Best AC Delete thread/guide/method?

[GitEmSteveDave]

So the other day I was in traffic and thought I heard my coolant bubbling. But as soon as I got to my destination, and turned the engine off, the sound stopped, so I knew it wasn't that. Popped the hood and traced the noise to the AC compressor.

Took it to my mechanic, and he felt around and said it's the compressor and might be the clutch overheated due to it's color, but he doesn't do AC's. He also said now is the worst time to have it replaced because I won't be using it till probably next May, so that's 7 months that I won't detect any problem or leak, so most places won't want to fix it then.

But it's starting to get louder, so I need to do something before it seizes and I'm stuck. So I want to just bypass it for now. I've watched some videos on youtube and seen plenty of threads on here and other sites and just want to know if there is a "definitive" guide as everyone seems to have a different "flavor" of bypass. I want to keep the compressor on the engine, so I can get it replaced next year, but I have seen some people pull the pulley and others unbolt the compressor somewhere so it kind of lifts out of the way. What belt will I need? I think it's 82.5" 6 rib, but is there a NAPA PN# that I can just order so I know it's the right one?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Aceofspades]

Could you just replace the compressor with a new one and get it charged next season ?

 

[GitEmSteveDave]

Could you just replace the compressor with a new one and get it charged next season ?

Wouldn't I lose the charge that's in it right now?

 

[lfhoward]

Wouldn't I lose the charge that's in it right now?

You would need to get the AC system evacuated at a shop first (not too expensive), but then you could put on a new compressor yourself.

Alternatively, depending on whether it would solve your issue, you could replace the compressor clutch without having to remove the compressor or evacuate the refrigerant. I don’t know if the bearings that want to seize up are inside your AC compressor or just associated with the clutch where the fan belt attaches.

 

[GitEmSteveDave]

You would need to get the AC system evacuated at a shop first (not too expensive), but then you could put on a new compressor yourself.

Alternatively, depending on whether it would solve your issue, you could replace the compressor clutch without having to remove the compressor or evacuate the refrigerant. I don’t know if the bearings that want to seize up are inside your AC compressor or just associated with the clutch where the fan belt attaches.

So wait, if I knew someone who was licensed/worked with residential/business AC, could they perform that task? I know my old landlord did AC and has that thing with all the tubes and gauges on it, as we would have him come out every 2-3 years to check our house AC unit outisde. But he's back home/on vacation in Spain for the next at least month(he's retired).

I don't think it's the clutch, as I turned the AC on while at the mechanic so he could check where the noise was coming from, and it was spinning while the noise was going on. But I was thinking of dropping it off Monday with a belt and some pictures of the new routing I found online and seeing if he could pop the clutch and pulley off, so I wouldn't have to try to rotate it out of the way, and that way I could see if maybe it's the bearing on the pulley and just get that replaced. I don't have that many tools at my disposal right now, so it's worth it to me if he can pull all that stuff off.

 

[GitEmSteveDave]

So does anyone know the proper belt for the delete?

I walked into NAPA and told them I needed 82.5 6 rib, and they gave me NBH 25060819, which is

Effective Length	81.96 in
Outside Circumference	82.65 in

From this site, I have NBH 25060827

Effective Length	82.72 in
Outside Circumference	83.42 in

as well as

NBH 25060837

Effective Length	83.68 in
Outside Circumference	84.41 in

And maybe this is for a different set up, but I saw it under a AC bypass post, NBH 25050658

Effective Length	65.83 in
Outside Circumference	66.5 in

I don't want to buy them all, b/c that's over $150 in belts.

 

[GitEmSteveDave]

OK, so I did the bypass yesterday b/c the pully was smoking the day before(I poured a little water on the belt on top of the pulley and it boiled right off). Went with a Duralast 827k6 belt.

I didn't take many photos because I was doing this in a parking lot and once I got to the pulley removal, I didn't have the tools I needed and was trying to improvise.

As soon as I got the clutch plate off, I knew I found the problem.

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I didn't have any prybars with me, but luckily I had the lug wrench from my old Dodge, so I was able to use the pointed end, an adjustable wrench, and some teflon oil to work it off. Bearing was def bad.

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That was as far as I got b/c the Snap ring pliers I got at Harbor Freight were not letting me get to the snap ring that holds the clutch in place. So I pulled the bolt by the alternator, the one in the rear & loosened the other front one and pivoted the compressor towards the passenger side. I then slid the front bolt back in place so that the compressor couldn't pivot back down past it's mount and re-tightened the one on the passenger side. Put the belt on, and had at least 1/2" clearance between the clutch and the belt.

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Cleaned up all my tools and let her rip:

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I'm gonna hit up some autoparts stores that loan out tools and hopefully I can find one with snap ring pliers able to pull the clutch ring, so I can put the compressor back where it belongs.

Thanks everyone for their help!

 

[lfhoward]

Nice work!