening temperature that basically cures the problem the stock OEM thermostat caused. The cap was removable, and therefore the cost of replacing the thermostat, if you were doing it yourself, would be about $20.00.

There are several problems with his design, however. The thermostat cap/water outlet he chose to use with his design is no longer widely available, and the importer will not bring in any more, as it was a part for a KIA Sephia, which ended production about 12 years ago. Adding to this is the problem of collecting old thermostat cores for modification; it is a royal pain, especially for someone doing this up here in Canada. (deadhorse)

The OEM thermostat housing has limitations in the size of replacement thermostat, and the number of studs/location of studs that can be installed. Only 2 studs can be installed and this limits the strength & integrity of the housing, although I will admit that Mark pressure tested each modified housing to 30 PSI, which is twice the normal operating pressure of modern cooling systems. The two studs would be located only where the housing is thick enough to drill & tap holes; this is why the KIA Sephia cap was used, as it happened to be the only thermostat cap/water outlet available at the time that Kapalczynski could use for his modifications.

Lastly, Mark Kapalczynski packed up his family and moved from the U.S. to Australia, with a promise to modify just enough thermostats for those CRD owners who made it on to his list in time, (and that deadline was at least 2 years ago). He only has enough parts for a limited number of modified t-stats anyway, so there is no hope of getting him to modify any more. Hey, he has done more than his fair share to help fellow CRD owners; it is now time for someone else to take over and improve upon his design.

That person is me, as I am tired of waiting for someone else to get off their butt and do something. :grd:

It is really COLD up here in Canada in the winter, and even with a winter front covering up almost all of the grill of my 2 CRD models, I can’t get the engines to come up to operating temperature except in summer. I have decided to go with a totally new & redesigned thermostat housing with removable cap CNC machined out of 6061 aluminum, and use a thermostat that I know will be produced for at least the next 20 years, so there will be no problem with supply. The new thermostat will be pressure tested to at least 100 PSI, so the safety margins for this unit will be V-E-R-Y H-I-G-H. The unit will look WAY BETTER than the old unit, and may even have a logo machined into it.

The cost of this unit will be high, but it WILL BE the last one you ever need. Replacement thermostats will be about $25.00, and will provide for no less than 2 higher opening temperatures and offer a higher rate of flow, for those of you worried about overheating while towing. :happy107:
 

CarFanatic02

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Turbo-diesel-freak, Very interested in your thermostat. Are you finished and ready to sell? If so please email me because my crd is running to cool and I think it's affecting my mpg.
 

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK

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Turbo-diesel-freak, Very interested in your thermostat. Are you finished and ready to sell? If so please email me because my crd is running to cool and I think it's affecting my mpg.

You can be sure that if the temperature gauge in your CRD is not pointing straight up, the engine is not running at optimum temperature. You are therefore losing power, fuel economy, and are likely causing problems with your pollution control system, (check engine light eventually comes on, a great deal of power loss, and a code that reads P0299 - turbo underboost).

I have accumulated the money necessary to develop a new liberty thermostat housing with a removable cap that uses the thermostats from the Chrysler Hemi V-8 series of engines. The housing and cap will be machined from a solid block of aluminum and will be far superior to the OEM unit. Purchasers of this thermostat housing can expect top-notch quality, and will be able to use either the 190 degree or the 205 degree thermostat available for the Hemi engines.

There remains some research to be done regarding the fitting that must be purchased for the overflow tube/tank... I am trying to determine if the metal in the fitting will adversely react with the HOAT coolant that is used in the Liberty CRD. I do not want to have that fitting corrode, and therefore weaken and leave nasty deposits in the coolant. I expect to get an answer in a few days, and then I can finally go ahead with the building of 6 prototypes.
 

brando26

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ridiculously interested in this. mine only points about 11 o clock. 1/4 way up. this is a highway KJ CRD and needs all the mpg it can get.
 

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK

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Thank you for your replies so far. This morning I just met with the guy at the machine shop who is going to create the CAD schematic for the thermostat housing. He says that it should not be difficult to design what I am looking for in a proper t-stat housing.

This machine shop is trying to work my project in with other jobs that they have to do; so even the schematic will take some time; please have patience, folks. :3681700201_eef6d1e2:3681700201_eef6d1e2

Jeff
 

brando26

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I have a machine shop as well. If yours are too busy I can talk to mine. Also want to make some front shackle mounts.

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TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK

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brando26 wrote:
"I have a machine shop as well. If yours are too busy I can talk to mine. Also want to make some front shackle mounts."

I think I have the situation handled now, thank you for offering, though. :favorites13:

What about these front shackle mounts? I am a little ignorant on the subject, so please enlighten me... what else needs to be upgraded in our Libertys? :hmm:
 

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK

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Hello People:

This is an update for those of you waiting for a new designed thermostat; I posted the following on the LOSTJEEPS.com web site; here is the direct link...

LOST JEEPS • View topic - MACHINE SHOP INTERESTED IN KAPALCZYNSKI'S T-STAT MODS!


O.K. People:

We are very close to producing several prototypes, but there are still some details to be worked out...

...namely, the EXACT INSIDE DIAMETER SIZE OF THE HOSES THAT ATTACH TO THE BYPASS CIRCUIT HOSE BARBS IN THE OEM THERMOSTAT HOUSING. If there is anyone who has removed/replaced the engine thermostats on CRD engines and knows for sure the exact size of BOTH of the hoses please reply to this thread. Until now, I have not needed to remove or replace the thermostats in either CRD that the family owns, and I am not about to do it right now. I have no indoor place to work on the vehicles, and it is very cold right now; I am not freezing simply to find out something that one of you probable already knows.

While the bypass hoses look the same on the outside, the I.D. may be different due to the fact that there is a slight variation in the size of the OEM bypass circuit hose barbs. The plastic hose barb is slightly smaller than the aluminum one below it, (formed as part of the casting of the t-stat housing). We want to manufacture the new housing so that it is easy to install and that you people do not have trouble sliding the bypass hoses over the barbs of the new thermostat housing.

So what is the fuss, you might ask? Why don't I simply copy exactly the dimensions of the OEM bypass circuit hose barbs? There are several reasons, as follows...

1) We are trying to source hose barbs from elsewhere, rather than machine them ourselves, because it will be quite a bit less expensive to do so. None of the hose barbs I have seen have been exactly the same size as the ones on the OEM housing, and I therefore need to know the exact inside diameter of the bypass circuit hoses in order to know what outside source hose barbs I can choose from.

2) I have been informed/advised from the very same engineer at Stant Corporation that recommended the Hemi V8 series thermostat for my project to increase flow rate of the engine coolant in the new thermostat housing. Essentially, if we are to increase engine temperature through the use of a hotter thermostat, (in the case of the Hemi V8 t-stats, we have a choice of 190 or 205 degree thermostats), we should engineer in a higher flow rate in the housing to guard against the engine getting too hot. It was for this reason, (and for the fact that the Hemi V8 t-stats are going to be produced for at least another 20 years), that my contact at Stant recommended the Hemi V8 t-stats in the first place as they are much larger than the OEM t-stats; when they finally do open up, they will flow a significant amount more coolant than the OEM ones. This means that I would ideally like to have hose barbs with larger interior diameters than the stock ones. The I.D. of both of the OEM bypass circuit hose barbs is about 0.47 inch: would like to see in the new housing an I.D. of the bypass circuit hose barbs be at least 0.50 or even 0.525 inch. In order to accomplish all of this we need to know the I.D. of the hoses. If, for example, both the hoses from the bypass circuit are the same size we know for certain that we can find - or machine if we have to - a hose barb that matches the larger OEM one, and this will therefore allow us to have a larger hose barb I.D. for the new housing.

If anyone can help me with this, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff
Tel: 1-780-434-2324
Mobile: 1-780-844-0135
 

brando26

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I just put an inline thermostat in with an aluminum housing. Omg what an amazing difference. Its actually warm inside the jeep now. It had been running at about 1/4 on the temp gauge, sometimes less. It was freezing inside even with the heat on. Now it sit just a hair below 1/2 feels great inside and im sure its running better. It feels like it wants to go now and actually moves when idle with foot off the break. I didnt remove my oem thermostat or I would have got the measurements for you. Maybe someone has an old one laying around...

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bobang1973

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I am also interested in the new designed thermostat housing. I live in Maine and the temp gauge does not go above 9:00 in the winter and of course the mileage drops 25%.
 

Driftless

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I installed a Fia winter front on the Liberty and it has helped a bit. However, the temperature gauge still barely climbs above the first hash mark. I am ready to be a guinea pig for your design.
 

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK

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O.K. People:

I have gone about as far as I can with the thermostat project, and have created first and second generation prototypes that work flawlessly under all conditions. :party36::party36:

My main problem is that my production costs are really high, to the point that the cost to produce a new housing and removable cap is around $240.00 - $245.00. When you add in the costs for hardware, (stainless steel studs, stainless steel socket head cap screws, a gasket, the thermostat itself, ss nuts, ss lock washers, ss flat washers, 2 custom made hose barbs, and the 90 degree hose barb), the cost for this thermostat unit - assembled - is just about $325.00 each. This does not factor in the money I spent to develop this thermostat, which is very close to $9000.00 now, or my own sweat equity, which is now in the hundreds of hours if time spent on this project.

To recover my costs alone for this project, I am going to have to charge $450.00 USD for each assembled thermostat, not including shipping. :shrug:
This could change if I can find a machine shop through one of you who could perform this work at a significantly lower cost, either through a lower rate per hour, or a higher capacity CNC machine, or a combination of the two factors.

If anyone has some solutions to this issue, I welcome their responses.

Jeff Bauer
Tel: 1-780-434-2324
Mobile: 1-780-844-0135
 

uss2defiant

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click on the person's username on the post.
A drop down menu will appear and you'll see the option to do so.
 

Snail Farmer

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O.K. People:

I have gone about as far as I can with the thermostat project, and have created first and second generation prototypes that work flawlessly under all conditions. :party36::party36:

My main problem is that my production costs are really high, to the point that the cost to produce a new housing and removable cap is around $240.00 - $245.00. When you add in the costs for hardware, (stainless steel studs, stainless steel socket head cap screws, a gasket, the thermostat itself, ss nuts, ss lock washers, ss flat washers, 2 custom made hose barbs, and the 90 degree hose barb), the cost for this thermostat unit - assembled - is just about $325.00 each. This does not factor in the money I spent to develop this thermostat, which is very close to $9000.00 now, or my own sweat equity, which is now in the hundreds of hours if time spent on this project.

To recover my costs alone for this project, I am going to have to charge $450.00 USD for each assembled thermostat, not including shipping. :shrug:
This could change if I can find a machine shop through one of you who could perform this work at a significantly lower cost, either through a lower rate per hour, or a higher capacity CNC machine, or a combination of the two factors.

If anyone has some solutions to this issue, I welcome their responses.

Jeff Bauer
Tel: 1-780-434-2324
Mobile: 1-780-844-0135
What kind of volume are you thinking and how often are you expecting to need production runs?
 

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