best 2.8 CRD mods???

[turblediesel]

I've lurked and seached the forums and I'm wondering what engine mods CRD folks have settled on as the best to use.

Anyone here blocked their egr completely with a plate?

Anyone with a 2.8 CRD ever make it to a second timing belt without needing major engine work?

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Best CRD modifications...

I've lurked and seached the forums and I'm wondering what engine mods CRD folks have settled on as the best to use.

Anyone here blocked their egr completely with a plate?

Anyone with a 2.8 CRD ever make it to a second timing belt without needing major engine work?

#1) The tune of your choice from Green Diesel Engineering.

#1A) If you get the GDE tune, an upgrade to the torque converter is highly recommended. Either a Suncoast converter or the European Spec torque converter will do. If you are going to get the GDE Hot Tune or the replacement turbo kit, you may be further ahead in rebuilding the entire transmission with an upgrade kit. I do not know for sure myself, but some people are recommending the following company for a stage II or stage III 545RFE transmission, which is the automatic that is in your CRD...

SharaDon Performance Website: http://www.sharadonperformance.com/

#2) My thermostat... the Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001. You simply are not getting all of the efficiency, power and reliability the engine is capable of if the engine is not running hot enough.

#3) If you are in a cold climate, install an engine pre-heater like a Webasto TSL-17. Mount it into an aftermarket front bumper like the one from ARB. The TSL-17 is designed to warm up commercial engines up to 15 Litres of capacity, so it is going to have no problem with the little 2.8L 4 cylinder in the CRD. It is thermostatically controlled so it will not overheat your engine, and I believe it will heat to about 170 degrees Fahrenheit. This is an expensive mod, but well worth it because you will NEVER have to idle your engine to warm it up again. It is never a good idea anyway for a diesel engine to idle for warm-up unless you can control your idle speed as the idling simply fouls up your engine oil. With a TSL-17 properly installed and fired up, your CRD will start like it was in the heat of summer even if it is -40 degrees outside.

#4) If you decide on the Webasto, you will have to drop the fuel tank to install the diesel fuel suction line. You should also put in a lift pump at the same time for positive fuel pressure to your fuel filter head.

#5) Custom stainless steel exhaust, from the turbo back.

#6) DO NOT BLOCK OFF THE EGR... THE GREEN DIESEL ENGINEERING TUNES SHUT DOWN THE POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM THROUGH THE COMPUTER, SO BLOCKING OFF THE EGR IS UNNECESSARY, AND CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE TURBOCHARGER IF SURGING OCCURS. Keith at GDE discovered a program in the ECU that briefly opens the EGR during driving conditions that can cause turbocharger surge, relieving the intake of excess pressure. YOU SHOULD KEEP THIS FUNCTION TO PROTECT YOUR TURBO. Admittedly, this condition is rare, but why take the chance if the EGR is shut down most of the time anyway? Turbo surge can destroy a turbo if it is not dealt with properly. Turbo surge is more frequent the higher the boost pressure of the turbo, so turbo surge is even more prevalent if you decide to go with the replacement turbo kit from GDE.

 

[turblediesel]

Thanks for the info and encouragement. New plan is to give the egr a cleaning and let it live.

 

[Hechicero]

#1A) If you get the GDE tune, an upgrade to the torque converter is highly recommended.

for all type of GDE tune?

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

for all type of GDE tune?

I am sure that shutting the pollution control down is a part of all of the GDE Tunes, but it is probably best to speak to a staff member at GDE. If you want it straight from the horse's mouth, you can contact Green
Diesel Engineering through their website...

Green Diesel Engineering

 

[turblediesel]

GDE has several tunes. The full torque tune calls for a better torque converter and a transmission tune and transmission kit.
I think they want a better torque converter for the Hot tune.
The eco tune seems to be the pick for stock parts.

I could be wrong..
Their website didn't work well on my phone and my phone company hung up on Matt at GDE who was great to talk to in spite of the "Rocker Arms Blues" song he was singing to me. It's a CRD thing. Those guys know all those tunes and I'm just learning them.

Jeep Chrysler Daimler Dodge Benz Fiat should pony up for rocker arms, cams, glow plugs, tunes... I'm not holding my breath.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

They should also be buying proper engine thermostats for their CRD customers as well!! Chrysler and V.M. Motori were complete idiots for missing something as fundamental as getting the running engine temperature correct.

Running at 176 degrees Fahrenheit, (this is the opening temperature of the O.E. thermostat assembly as described in the factory service manual), is simply way too cool for this engine and a mistake a first year engineering student would be embarrassed to make.

 

[thedow27]

crd thermostat

What should the optimum operating coolant temp be? I have been getting mixed answers.

 

[MM53]

look at wwwlostjeep.com love that torque will answer all your questions

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Hot diesel solutions model 001 engine thermostat assembly

What should the optimum operating coolant temp be? I have been getting mixed answers.

I recommend getting the hottest engine thermostat valve available to use in the H.D.S. Model 001, and that is a 203 degree Fahrenheit valve. The Model 001 uses Hemi thermostat valves -- available anywhere and are inexpensive to purchase. Unless you are towing heavy loads in extremely hot conditions, the 203 degree valve is the way to go.

Contact me if you want further information on the Model 001, or visit the following thread...

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f228/crd-engine-thermostats-54293/

 

[mass-hole]

#1) The tune of your choice from Green Diesel Engineering.

#1A) If you get the GDE tune, an upgrade to the torque converter is highly recommended. Either a Suncoast converter or the European Spec torque converter will do. If you are going to get the GDE Hot Tune or the replacement turbo kit, you may be further ahead in rebuilding the entire transmission with an upgrade kit. I do not know for sure myself, but some people are recommending the following company for a stage II or stage III 545RFE transmission, which is the automatic that is in your CRD...

SharaDon Performance Website: Home - SharaDon Performance

#2) My thermostat... the Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001. You simply are not getting all of the efficiency, power and reliability the engine is capable of if the engine is not running hot enough.

#3) If you are in a cold climate, install an engine pre-heater like a Webasto TSL-17. Mount it into an aftermarket front bumper like the one from ARB. The TSL-17 is designed to warm up commercial engines up to 15 Litres of capacity, so it is going to have no problem with the little 2.8L 4 cylinder in the CRD. It is thermostatically controlled so it will not overheat your engine, and I believe it will heat to about 170 degrees Fahrenheit. This is an expensive mod, but well worth it because you will NEVER have to idle your engine to warm it up again. It is never a good idea anyway for a diesel engine to idle for warm-up unless you can control your idle speed as the idling simply fouls up your engine oil. With a TSL-17 properly installed and fired up, your CRD will start like it was in the heat of summer even if it is -40 degrees outside.

#4) If you decide on the Webasto, you will have to drop the fuel tank to install the diesel fuel suction line. You should also put in a lift pump at the same time for positive fuel pressure to your fuel filter head.

#5) Custom stainless steel exhaust, from the turbo back.

#6) DO NOT BLOCK OFF THE EGR... THE GREEN DIESEL ENGINEERING TUNES SHUT DOWN THE POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM THROUGH THE COMPUTER, SO BLOCKING OFF THE EGR IS UNNECESSARY, AND CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE TURBOCHARGER IF SURGING OCCURS. Keith at GDE discovered a program in the ECU that briefly opens the EGR during driving conditions that can cause turbocharger surge, relieving the intake of excess pressure. YOU SHOULD KEEP THIS FUNCTION TO PROTECT YOUR TURBO. Admittedly, this condition is rare, but why take the chance if the EGR is shut down most of the time anyway? Turbo surge can destroy a turbo if it is not dealt with properly. Turbo surge is more frequent the higher the boost pressure of the turbo, so turbo surge is even more prevalent if you decide to go with the replacement turbo kit from GDE.

GDE has several tunes. The full torque tune calls for a better torque converter and a transmission tune and transmission kit.
I think they want a better torque converter for the Hot tune.
The eco tune seems to be the pick for stock parts.

I could be wrong..
Their website didn't work well on my phone and my phone company hung up on Matt at GDE who was great to talk to in spite of the "Rocker Arms Blues" song he was singing to me. It's a CRD thing. Those guys know all those tunes and I'm just learning them.

Jeep Chrysler Daimler Dodge Benz Fiat should pony up for rocker arms, cams, glow plugs, tunes... I'm not holding my breath.

GDE Tune for sure. Its a huge mpg improvement as well as power.

With regards to the Torque converter, you should get the tune and see how your jeep reacts. I have GDE's hot tune and havent done a thing to my TC and have only experienced shutter a few times when towing ~5000 lbs. I have zero issues otherwise. Additionally, if you do decide to go with a new TC, consider the stock hemi ram converter. The Hemi ram converter has a lower stall speed so it will feel "tighter" than the stock converter when unlocked. The stock TC and the Euro TC are the same in this regard and are very sloppy in my eyes so while the Euro TC will solve the reliability/shutter issues, it wont improve the feeling. Suncoast's Jeep TC is apparently just a modded Ram TC so it also has a lower stall but is generally considered overkill for our little engines. It is the best option but is also 2-3x the price. The stock hemi TC should have no issues working with our jeep as they are designed to be behind a much more powerful motor(390hp/407 ft-lbs) in a heavier truck. Even a GDE hot tuned or turbo kitted liberty is making less torque than the stock ram and WAY less horsepower.

Weird suggestion, but if your suspension is old I would highly suggest a OME lift with the heavy duty springs and their sport shocks. Even running on bigger tires and 2.5" lift(probably 4" higher total) my jeep rides INFINITELY better than it ever did stock. A lot more stable braking and turning and much smoother despite having stiffer springs. I would imagine if you just do the standard 1.5" OME lift on stockish tires, and dont put any extra lift spacers in like I did, It would ride even better than mine does.

 

[jeepman1946]

I've lurked and seached the forums and I'm wondering what engine mods CRD folks have settled on as the best to use.

Anyone here blocked their egr completely with a plate?

Anyone with a 2.8 CRD ever make it to a second timing belt without needing major engine work?

My 2005 Liberty CRD now has 275,000 miles on it. Still has the factory lift pump, turbo, injectors, glow plugs. I replaced some hoses that looked weather checked. I buy biodiesel when I can which is about 85% of the time. I'm certain it has provided lubrication protection for all the parts. I also add Howes treatment every fill up in winter and every other fill up in summer.
I have been changing oil and filter every 5,000 miles since I bought it new. I have been using Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic oil. I fill the new filter with oil and let it soak while waiting for last bit of oil to drain.
I chickened out and took it to dealer both times for the timing belt. I wanted to see that belt on the second change at 110,000 miles. It did not look bad at all. But, ignoring that belt could result in major damage if it breaks. Pistons will hit the valves then you have a big repair bill. The first timing belt change cost me $1,100 at Jeep dealer. Second one about six years ago cost $1,400. I had them do the water pump too. It sits at the back of the engine and cannot be replaced without pulling everything off the front. I think the water pump was about $200 but I'm a Chrysler employee so I get a discount.
I changed trans fluid and filter at about 50,000 miles, one time it went to 80,000 it still looked good, no shavings in pan fluid was still red.
I have not modified or "tuned" the engine.
The torque convertor quit locking up just before it ran out of warranty at 35,000 miles. The dealer removed the trans and did a deep clean on it because the torque convertor evidently dumped some debris and it got in the trans. I got a newer updated TC for that and it seems to be a good one. I often pull a heavy trailer 150 miles one way to a campground for our scout unit.

Oops, just remembered, the transfer case started leaking oil at about 200,000 miles. Couldn't see any damage, just started leaking. It still worked but of course a leak is not good. Got a good used one at salvage yard and had a shop put all new bearings and change it for me. I should take the old one to a shop and have them weld up the leak and save it. Mine had the selec trac with the all wheel drive option. I made certain the CRD had that before I bought it. It was at a dealer 150 miles away and a year old when I sent out the search for it. I ordered the selec trac when I bought a 1998 Cherokee. That is really nice, when there is partial snow and bare pavement you can set it and forget it. No need to switch in and out.
As long as the Liberty doesn't rust apart I plan to keep fixing it tilll I'm too old to drive.

The block heater died about two years ago, There is a lot of rust up in that area it looks like a person might do a lot of damage to other parts to get at it so I just do without. If ever the engine has to come out, I'll replace it then. I live in WI, lots of salt on the roads, wish they didn't have to use salt.

 

[Jrlh]

It seems some of these units just did their job day in and day out with no issues, some did not. Ours was like that. Bought it with 95k. Just buried it with 350k. Nothing but brakes, tires, oil changes, and 100k timing belt changes w/water pump. I kept it and may go through it to see what finally failed (timing belt is wadded up in bottom of cover, was replaces 9k ago) So I take it that probably faulty tensioner, or pully gave way.

Just bought another with ALL the upgrades, TC, Rockers, head gasket, lift pump, turbo, GDE Tune, exhaust, Webasto TSL-17 coolant heater, ect. not yet at 200k. so we will see how tis one does!