Clevis not aligning with LCA bushing

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NoVA_KJ

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I'm installing my left/driver's side front suspension right now and my clevis isn't aligning with the LCA bushing (see pic). I'd have to twist the clevis counter clockwise enough that I overlap the indexing slot on the bottom of the strut assembly. Had a similar issue with the right side and I confirmed that all the parts are on the correct side of the Jeep. Anyone else have similar alignment issues (all parts are Moog problem solver)? Just want some peace of mind that this is normal and I'm not messing anything up.
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tommudd

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Not normal
springs/ shocks were not compressed correctly / in the right way when they were compressed and top nut installed
whoever did them for you did not know how to install correctly
 

NoVA_KJ

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Is there anyone in the DMV that knows how to assemble this correctly? I'm in a serious bind as this is my daily driver and I need it for work
 

duderz7

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Am I missing something or can you not just loosen the clevis on the shock and rotate it inro alignment. The picture doesn't show the whole picture...if that makes sense.
 

tommudd

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Am I missing something or can you not just loosen the clevis on the shock and rotate it inro alignment. The picture doesn't show the whole picture...if that makes sense.
There is a ridge , ( raised area on the bottom portion of the shock) from top to bottom of the lower part that goes into the clevis
That raised area has to be in the right location in order to align with the clevis open area so its sits correctly
Now I would never do it but I know of one guy who just used a grinder to cut that off , but again I would never advise doing that

I have installed two stock type systems in the past and both had to be turned somewhat
( of course both were removed one in a week, another in a month ) to do a set of proper springs and shocks
8-10 years later still have both setups laying around LOL
 

duderz7

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Got it, must be a stock type shock thing, pretty sure my bilstein are smooth all the way around. Seems like one could mount the top, then use a pry bar in the fork and give it a twist, maybe squirt some Wd40 on the isolators to help em slide?
 

tommudd

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Got it, must be a stock type shock thing, pretty sure my bilstein are smooth all the way around. Seems like one could mount the top, then use a pry bar in the fork and give it a twist, maybe squirt some Wd40 on the isolators to help em slide?
Been tried , with a 4 foot cheater bar LOL
OME has them, forget if Bilstein does or not
stock , OEM also does
 

NoVA_KJ

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I got the right side to fit by twisting over the ridge with some persuasion before starting this thread. Could probably do the same on the left side. After inspecting both struts, it looks like the springs are properly seated. I guess the mount bearing plate wasn't rotated properly? If it's safe enough to twist in place, I'll just do that and save the headache. I need this rig back on the road ASAP.
 
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tommudd

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Not the right way to do it but,................
putting extra tension on them
The bottom plate that the lower iso sits on has a raised V and that holds the lower iso in place and also where the bottom of the spring rests
so forcing it into position will more than likely cause extra wear on the lower iso with added pressure from the shock not really sitting where it should be
But its yours; so do whatever trips your trigger
 

NoVA_KJ

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When I twist it in place, I'm just overlapping that ridge with the clevis and nothing else moves. I think you mentioned previously that some brands don't have an index for the clevis at all. So, if I grind it down and just align the clevis to the LCA bushing, will that cause excessive wear to the strut? I just want to make sure I'm understanding what you said as I want to do this right.
 

runfor5

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@NoVA_KJ Hi from Nova! You might try Exline Automotive down in Springfield. They have an off-road team or what not and I know do lift kits etc. on trucks. May have some experience with this. I have taken my Liberty there for an exhaust weld and plastic soldering of my top-portion of the no-longer-made fuel pump assembly on my '04. Not related to your issue, just suggesting one of the few shops I've ever gone to (do my own work) and been satisfied with.
 

NoVA_KJ

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@NoVA_KJ Hi from Nova! You might try Exline Automotive down in Springfield. They have an off-road team or what not and I know do lift kits etc. on trucks. May have some experience with this. I have taken my Liberty there for an exhaust weld and plastic soldering of my top-portion of the no-longer-made fuel pump assembly on my '04. Not related to your issue, just suggesting one of the few shops I've ever gone to (do my own work) and been satisfied with.
Thanks! I'll give them a call tomorrow
 

tommudd

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When I twist it in place, I'm just overlapping that ridge with the clevis and nothing else moves. I think you mentioned previously that some brands don't have an index for the clevis at all. So, if I grind it down and just align the clevis to the LCA bushing, will that cause excessive wear to the strut? I just want to make sure I'm understanding what you said as I want to do this right.
DO NOT GRIND
if you're overlapping the ridge then placing more stress on the clevis
But again do whatever you want, you'll be replacing soon anyways
 

NoVA_KJ

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I got another pair of struts and they fit like a glove. Almost done with the rebuild now. Just started torquing down the left side. Still waiting to hear back from Moog. Gonna return the other ones for a full refund.
 
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NoVA_KJ

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Here we go. Not quite done yet. The upper ball joint nut that came with the Mevotech UCAs are much bigger than stock and I don't have the socket for it. Otherwise, all done. Just need to bleed the brakes once I finish up the other corners.

Thanks to @tommudd and YouTube for a successful first time rebuilding my entire suspension.
 

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tommudd

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Here we go. Not quite done yet. The upper ball joint nut that came with the Mevotech UCAs are much bigger than stock and I don't have the socket for it. Otherwise, all done. Just need to bleed the brakes once I finish up the other corners.

Thanks to @tommudd and YouTube for a successful first time rebuilding my entire suspension.
Bleed the brakes ?? Why there was no need to disconnect the brake lines when doing a spring/shock replacement
 

NoVA_KJ

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Bleed the brakes ?? Why there was no need to disconnect the brake lines when doing a spring/shock replacement
I upgraded to SS hoses and restored the calipers too. Also, wasn't just a spring/shock replacement. My entire suspension is brand new, front and back.
 

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