Broken spark plug.

[eyehatetofu]

I was changing out the spark plugs on the Liberty and when removing one of them the plug snapped and broke, leaving the threaded end, minus the metal hex collar, in the sparkplug hole. Anyone know how to get this outta there? I have done a little google-in', and it doesn't seem like a bolt extractor or something similar would work well in this situation. Any advice or tips would be helpful. Thanks.

Pic of broken plug and a not broken plug.

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[LibertyTC]

Are you left with white insulator stuck in hole?
A thin handle magnet should be able to get that out, if the top of insulator exposed.
If you are left with only the threaded end, a long extended drill with a bolts type extractor is my next guess. Just make sure you use compressed air along the way to get bits and pieces out before opening hole.
You could ask for advice from a local head/machine shop and see what they recommend, just a thought...bummer situation..good luck..lets us know what happens!

 

[Minimike]

I have had this happen once before. I was able to get it out using a left handed drill bit. Once the bit cut into the threaded part of the spark plug it loosened it and screwed out without using an extractor.

 

[LibertyTC]

you posted a pic after my last reply...
wow ...who makes that plug, Is that a NGK?
How long were those plugs in there for? Did you use anti-seize on threads?
Ya your going to need left drill or extractor.

 

[eyehatetofu]

I have had this happen once before. I was able to get it out using a left handed drill bit. Once the bit cut into the threaded part of the spark plug it loosened it and screwed out without using an extractor.

Just looked those up on google. Seems like that should do the job. Will have to go looking for them tomorrow when the stores open back up. Might go to 24hr Wally World and see if they have something like that.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[eyehatetofu]

wow ...who makes that plug, I will be sure never to buy them!

They were the stock NKG's. I was a little over due to change them; they have about 40K miles on them.

 

[Minimike]

No problems. the kit I have was from Mac tools.... Not sure if wally would have it or not, I hope they do. Good luck with the extracting!

 

[tjkj2002]

Typical NGK plugs.They cost my buddy a $60,000 engine using NGK's,NGK bought him a new engine and then he told them to take a dive off the grand canyon as far as sponsership.

 

[k99jk99j]

google ford 5.4l spark plug extraction 2004-2008. ford has the same thing happen in that motor and makes a special tool to get the remainder of the plug out! mike

 

[LibertyTC]

I would be taking that photo and send it to NGK and ask them wtf.gif gives with that plug malfunction.
Troy states typical NHK..scarry really.
Do other manufacturers have this problem?
Is this a problem because anti-seize was not used on threads?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

All I can think of is the pieces/parts that might fall into the cylinder and then...:death:

Yea, send that pic to NGK to protect yourself. And while you're extracting what remains of that plug use a shop-vac or similar to suck up the chunks while you're using the left-hand drill. Don't want to read your next post wondering what the sound is coming from inside your engine block. :freak3:

Bob

 

[Downtown]

I found this vid on youtube -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m85Zl1z5Y-k

Like these guys are saying - Easy Out or left handed drill bit can produce shavings that can fall into your cylinder. Be careful!! (deadhorse)

 

[eyehatetofu]

Is this a problem because anti-seize was not used on threads?

Not sure. These are the original plugs. I don't believe the factory uses ant-seize.

 

[tjkj2002]

Is this a problem because anti-seize was not used on threads?

Not sure. These are the original plugs. I don't believe the factory uses ant-seize.

Anti-seize is not needed or recommended.People state that the engine must be stone cold due to alloy heads,not entirely true on most alloy head engines.It is okay to remove the plugs if the cylinder head(plug area) is 130 degrees or less.The once example that the engine must be stone cold is some Ford 4.6/5.4 3 valve engines with the long shank plugs,there is a 22 page TSB about it and if you follow it to the "T" and one of the plugs breaks and you stop there Ford will fix for free.Break a 2nd plug and it's your dime at $1700 per head.

Oh and to clarify my buddy was sponsered by NGK running custom made plugs for his engine by NGK.One of the plugs decided to to come apart at 7500 rpm's on the 3rd stage of his NOS system(600hp shot).

 

[Dave]

Never saw that happen before.......crap. Real easy with the easy out......let us know.

Dave

 

[LibertyTC]

I always use a sniff of anti-seize on threads. Why Troy "not recommended" ???
Would this plug not have been damaged as it was in there too tight, and probably came out undamaged if anti-seize was used?

 

[tjkj2002]

I always use a sniff of anti-seize on threads. Why Troy "not recommended" ???
Would this plug not have been damaged as it was in there too tight, and probably came out undamaged if anti-seize was used?

It changes the torque value,and again that torque value is for dry threads.Over-torquing the plugs will cause that damage seen in the OP pics.

 

[tommudd]

I've never used anti seize and have swapped the plugs on mine 7 times, not a problem. As Troy mentioned here and many times before it messes up the torque and gives false readings

 

[Dave]

It changes the torque value,and again that torque value is for dry threads.Over-torquing the plugs will cause that damage seen in the OP pics.

I thought tofu said they were the factory plugs. When I took the factory plugs out of mine they were torqued in by some gorilla in Toledo I swear. You're only supposed to put them in hand tight + 1/4 turn. I have put plugs in with a little bit of anti-seize and also put them in dry. I have never had a problem either way with plugs I put in myself. I never saw one break like the one tofu had and I hope he gets it out ok. I have changed a lot of plugs in different vehicles over the years but I am not a professional mechanic..I am sure you guys have changed more than I have.

Dave

 

[tjkj2002]

I thought tofu said they were the factory plugs. When I took the factory plugs out of mine they were torqued in by some gorilla in Toledo I swear. You're only supposed to put them in hand tight + 1/4 turn. I have put plugs in with a little bit of anti-seize and also put them in dry. I have never had a problem either way with plugs I put in myself. I never saw one break like the one tofu had and I hope he gets it out ok. I have changed a lot of plugs in different vehicles over the years but I am not a professional mechanic..I am sure you guys have changed more than I have.

Dave

15lbs-ft of torque,no less and no more on clean/dry threads.